MTFCA Forum

Belliott3

For those who own or are familiar with a 1909/10 Touring, was the rear floorboard covered with a fitted, snap-in carpet? I don't think the early cars used the cocoa mat but I could be wrong. I've seen a couple touring cars on-line with the short pile, fitted carpet and Gail Rodda has one in his 1909...

Belliott3

I need a decent used brass floorboard trim for my 1910 T. I have the emergency brake trim and I even have the upper floorboard trim so I only need the lower board brass trim but I'll buy the set if someone has an extra.

Belliott3

SOLD! Thanks MTFCA!

Belliott3

BTW, can anyone tell me how to upload photos so people can click on them and zoom in??? Every time I post pics, they cannot be clicked on.

Belliott3

Here are some body pics from Ray and some from Ernie.

Belliott3

Jerry, I did have the original body, but there was significant rot at both rear corners as well as both wooden side rails. I tried to mend it, but in the end I decided the damage was too far gone and at critical points (directly beneath the rear seat - not good for passengers) so I took the body par...

Belliott3

Well, I'm finished with what I can do here at home on my project; now I await delivery of my repaired touring body by Ray Wells with a brand new leather interior by Ernie Romano. I sure can't wait to start the assembly!

Belliott3

Still available - $900 includes shipping.

Belliott3

Norman, I think that is a brilliant idea! I think I'll be building a pair of specialty horses soon.

Belliott3

Thanks for all the input fella's - much appreciated! I'll keep you posted with photos once I get the body back but it sounds like the consensus is beer, although I think I'll serve that up AFTER the body is safely in place!

Belliott3

Bob, can you please explain how you used the X strap? Where did you attach the straps to the body? Thanks!

Belliott3

I'm almost ready to mount my 1910 Touring body onto the chassis and need some suggestions as to the best method to accomplish this. The body is still out west with Ray Wells, and until the stay-at-home order there is lifted he cannot ship it back, but I'd like to have an idea as to how to mount it o...

Belliott3

Jerry, thanks for the heads up on the tool share! I see there is a reamer for the kingpin but not the facing tool; I'll still contact Steve though.

Belliott3

As you all know, my son recently joined the T addiction club with the purchase of his first T - a 1926 Tudor. He's decided to just run with the distributor that was put on and he's got it running pretty good, but now he's working on the front axle and putting new kingpins in. I must have borrowed th...

Belliott3

What size bolt is used to hold the hogshead onto the engine pan? I think it's a 3/8-24 but not sure how long they are supposed to be - thanks!

Belliott3

Once again I am grateful for all the suggestions and comments; you all are a trove of experience that many appreciate - thank you! Jerry Van, the car came from St. Claire from an elderly gent named Bill Walters; he claimed that Bill Barth did the mag replacement but his son really didn't think so. T...

Belliott3

Still for sale, now $1,100.00 shipped or best reasonable offer.

Belliott3

Great advice everyone, thanks! Yes, he has the original mag coil but it's in pieces and will need a lot of work. The car does run ok, but it lacks a lot of power especially when going from low to high gear. He went through the clutch linkage and adjusted the clutch but it only helped a little. Top s...

Belliott3

First, allow me to say how proud I am that my eldest son has caught the bug and has bought his first T! He's 20 and saved up the money to purchase this original finish, original interior 1926 Tudor form an elderly gent here in Michigan. Unfortunately, the old fellow had someone remove the mag coil a...

Belliott3

Sorry, those photos should be in the opposite order but you get the drift! BTW, how do you attach a photo and make it so others can click on and enlarge them?

Belliott3

So thanks to my new friend Henry Lee, I was encouraged to try my hand at annealing the brass windshield channel that goes to my 1910 Touring. The channel set from the vendor was bent at too wide a radius to fit my brass frame so I needed to anneal the corners and tighten the radius. I had a corner p...

Belliott3

I have a nice set of E&J model 466 lamp set for the 1909/10 Model T. It includes two really nice headlamps and a pair of o.k. side lamps that need some work. The headlamps are in perfect condition without any dents or cracks that I can see but they will need a good polishing. They are complete with ...

Belliott3

Thank you for all the helpful information!

Belliott3

Does anyone know how the glass reflectors were attached to the 1910 style E&J model 466 headlamp? I think the early Browns had three lead tabs that threaded into the body inside but I'm not familiar with how E&J did it.

