MTFCA Forum

Darel, I’m so sorry to hear you’re parting with the old girl! Nearly eighty years in your possession: no marriage will ever last that long so again, I’m sorry you need to part. Forgive me if I’m prying into your personal life, but isn’t there anybody in your immediate family who would want to carry ...

Price reduced to $21,500: also listed on Hemmings site.

Climax controlled environment??!!! Stoopid auto correct: climate controlled!

Still more pics!

More pics!

I am posting this for a friend; he is a forum member but not as familiar with this type of thing. Besides, I sold this car to him seven years ago and he asked if I wouldn’t mind posting it. I put a lot of time and work into this T and know it’s a gem! In fact, I wish I had the $ and space to buy it ...

When adjusting the low speed band in order to achieve the desired 1 to 1 1/2” distance from the floorboards, should the emergency lever be fully back or fully forward or in the middle? I can never remember and the diagram that’s commonly used doesn’t state the position for adjusting the low band nut.

Thanks Bob, someone is sending me a piece, but I could always use another. I need a small piece about 8”x5” if you have it.

Sounds weird, but I need a scrap of old leatherette to patch a hole in the original upholstery on my 1916T. I know most people toss the old upholstery when replacing it, but you never know with T people: someone out there is bound to have some aged leatherette laying around!

I’m actually looking for the upper part that attaches to the side lamp bracket that holds the running board mounted spare tire in place. I have a lower carrier but need something to hold the top of the tire secure. The original was made by the LP Halladay Company.

Thank you for all the great ideas: I have some thinking to do, but Robert’s repair looks fantastic, and that’s what I’m thinking is best. Robert, what adhesive did you use? And if anyone has some weathered leather or leatherette, I could use a good chunk: 4”x8”or larger would suffice. Also, what dye...

I probably already know the answer to this question, but has anyone had ANY kind of success repairing/ patching a hole in damaged original T upholstery? Since it’s not leather I’m guessing it’s pretty difficult, but I really want to preserve the all original interior, and this is the only major hole.

Are the vendors no longer selling the amazing Fun Projects brake light switch? I can’t seem to find one anywhere, and they were great! The ones that attach to the transmission cover are a pain. If anyone has an old one they would part with, I’d be interested.

I have the spare tire holder that mounts to the running board, but I need the upper one that attaches to the left front lamp bracket: it needs to fit my 1916 T.

Hey Richard, if the upper part in your barn is still available and no one has spoken for it, I’d be interested: I have the bottom carrier but nothing to secure the top. I sent you a PM

Ok thanks John!

So I’m a bit confused on adjusting the three clutch fingers: does tightening the screw clockwise increase the 13/16” space or decrease it?

Cool video, but kinda weird too: what’s with all the creepy clowns and goofy antics???

Looking for an NOS or similarly nice drive shaft. Suppliers have new, I know, but if I can save a few shekels by finding a nice used one I will!

Interesting Steve: I guess I never considered buying the non-adjustable bearing because I thought it somehow inferior to the adjustable type. This opens another question; which bearing do most prefer or recommend and why?

Thanks for the info!

Are the parts suppliers no longer able to get the adjustable drive shaft bearing kits? Does anyone know where to get them?

No longer needed, thanks!

I’m looking for a set of NOS or equally nice spider gears for my 1916 differential.

I know, but I’m a T owner and therefore I cringe at the thought of spending $275 plus shipping if I can find a good usable one. In the end, I may have to,

Does anyone have a decent front seat spring that will fit an early 16 touring?

Registration for this years OCF is officially open: check your email’s!!!

Thanks for the confirmation: I thought they were one and done!

Are the crushable copper intake/exhaust rings reusable? I’m thinking not, but I’d like to be certain.

Does anyone have a decent set of original brass valve stem covers? I know the vendors sell reproductions, but I prefer the patina of original brass.

Does anyone know where to find the wide head step bolts that were used on the 1915/16 T’s? They are 2 5/8” long, 1/4” wide with a large, flat 1” head.

Do you happen to have the bushing facing tool?

Awesome: thanks Larry!

