MTFCA Forum

I'll say this: Once you get your magnet hight set take your time with the gap between the Mag ring and the magnets. Getting this gap correct will give you more power, make the T run better, and some say solve world peace. I had my fly wheel on and off the engine many times as I sliced shims to get i...

varmint wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 19, 2026 9:23 am
If you were actually successful in moving the pitman arm up the steering shaft that far (I'm not suggesting either, that you should or should not), would the castellated nut still align with the cotter pin.

Not sure just yet. I don't think I'll have to move it that much to get it tight.

Thanks everyone. I'm going to take a look at the Quadrant and see if it's already bent down causing the rod to be lower. I think the issue with the bracket on the firewall will sort itself out. If I put it on the engine side it may make the pitman arm too far forward and not line up with the drag li...

Looking at your pictures in a previous post, I think your clearance problem is that you have your steering column installed wrong. I have run into that problem myself a couple of times. You have it mounted on the inside of the cowl. It should be on the outside. Here are a couple of pictures, one th...

We got the steering column out today.

Here is a video of my issue. Thank you to all the suggestions that I've got so far. I'm still leaning toward grinding part of the pitman arm to clear the spark lever and rod. Check out the video

https://youtu.be/ePeYVbzhZwA

A little clearance grinding wont hurt a thing. I have not run into your problem. Is this a new repop pitman arm? Is the spark rod a repop? Looks like there is lots of room to shorten the rod, move the lever up & redrill for the pin. It's a repo spark rod and lever but everything else is original.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 17, 2026 6:14 pm
Can you space the spark lever up toward the steering wheel?

You could but moving it to a new position would throw off the geometry of the spark rod. A lot of people bend the rod around things but that will make the timing off.

Looking more at the steering and in trying to get the slop out of every joint we found one of the adjustable cap on the drag link could be tightened. I also discovered some movement where the pitman arm connects to the steering shaft. The solution for this is to tighten the nut. I admit when I put i...

Well we started to get the steering column out.

The small metal plugs are used on the rear axle housing where the aluminum cap goes. There is a small hole that allows the sleeve dimple to seat into. They go into those holes, one on each side. When installed they will make a good surface for the aluminum cap (O-ring) to seal against. Thanks so mu...

The small metal plugs are for the late rux shifter shaft. The red are the center axle thrust fiber washers. Yes, Shims. They are for spacing the DS out a bit if needed for a little extra gear clearance. Thanks John! I get it now. I knew about the fiber disks but I didn't know the Drive Shaft had th...

Just got some pars in from Lang's. The first thing I'm going to tackle is the steering shaft bushing. I think I also may need a new Pitman arm and Key. It seems to be loose but I'll be able to check it better when I get it out. When I move the steering wheel very slightly I can see the shaft moving ...

Then after taking the car out a few times I had to adjust the reverse band. This is the first adjustment I had to make. The reverse peddle went all the way to the floor and Didn't grab as well as I would like. I also found that the peddle was bent (normal for a 100 year old car) and was catching on ...

Well My Mechanic came home from school and we got a few things done. Sorry I haven't posted in a while. Life sometimes has a way pf putting somethings on hold.

First I got the clock installed. I grew up in Waltham so it was kind of fitting to get one.

My Fuel pump left me on the side of the road. So my mechanic was home for winter break and she replaced it. The 69 Super Bee started right up.

Man that sucks. Glad you're ok. This is 100% their fault. People go too fast while not paying attention. They don't pay attention.

Sean Butler wrote: ↑
Sun Aug 17, 2025 11:04 pm
Excellent, Robert! Careful with those hand signals. Not only do very few these days know what they mean, they interpret them to mean other things.

So true every time I used them people thought I was waiving. Ha!!

Took rattles out on a 50 mile picnic with the Nation's Capital Model T Ford Club. It ran great didn't overheat and I only stalled it once!! IMG_9064.jpeg https://youtube.com/shorts/IquASmhuXO4 Left turn! IMG_9071.jpeg Got it up to 40.6 on the straightaway!! IMG_5682.jpeg We were the first one there....

EdWhite wrote: ↑
Wed Aug 13, 2025 8:09 pm
Awesome you have a new subscriber, we will follow along on your YouTube

Thanks Ed If you are rebuilding a car I tried to document it all here. This is my 26 Touring. It's been a fun trip.