Belliott3

Can someone please tell me if all the top irons on a 1910 Touring had the brass side curtain fasteners? And where exactly were they located? I'm assuming every iron had one but I'd like to be certain. Thanks!

Belliott3

I'm looking for a pair of unused or gently used Rootlieb front fenders for my 1910 T with no metal work required.

Belliott3

So sorry for your loss, Bob; I know it's been a difficult time for you and your wife but your mom is finally at peace and you did your absolute best to make her life more comfortable while she was with you. Still, she was your mom and the pain is deep; I know.

Belliott3

Dave, PM sent!

Belliott3

My apologies; my misunderstanding. I assumed that the bolt was from your 1910. Thanks for clearing that up!

Belliott3

I just heard from Kim Dobbins, and his original 1910 Touring, which I believe is a May build, has the original high headed bolt that was brass plated. He sent me pictures and I looks exactly like the one Gail Rodda has in his book for his 1909. So apparently that style radiator support went into the...

Belliott3

Darel, PM sent about the gas tank.

Belliott3

Dan, it looks like on page 42 they sell a 3/8"x16 castellated nut, so this may just work! I'd have to have a hole drilled in the end and brass plate them but it may the route to take.

Belliott3

Thanks, Dan!

Belliott3

Does anyone know where I can purchase the correct size woodruff key that holds the emergency brake lever onto the assembly shaft?

Belliott3

I was wondering where I could find the correct radiator mounting bolt and nut for an early T. According to sources, the 1909/10 T's had a single heavy head, brass plated mounting bolt that passed from the radiator mounting hole all the way through the frame and fender iron, using a brass castle nut ...

Belliott3

The bracket has sold, thanks!

Belliott3

Thanks for all the help, fella's; I really do appreciate it!

Belliott3

Can an original JB wooden coil box be converted to accept later style coils?

Belliott3

There is a small, flat washer directly under the threaded screw on the top of the handle. Thanks, Scott, for the input; I'll see what I can do. The main issue with the one I currently have is the main body is misshapen, and the tapered handle sits way too loosely in it.

Belliott3

Yes, I found a nice set so this one is an extra. Too bad I couldn't have found three others as nice as this one, though! Daniel, I never received your PM or email; try it again, please.

Belliott3

This is a really nice original 1909/10 style running board bracket with no pitting. It's in fantastic shape and came from a well-known early T enthusiast in our hobby. $120 plus shipping. Thanks!

Belliott3

Does anyone at least know the thread size at each end of the valve?

Belliott3

I'm in dire need of a fuel shut off valve for my 1910 T! The one I currently have is pretty chewed up inside as well as outside and leaks like a sieve. If you have a spare lying around, please contact me. The parts supplier has them on indefinite backorder and has no idea when they'll be able to get...

Belliott3

Bob, what's the body/engine number on your 1909?

Belliott3

Larry, thanks for the advice; I was using just a MAPP hand held torch but it still didn't budge. My son is going to take it to his shop this week and see if he can get it off. I'd be really interested in hearing more about your project, especially since they were produced the same day! Please send m...

Belliott3

I have an early style brake lever on my 1910 T; it has a pin holding it in place as well as a key. I am trying to remove the brake lever from the assembly in order to have it brass plated but I cannot seem to get it off. I've fully removed the pin and drilled it out, I've heated it up and tried usin...

Belliott3

Thanks for all the help and input; as always, it's much appreciated! And thanks to Steve for parting with some of your stash!

Belliott3

Steve, I do believe those are them! I counted the holes in my buggy rail and I'll need ten total. Is there a nut that holds it in place, since my holes go all the way through the rail?

Belliott3

I'm in the process of putting my 1910 Touring back together and I'm wondering where to find the small studs that attach to the buggy rail. There are several small holes in my rail that these studs go into in order to attach the top to instead of Murphy fasteners. I'm not exactly sure what the correc...

Belliott3

I am looking for a round fuel tank with correct sediment bulb for my 1910 T. I currently have a newer tank with the soldered on sediment bulb for 1911/12 that has been freshly cleaned and sealed that I'd be willing to trade. Original or reproduction is fine, as long it isn't needing major repairs an...

Belliott3

I have a set of early reproduction 1910 running boards in really nice shape. There is some minor pitting and an extra hole or two but otherwise they are in really good shape. $100 includes shipping to the lower 48 states only.