Probably exact copies: I just prefer using originals if possible. Personally, I think the really old brass was better stuff than today’s brass. I cannot prove this, but even after both are polished I think the old brass has a different shade to it. Again, can’t prove a thing, just my preference. I w...

Anyone? Still looking

Still hunting for an original brass steering wheel nut for my 16 touring.

Thanks Ken, I appreciate it!

Odd question perhaps, but does anyone know what tap size to use on a brass steering wheel nut? The threads on the inside of mine are buggered up a bit.

You got it! Send me a PM please, and yes, 4:1 ratio

I am in need of a usable steering gear drive pinion only for my 1916 T, as well as an original brass steering wheel nut. I know the parts suppliers sell new ones but I’m a T owner and therefore I’m cheap!

Sent you a PM

My 1916 touring’s engine block was cast Monday, Dec 13, 1915 and the engine serial number stamped Saturday, December 18, 1915.

Thanks, I appreciate it!

I’m looking for the original style front bearing dust cover that goes on the back side of the front hub: no neoprene ones please.

Hi Jon; thanks for the information. Unfortunately, due to lack of storage area 18’ would be too big for me. Even 16’ would probably be too much as well, but could possibly work. Ideally, 14/15 feet would be best.

I did a web search, and U-Haul only sells older cargo trucks, but not open trailers. When one becomes too old or worn, U-Haul takes them apart and scraps them

Wow, great response as well as encouraging! I don’t think I’ve heard anyone claim a blowout on a single axle open trailer, while towing a T, caused any dreadful experience other than the usual pain in the neck tire change. Also, in my mind a 12’ trailer would be too small to fit a touring T comforta...

Awesome: thanks!

Does anyone know where I can buy the front hub bearing dust cover with felt? I need the original style, not the neoprene one: I’m still using the ball bearings. I think all the normal suppliers are out of stock.

What size is it Jerry?

This is a piggyback off my other post on T trailering, which was amazingly helpful! This poll is only for those who trailer their T’s on an open trailer. I understand the argument for buying an enclosed trailer, but at this time and for my needs, which are only short local trips, an open trailer is ...

Thanks Tim, I appreciate the input! I’ve actually found a lot of decent trailers near enough to investigate, mostly 16’ ones. For stowing in the off season months, I’d prefer a dual axle 7x14, but they are hard to find. As for driving my T up any trailer ramp, I’m done with that experience! I’ll inv...

I’d take that Joe if it’s FS

Forgive me if I’m wrong, and I mean no offense to anyone, but I was always told that one should never tow a vehicle on a single axle trailer because if, while going down the highway at 55 mph and one of your tires blows out, it could cause a lot of damage to trailer and T; any thoughts on that?

I’m looking for a pair or individual round black side view mirrors for my ‘16 touring. I really don’t want the brand new telescoping ones available from suppliers, but prefer original or older mirrors: must be black and round. I do have a like new rectangle brass one that I’d be willing to trade.

I’m not sure if this is permissible to list here, but I’m looking to buy a dual axle, open trailer for short hauling my Model T. Ideally, it would be 7x14, decent tires and ramps included and ready to haul: not interested in fixer uppers. Preferably located in the Metro Detroit area. 7x16 trailer wo...

That’s a good point Jerry! I don’t have a particular trailer in mind, but currently looking around. I’ll be sure to check the GVWR on any potential prospects.

I was thinking the same thing about it being slippery, especially if the deck was damp,

Is there an advantage of having a steel deck instead of wood? Also, in the earlier cars with no battery cage, I learned that if you don’t remove it prior to trailering, it will bounce around enough to loosen the battery terminals.

Wow, lots of great info that I wasn’t aware of! Where to attach the tie downs on the front of the T in particular. I too always used the front axle, but I’m wondering what is meant by the wheel basket? Also making sure there wasn’t too much weight forward on the trailer tongue. And I was indeed refe...

Agreed: this would mainly be for short transports, such as going to Dearborn for the OCF! I’ve rented both the open UHaul as well as an enclosed trailer, so I figured I’d just buy my own open trailer and modify it as I like. I’ve seen them with a battery operated winch attached to the front rail to ...

Would a 7x14 dual axle open landscape trailer be safe enough to haul a Model T touring car?