Took Rattles out for some practice. We're going on a small tour on Saturday. Just about 50 miles or so to a picnic with the Model T club. This small drive let us torque the head bolts after it was hot. We also took out the plugs and made sure they were clean. They looked good. I can also report that...

Well we got some side mirrors put on. I'm thinking that they will shake so bad we'll never be able to see but they look cool.

You may have to sand them down. The linings that are sold are normally too thick.

All I did was what you see in the link. I think the tips would need to be bent more to accommodate the curve of the originals. I just didn't want to mess with them. I didn't have the confidence to do the metal work. i also have an older wood kit that has the thin strips that you steam bend into plac...

Thanks so much Scott Now I know!!!! Thanks for all you do for the hobby.

Scott,
I don't know if you did this before but is there a writeup somewhere that shows the difference in float valves and how they work? I've got a 26 so my tank is always above the carb. Some new guys may benefit from your expertise. Including me.

Hey John, Jeff sold his irons to me. I have a set, but the tips have welded C Channel on them and I'm not confident in my skills to adjust them. I called Lang's and Steve told me that it was common for them to be repaired. In fact, the ones I just bought have been repaired with original tips. The ti...

I know it's not for a TT but I bet if you call, they would be able to make it.

https://www.calcarcover.com/CoverDesigner/Review

Well leave it to Steve Lang to solve the mystery. He noticed that each top looked like it was welded on. Sure enough I looked and he was right. Someone must have cut the tips off and welded C channels on each part. I can not overemphasize the value that Lang's is to the Model T hobby. What great pe...

Well leave it to Steve Lang to solve the mystery. He noticed that each top looked like it was welded on. Sure enough I looked and he was right. Someone must have cut the tips off and welded C channels on each part. I can not overemphasize the value that Lang's is to the Model T hobby. What great peo...

E-mail sent.

So how do I tell if it's Canadian?

A few important things before you install the top material to the car. There is an inner lining over the bows tacked to the bow under the actual top. The only place the top is attached is to the front bow and the rear bow. Find the center of each bow and the center of the top to align . The straps ...

J1MGOLDEN wrote: ↑
Wed May 28, 2025 1:49 pm
The 1926-27 Canadian top is totally different.

That may be a Canadian top.

Interesting, how do you tell if it's a Canadian top?

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Wed May 28, 2025 6:30 am
Those bows appear to be kind of bent up. They also seem to have had some questionable past repairs.

They looked bent to me as well. When I tried to match the curved wood parts with the bow it looked like they would not fit.

This clamp was welded on but I've seen them screwed into the wood and it looks like there are holes in the clamp to mount to the wood. IMG_9127.jpeg But it does seem to fit the car. Maybe when the wood is placed in the iron the clamp will then lind up on the front wood bow? IMG_9132.jpeg IMG_9128.jp...

Well it's time to start looking at the top and boy do I have questions. So here we go 1. Are these the correct top irons for a 1926 Touring car? IMG_9123.jpeg IMG_9125.jpeg IMG_9127.jpeg I got a work kit from J P Auto Wood. IMG_9134.jpeg So why are there no holes in the irons for the rivets that cam...

So far, the weather guessers say showery in the morning then clearing up by 1400 or so. You know what, who cares? a bit of rain won't stop us. after all, how rusty and rusty car pars get? Sat and Sun are going to be great for the tour. Come on out and have fun! My wife is picking up our daughter fro...

Thanks for the input I'll pull the plugs next.

Well where have we been? I have to say sometimes life takes over and Rattles had to take a back seat. Angie did come home from school for spring break and we did do our first oil change. I don't have very many miles racked up yet but was surprised to see how black the oil had gotten. IMG_8886.jpeg I...

I'll be there! My wife is picking up my daughter at UVA (last day of school) and driving to meet me there so we can all look at rusty car parts. Then Off to Cooters for lunch!

Go, you will not be disappointed.

Sorry no new news yet. I have to get the top irons and wood out to start to play with.

Mopar_man wrote: ↑
Sun Apr 28, 2024 9:24 pm
Took Rattles on a shake down run to settle in the front end. I also had a friend drive it who has been driving Model T's for a long time. He said that the bands feel good and the car feels great to drive. Now I have to measure the Toe and make an adjustment.

IMG_7989.jpeg

Thanks!! I'll check him out.

Does anyone remember who was selling the oil can holder that bolts on to an engine head bolt? They were a new part.

