MTFCA Forum

Fitting sweeps.

Fitting pieces together.

Trimmed and fit.

Hope to finish today.

On to trim. Cut out all the blanks.

Glue up the blocks for end sweeps.

Cut and fit up.

Found. Thanks everyone.

Still looking.

Thanks for the comments. Installed the inbody mounting brackets and slid the deck back on the chassis. I must have mixed the brackets up, as some didn’t want to line up easily so I had to rework them All the 3 hole bracket bolts had to have the heads bent to flush fit the side of the body. IMG_8836....

about this head.

TT rear fenders

Same car.

Being in Cleveland we had the perfect location. The wife and I sat out on the deck and watched the light slowly dim and felt the temperature fall. Then at the moment of total eclipse it got very dark and no birds singing and the stars were out. Took off the glasses and the sight was truly amazing. A...

Then do the topside. IMG_8817.jpeg When I put the rear deck top piece on I shoot some liquid nails under it to kill any noise that may arise from rpm vibration IMG_8816.jpeg ThenI bolt the tank down to press the skin to the framework. I will leave this now fora few days to make sure the bond has cur...

Then acid treat and prime the panels.

I routed the rear corners and inserted small corner shields to back up when I weld the corners shut.

Then start to nail panels on starting with the bottom.

Ok, well I got the corner plates finally. Clamp them in place and knock the material up.

Then fit the finished panels.

Hi Steve, looking for the 191B.

A no hump spool.

Thanks for your help.

: IMG_8749.jpeg (74.81 KiB) Viewed 1038 times

: IMG_8420.jpeg (64.4 KiB) Viewed 1040 times

Thanks Allen and everyone else for your kind words and compliments. I have tried to do this project with a minimum of mechanical help, instead using hand tools and methods that most everyone has access to. You can get the results you’re looking for, it just takes a little longer. And there is a cert...

Took the sheetmetal off and sealing the woodwork with black lacquer.

Now waiting for plates from the steel guys.

Got the tail panel made.

Next knocked down a 3/8” flange and clamped a 4” pvc behind it and pulled the sheetmetal around it to give it the upsweep.

And check rough fit.

Richard I forgot to tell you, but I had Scott’s crew upholster a couple cars for me. They came out real nice and I would certainly talk to him. They know old cars.

Yes Richard, I used the frame that had cracks in it. I started by wet sanding it with 400 to get scratches and scares out. Then on to 1200-1500 and 2000. I use a radiator type torch with very low heat. Using Muratic acid with a radiator brush I wash the crack area and heat the crack while continuing...

I suspect that water will come in thru the front. But it probably beats no curtains in a storm.

You can only enter and exit on the passenger side. On the front seat the zipper follows the top bow outline. The zipper has pull tabs on both sides so it can be activated from both sides. The two side curtain fasteners are easily reached from the inside with the zipper unfastened. The rear IMG_8701....

Got the glass installed and had to replace the ising glass in the side curtains as they had deteriorated over time.

Need a little adjusting, but after being rolled up for 30 years they need to relax and stretch a little.

Pete, email sent.

10-11 Torpedo gas tank.
No hump spool.
Radiator neck mount lic. plate bracket.
Thanks.

Found the plates. Now need that 10-11 torpedo tank and a non hump spool. Thanks

Also anyone have a front license bracket that mounts around the radiator neck?

Looking for a matched pair of 1911 Ohio license plates. Also 1910-11 Torpedo gas tank. Original or repo. Thanks

Today I took these patterns down to my steel shop and they are going to plasma cut me some 3/16 plates so I can knock up the seat riser curves and the floorboard riser sweeps. I will also pickup a piece of pipe to shape the radius for the rear deck to seat riser. Little by little.

I pie cut the bottom so it will sweep inward at the front and bend the end cap.

Next I test fit the panels on the skeleton.

Then I add 3/8” to the scribe lines.

I use an electric hand shear to cut out the part.

Using the strips I knock the straight stretches up with the rawhide and then straighten the edge with a steel face hammer and dollie.

Cut the blank for the side. IMG_8620.jpeg Since I don’t have a 8’ brake at home, I sandwich a 1” flange between two 3/16” strips and knock down with a rawhide hammer, checking to see it is approx. 7 degrees short of 90. IMG_8621.jpeg Then clamp it to the woodwork. IMG_8622.jpeg Next I scribe the edg...

So back to work. Got the wheels painted(with a brush.

Then got the tires mounted.

So time to skin the body. I start by routing the edges where I want the sheet metal level with the wood.

Many years ago in California, one hot day, I was at work with the roll ups open and I noticed a guy wandering around out front. I took a second look and thought” That looks like Russ”. So I walked over to the door and yelled “Hey Potter!”. He turned and walked towards me and I said “Are you lost?” k...

This is for Wayne. This is the back of the last photo.

I took some of the saturation out of the excellent photo Herb posted. I love this picture. Thanks for posting Herb.

I believe they are for a 1911. I have seen lots of these on 1911’s but never on a 1912. Possibly on a very early 1912.

Certainly an idea worth a try. Thanks.

Really nice work.

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