I’m looking for an original robe rail to attach to the back of the front seat of a 1916 Touring.

That’s how I was taught; right arm over the passenger seat back, twist body while turning head to see clearly out the back window when backing up.

Forgive my ignorance, but what’s the raspberry treatment? Sounds yummy!

Locktite 669? Where do you find it?

Ok, so I finally got around to removing all four taper bearing races from my wheel hubs. I’ll be putting in all ball bearing races, but one outside race is a little loose. What is the best thing to use to keep it in place?

Or text me if it’s easier. 5866515760

Gotcha. Figured I’d ask ahead of time! No matter, send me that PM and let’s arrange this.

Just curious; is the core any good and do you have the rest of the brass pieces?

I’ll take it! Send me a PM and we’ll arrange things

Looks nice! Is it completely disassembled, or would you ship the entire tank?

I guess that makes sense, especially since the tag is upside down! And I’m assuming the radiator is a 1911 or early 12? From my understanding, Ford started putting “Made in USA” under the logo in 1912.

Has anyone ever heard of the State Radiator Company of Los Angeles? This brass Ford radiator has that tag on it and there is no Made in USA on it. Old reproduction perhaps? Nothing turns up on the inter web.

Lots of great advice; I have a lot to think about! I also forgot to ask, but did all brass radiators have “Made in USA” on the front, or were some just Ford script?

Where would you find an original radiator front like that?

And yes, my radiator doesn’t leak or overheat.

Here are some pictures. I shouldn’t have done such a good job polishing; it makes the dents harder to see but you get the idea. It’s not a horrible dent, but it is visible, right in front for all to see!

How difficult is it to repair the brass on an original Ford brass radiator? The one I currently have is original to the car, but the previous owner put quite a dent on the front of the tank that also creased the top of the tank as well. Otherwise there’s nothing wrong with it. There is another brass...

Alan, in the first post you mention that the second strap holds the top of the tire against the bottom of the top bow, but in the second post the back strap is held by two footman loops attached to the crossmember of the tray? I’d be putting the cradle on the drivers side since the door doesn’t open...

Allan, I like the simplicity of it, as well as not having to drill extra holes! Can you please send some detailed pictures of yours with the wheel and straps in place?

Very interesting! But where do the two arms bolt to under the body?

Any ideas on how to make a running board spare tire carrier for a Demountable wheel? Any suggestions from those who have made one?

Wow, great input from everyone; really appreciate it! I’ll have to decide what I’m going to do, but when I do, I’ll have some idea of what to expect!

Thanks Tim, I was thinking that it was possible. I know I’ll have to buy new hub bolts and peen them over once installed as well.

Dumb question: can the front wheel hub be replaced by simply unbolting it, popping it out and bolting a new one on? Spindles are all tight and sound.

BTW, this is for a 1916 Touring that I picked up this autumn.

Thank you for all the responses; I’m always grateful for any help I can get with problems I’m not familiar with! I do have another option that may be easier? I have a full set of NOS ball races and bearings in excellent condition that I could use on the Demountable hubs, but first I would need to re...

If I want to switch from ball bearings to Timkens, do I need to remove the inner race that’s on the threaded spindle and if so, how?

That car is sold: I bought it!

Is this what you’re looking for?

Thanks for the tip John! Do you remember which hardware store they came from?

Does anyone know where to find the offset hinges for the metal covers under the seats on a 1916 T?

I’m looking for a decent looking used brass radiator for a 1915/16 T. Prefer an original or older replacement that still looks good and holds water: usable as is.

The wheel set is sold

Still looking for a decent used touring top for my 1916 T. My car has nice “age” to it, which is why I’m looking for a used top and not brand new.

The wheels are currently pending

Jeff, did that price include sandblasting as well?

I use Fastenal but they probably don’t ship that far west

Four nice 30x3.5” wood wheels with Hayes Demountable rims plus four usable 30x3.5” Firestone tires. Wood spokes are solid and rims have some surface rust. Tires are older with slight age lines but still have tread. 800 plus shipping. IMG_2023-11-29-190823.jpeg IMG_2023-11-29-190751.jpeg IMG_2023-11-...

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