I'm going to have to take Rattles out again. I'm such a dummy it didn't check the air pressure and each tire was a 15 psi. That may make it handle a bit off. Ha!!

Well I bet people may think I fell off the face of the earth. Just lots going on. I did make it out to a car show and decided to drive Rattles. It was only 16 miles to get there on some back roads. I did notice I need to adjust the toe again as is was a bit ornery going straight at speed. I only had...

I found that Texas T parts have them. The nut is new but I bet the manifold threads are not that good. Thanks for all the input.

Anyone know where i can get one? Seems Rattles is living up to his name. Everyplace seems to be out of stock. I know I can make one but I'd like to get the accessory if someone has one.

Thanks
Rob

Wow! Thanks for all the input. This is great and what I love about this forum.

Had a real treat today my friend Steve came by with his original KRW Generator Test Meter. I didn't trust the repro gauge and wanted to see what the generator was putting out with and without lights. Got it set up to put just a small charge to the battery . I'm thinking I would rarely use headlights...

Well the car runs and everything works except the radio. I need a new speaker.

Then I replaced the 24 year old tires.

Hey it worked.

Thanks for all the input. I think i get it now. In high gear running up a hill with a full head of (steam?) you should have the spare advanced to match the engine. However if you need to go into low gear you need to retard it for the lower engine speed. I know each T is different and practice makes ...

When timing my more modern cars (1960's Mopars) if you advance the distributer you get more power. Then depending on your octane level I would retard it so it didn't ping. With the Model T and going up a hill (needing more power) you retard the ignition (timer). Why is is opposite? I know A lot of T...

J&M Machine make great drums.

Cool truck.

Well it started!! That's a good sign.

Burger in Spokane wrote: ↑
Mon Jun 10, 2024 1:12 am
A strong advantage to age (lack of) is size (lack of bulk), flexibility, and
eyes that can focus on objects that close !

So true. She had fun getting into position.

Congratulations Rob and family! Adjusting mag field, I know it was frustrating but free starts are worth the headache of setting it properly. Amaze other Model Ter's . Pays dividends in doing it thoroughly. There's a reason why we resurface the flywheel and mag field. So true. Thanks to you guys!!!...

We have done this a few times now. Always fun. Took the car apart and then put it together in 15 minutes. Angie is getting good at it now.

Some video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoNNhNgf88I
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/QmfghOBliAA

Rattles is back on the road. First car show. OK so I had to trailer it but I did get two free starts!!

Angie got to judge the model T's

Well we got it all in and everything worked except the horn. That's where it melted the first time. I can hear the horn relay go off so I'm going to take a working horn from my 67 Charger and see if the horns got fried as well. IMG_8102.jpeg Even the clock works now! IMG_8105.jpeg Way too happy to b...

Oh yes I've removed the seat before. She thought it was fun to get under the dash. LOL I'll have to try the plank over the door sill. Great idea!

One day we were out driving and my daughter said "I smell electrical." We were pulling into the driveway and sure enough the horn connection under the hood was melted. Upon further inspection we found that the area where the wires go through the firewall were also melted. It was time to rewire the c...

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Wed May 15, 2024 9:20 am
I see she's got a bit bloody. Now she's a real mechanic!

BTW, I like the velvet Elvis. Nothing better than high end artworks to spruce up the place.

Ha! She did get a bit scratched up but that red stuff is grease. The Elvis was bought in Korea. Every garage needs one!!

I got my machanic back from school. We adjusted the toe. Just had to get it 3 turns and we were at 1/4 inch difference front to back. Run out was almost non existent. IMG_8029.jpeg To take the measurement I got a curtain rod from Lowe's and placed it between the fellows and put some tape to keep it ...

Angie and I went to Luray today. What a great show. Lot's of stuff and of course the people. Did it rain? Yup but it passed. If you haven't been you have to go.

You all know who this guy is. What a neat car!

Looking at the photos of the front wheels and the bearing fitting stage, I can't see that the 6 hub bolts have been peened over to stop the nuts loosening. This can be overlooked. There is no need to delay doing it. Even if you have to tighten the nuts later, all you do is peen the bolts a little m...

Took Rattles on a shake down run to settle in the front end. I also had a friend drive it who has been driving Model T's for a long time. He said that the bands feel good and the car feels great to drive. Noe I have to measure the Toe and make an adjustment.