Belliott3

Here are some more photos of my sediment bulb. It doesn't appear to be like any bulb Ford supplied on the 1909/10 Model T's; in fact, I don't see anything like it in any of the supplier catalogs! The tank looks pretty new, but the threaded filler opening, as well as the sediment bulb, have been sold...

Belliott3

Thanks for the advice - I do appreciate it! The bulb is original to my February, 1910 T and indeed looks pretty rough.

Belliott3

Is there a certain sealer that should be used to prevent gas drippings when mating brass fittings to sediment bulbs? I'm sure any kind of plumbers tape would simply dissolve.

Belliott3

I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the two different stamp marks stood for on my 1910 hogshead? The one sure appears to be P.P., and the other is clearly an H. Any ideas???

Belliott3

Eric, you don't happen to have a pair of 466 lamps or parts laying around do you?

Belliott3

It's a little late for asking this question but better late than never; is there supposed to be a pad of some kind between the engine pan arm on the engine and the frame? It seems like there was an old leather one on my 1914 T, but I don't recall seeing one on my '10 when I pulled the motor two year...

Belliott3

Wayne, so you're saying I no longer have to resize my photos??? That's wonderful! It was always quite a process if I wanted to post a photo, opening the picture up in paint and then resizing three times before finally saving it. I'll try the new way soon, and thanks for the tip!

Belliott3

Finally got a rolling chassis on my 1910 project! After two years of replacing parts and rebuilding others, I'm starting to make some progress; my goal is to have her ready for the OCF next year.

Belliott3

Ok, I'm about to show my stupidity to all; I finally figured out why I was unable to log in yesterday; my laptop saved a VERY old and outdated username for this forum instead of the one I registered with when the new forum opened. So every time I tried logging in, it was correctly telling me that I ...

Belliott3

Sorry for the delay, but I was having all kinds of issues yesterday and today with my username not working as it should. Darel, my build date is 2/4/10. And I don't know why the photos are not showing now; they did yesterday do I'll try loading them again. BTW, can anyone explain how to make your at...

Belliott3

Well after two years of searching for correct parts to replace incorrect parts and getting things blasted, painted and rebuilt I'm finally in the beginning stages of re-assembly! These are just a few photos of the chassis, but I will keep you all posted as I continue to make progress. It's been a lo...

Belliott3

Alright, now that I've finally located the hole is there a trick to getting that spring on??? It's brand new so it's pretty stiff.

Belliott3

Thanks, Bob, that's kinda what I thought but couldn't remember exactly where the hole was; your photos and measurements helped tremendously!

Belliott3

Is there supposed to be a small hole near the end of the starting crank arm for the spring to attach to? I can't seem to find one on mine, but it's been recently painted and I don't know if the hole was filled in with paint.

Belliott3

I just finished rebuilding my driveshaft and rear axle on my 1910 and test fit the entire assembly. I installed everything in both the axle housings and the driveshaft and bolted all together including the rear radius arms. I wanted to be sure there were no snags before applying grease and gasket se...

Belliott3

Thanks, Hap, that certainly clears things up! Since my car was made 2-4-10 I'm certain it would have had the new design bent rear truss rod. I always appreciate those who are willing to help a fellow T guy out - thanks again!

Belliott3

Were both truss rods straight on the 1910 Model T like they were on the '09 T's?

Belliott3

Steve, I'll take it, thanks! I sent you a PM.

Belliott3

I'm in need of a decent u-joint for my 1910 T. Anyone have a nice tight spare?

Belliott3

Thank you all for the great ideas; I really do appreciate it! I'll keep you posted.

Belliott3

Thanks for the two suggestions! Les, do you know what size threads the spindles have? I see the Universal thread chaser is listed for use with 5/32" to 1/2" threads. Terry and Dave; is there a particular size in the thread file or are they basically universal?

Belliott3

Once more, I've hit a snag in my restoration attempt on my 1910 T and I need some help. I'm in the process of mounting new tires on my new Stutzman wheels and I'm test fitting the new outer threaded Timken bearings (yes Timken, not ball bearings) on the spindles and the passenger side goes on fine b...

Belliott3

I have a bit of a problem. While rebuilding my rear axle and two piece driveshaft, I installed a new bushing and now the driveshaft won't fit through. The driveshaft is brand new and the bushing fit over it when I first took it out of the package, but the I.D. of the bushing compressed slightly when...

Belliott3

Sold! Thank you!

Belliott3

Email sent, Gene!

Belliott3

Bump.

Belliott3

John, I know a fellow T guy who wants your spindles but he isn't registered. He asked me to contact you with a PM and to let you know he will take them!

Belliott3

Sold!

Belliott3

Scott, PM sent; thanks!

Belliott3

I have an early reproduction aluminum hood for a 1909-12 Model T Touring. It is in great shape with no dents or damage, other than some lose of paint. The white striping on the one side is a grease pencil tracing and is easily washed off. $160 plus shipping.

Belliott3

I have a set of running board brackets for sale. These

: DSC06402.JPG (33.64 KiB) Viewed 1090 times

are in really good shape, but do show some pitting. $50 plus shipping.

Belliott3

I know this may sound like a stupid question, but how do you go about annealing the brass? Can I use a small propane or mapp torch and how long do I hold the flame to the brass? All great ideas - thanks!

Belliott3

Thanks, Richard, that's a good idea. How thick should the masonite be? Also, here is a picture of what the difference looks like. I'll email you for the information you have on the frames, thanks!

Belliott3

I bought the brass windshield channel kit for my 1910 T, but the corner bends that are on the channels are too wide. I have a small piece of the original channel corner and it is a tighter curve. How do you go about adjusting the bend in the curve so it's tighter? Anyone with experience on the subje...

Belliott3

Bob, I have a nearly full can you can have for free!!! Just pay the shipping costs.

Belliott3

Thanks, fellas, I do appreciate the input! I will indeed look into that cast iron paint from Langs; I really do like that look on an engine. And Steve, I fully agree about the shiny paint on a T engine; looks out of place in my opinion - satin or flat is much more appropriate.

Belliott3

I've stripped all the old paint off my open valve engine and have it down to the metal. It has an aged metal look now, which I kind of like, but I'm undecided if I should prime and paint it or leave it unpainted. If I decide to paint, what paint should I use that will adhere to the engine; but if I ...

Belliott3

Finally got my original 1910 hood back from the painters - I think it turned out pretty darn nice!

Belliott3

Keith, there are no other numbers stamped on the head anywhere. Mark, I assume you're thinking that small number is actually 74,042, meaning the head came off of an Oct. or later 1911; but I didn't think Ford stamped both the cylinder head and the block with the same number. And why stamp it upside ...

Belliott3

I decided to remove the old, rattle can paint from my open valve motor and found some curious numbers stamped on the drivers side of the cylinder head. I know the head looks like it has a pink hue, but the sun was coming indirectly into my pole barn and gave it an unnatural color. The indirect light...

Belliott3

Nice looking cars! But I'm curious about the 1912; in the photo of the engine, the engine pan bolts all appear to be upside down, with the castle nuts on the bottom. Did Ford sometimes install them like this? It sure appears to be an original, untouched engine but maybe not.

Belliott3

Those were repops, and I would prefer original if I can find one.

Belliott3

Scott, when doing this test do I leave a roller bearing inside the left housing?

Belliott3

I'm still in need of an early style water inlet for my 1910 T. The early ones were a bit different than the later styles, mainly differing in the bolt hole area; the holes had a raised lip around them. If anyone has one or knows of someone with one, please let me know. Thanks! F000EE16-46B6-4CC5-852...

Belliott3

Scott, now I'm seeing the light! Just one question; I'm assuming the magnetic dial indicator base will set on the axle housing backing plate, with the indicator touching the tip of the threaded end of the axle shaft?

Belliott3

Also, it appears that my housings are the second version, with washers over the bolt hole openings.

Belliott3

Thanks for all the input - I really do appreciate the help! Trent, I suspect my housings may have warped a bit due to the fact that the inside of both clam shells have been heavily brazed around the perimeter where the rivets are. With all that heat, maybe the inside tubes moved inward eliminating a...

Belliott3

Trent, I'm not sure I'm following your suggestion. My clearance, with all stock thrust washer assemblies, was zero no matter the shims added or subtracted from the pinion. When I substituted a thinner bronze washer on the left housing, measuring approximately .170", along with stock steel washers I ...

Belliott3

The problem with that washer is I used a belt sander to get it thinner, and it's not the same thickness all the way around. I'd rather have one that's more accurate.

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