Why do I own a T?

This is why.

Thanks guys. I bought my axel from Dan who makes the inserts. He straightened it and machined the ends. The spindles are NOS. I'll check everything but I betting that those will be ok. I just wanted to make sure that the Tie Rod adjustment was correct. Thanks for the input. I do think ai was getting...

I'm getting ready to adjust the Tie Rod now that I've rebuilt the whole front end. The first thing I'm going to do is drive the car just down the street and back to settle everything. Then I'll check the air in the tires. Here are the steps I'm doing with the areas I'm confused about 1. Measure the ...

CudaMan wrote: ↑
Fri Apr 05, 2024 11:05 am
You're doing great work, I sure hope you are able to finish the restoration in time to enjoy the car this season with your family.

I plan on going topless for a bit. Ha!!

I plan on going topless for a bit. Ha!!

The car looks great!!! You can never drive a T too much. Ha!!!

Richard,
I'm trying my best but I'm thinking the name is going to come true. Ha!!!

If you want to see what I did with my 1926 you can take a look at

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9508

I've tried to document everything we did to the car.

Have fun, try not to get frustrated and ask lots of questions.

Got to put these on. First I packed them with grease. IMG_7933.jpeg Then they went on the car. IMG_7934.jpeg What a difference. Now when I move the steering wheel there is hardly any play. Now for the almost bad. I was checking everything and noticed that the radius rod studs were not that far into ...

Another great video.

As they say you are a rolling car show.

This was a neat video. 2 guys in a 1915 driving around learning and driving at the same time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SZExEgLT_0

Yup. All over VA . Not as bad as CA but still not good.

Scott Conger suggested that I use these to keep pressure on my drag link. Ordered them from Lang's

Just about every car on the forum has mismatched parts of some sort. Hey It's a T and a good looking on at that. Welcome!!! Love it.

Well tonight was one of those nights when you think you can get something done but noooooooo. Rattles had other ideas. I put the string rod on. and found out that the cavity made for the ball was worn and had some slop in it on both ends. IMG_7911.jpeg IMG_7907.jpeg So now I have to take it apart, c...

Didn't forget to get put the safety wire on.

Looks good now. I just have to put the steering rod on and do the alignment.

So close to completion. Angie came home for spring break and put the wheels on IMG_7863.jpeg She getting good at this. We've had the wheels on and off a few times. The bearings screwed on tight but the wheels spin freely. I also used some straps, 2x4, come along, and a chain to pull the axel in plac...

Well it went in with the tie down straps. Take a look at the video.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/YFwLsi8iViE

Got my MTFCA magazine yesterday. Sure glad they gave me a reminder to renew my membership. Ha!!!

This car had incorrect spindles from earlier car, then you replaced with the proper 1926-27 ones which lowered the axle, correct? Was the wishbone also replaced or the mounting ears bent to compensate? Is this what your talking about? To compensate for the early perch with over the axle wishbone? A...

Norman Kling wrote: ↑
Sat Mar 09, 2024 8:44 pm
After you get it all in place, be sure to check the castor of the wheels. The bottom of the axle should be ahead of the top of the axle. See the books for the correct angle.
Norm

Thanks Norm. I'm going to roll it back and forth a few times then check everything.

Thanks everyone. I put the car back down and the ball was a lot closer to the correct position. Then my wife and I got in the car and Angie looked at the ball as we got in and it moved up but not back. I'm going to get two tow straps and place them where the radius rod attaches to the axel then run ...

This car had incorrect spindles from earlier car, then you replaced with the proper 1926-27 ones which lowered the axle, correct? Was the wishbone also replaced or the mounting ears bent to compensate? No the spindles were correct 26/27 I switched them out for NOS 26/27's. The radius rod is the sam...

Have you tried putting some weight into the body to lower the frame so that the wishbone is more level with the axle to the crankcase? Even getting someone or people to sit in the front seat, might help. Norm I will have to try that. I will also carefully ask my wife to sit in the car. I might have...

The last time I attached the Radius Rod to the oil pan I had a bit of difficulty but someone suggested to use a jack to push it in and I was able to get the ball to connect. This time It looks as if the whole axel has to move back about an inch. Take a look at the video and you can see what it's doi...

Don't forget to advance your timing this weekend. Ha!!

Wait is that Kalamity Dick? Should this be part of the big post in off topic? Cool photo.

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