MTFCA Forum

It can be bent but will be a bit shorter than the correct one.

I sent you a message Karl - I want that bracket.

I have a stash of Bendix brand bolts if you need a couple.

The non-starter low pedal is different than a starter equipped pedal - you can see in the last photo posted that the starter pedal has a bend to the right for the linkage to clear the can !

Back on topic: is the Bendix bolt the one with the short protrusion ? If that hole is worn as well as the key slot, you might need to replace the armature as CudaMan stated. I've "dressed" down a Model A bolt to fit a sloppy hole before but the keyway was good.

Off Topic John BUT I believe your email has been hacked !

Thanks for the rear photo Matt - Richard's faster than I am !!!

Matt - can you post a photo of the rear ?

Last time I spoke to John, it was a later style chassis - musta changed direction as he's been purchasing '26 - '27 parts from me !

I believe so BUT somewhere I read that the length of the iron part that fits into the bracket has a longer leg for the earlier cars. I have some rear irons here but not sure what year - I'll measure them.

I might be interested in a single if you have several.

Karl - help the fella out - I have no extra singles.

Throw it in the scrap bin & purchase a new one - they're good ! Save yourself some grief !

Single or double leg ? I have several "orphan" doubles.

Although I do not recommend it, one can run a jumper wire from the "mag." terminal to the "coil" terminal so one can switch either bat or mag & still get juice to the coil.

Let's see the backside of your switch - I have the same on my Racer w/dual plug distributor.

Appreciate the comments Hap - supposed history of this '15 Touring was it was one of the xxx number built during the 1915 San Francisco Expo ! I'll check the housings a bit closer BUT they both take the later open spool & it's a later type torque tube so I'm assuming they were "modified".

The coil in the cleaner above also has the same lid !

Allan - I have Motor Utilities 23" disc wheels on my '25 Racer that utilizes a stock Ford hubcap as did my 23" Michelin discs - both are demountables.

Thanks for explaining the difference for the special rear lamp holder for the early Coupelet, Russ.

I thank you kindly, Chris !

Those are for Touring cars, John.

Thanks Dan - I figured you might have seen something like this ! I'd sure like to know how they might be removed !

That's the one Frank !!! I'm "technically challenged" so I don't know how to get rid of it !!!

Am I the only guy that's getting that dang pop-up every time I open the main page ?????????????????

To add to the mystery: both housings (later type) had both backing plates replaced with '15 - '16 smoothies - I'm assuming to participate in California HCCA festivities ! Both housings take the later open bolt d.s. spool & the fill hole is below centerline. None of you California Folks remember any ...

Found a new home - thanks MTFCA !

Working on a Ruckstell out of a '15 Touring from the Lake Tahoe area many years ago - anyone recognize this type of outboard axle bearing ? The p.s. has what appears to be "knock-off" tabs across from each other - not so on the Ruckstell half ? Federal # FS88508 on the outer carrier. Also: how not t...

Every time I log on, I get a pop-up about the eclipse party at the MTFCA Museum ??????????

Here's a complete timer elevator available - spark rod is included just didn't make the photo deadline ! $250.00 includes Priority Mail in the U.S. Drop me a note through the Forum, please.

BTT - all you closed cab folks have straps ????????

Russ Firstnow would be the guy to answer your questions - he'll most likely see this.

Don't go confusing him Frank - him & a T buddy are building up a '26 - '27 Hack ! John was a bit vague on his original question !

"Flat" is a misnomer in T language ! One needs to verify the "droop" in the manifold by holding a straight edge at the BOTTOM of #'s 1 & 4 to see just where #'s 2 & 3 are - most the time the center ports will be way off !

Need more specifics, John - assuming you are wanting to exchange "early" spindle for '26 - '27 style ? Dan stated the obvious & asked the proper question.

I've had several closed cab rigs in the shop for odds & ends repairs and not one had door check straps so I had some done up using the remnants of one using similar webbing material & the length I kinda judged by the door position. These fit original & repro footman loops. I have a limited number of...

Perhaps the powers at be would find it in their hearts to loose that dang pop-up ???

I've never found any of the repro R.M. brake bands to be totally round & I've mounted up at least a dozen sets - set the adjustment tight enough so they don't get too hot to the touch after running down the road a piece !

Yes, anti-kick device - Jay B. posted one on "Accessory of the Day".

It replaces the entire differential. The p.s. retains the stock pieces - bearing, sleeve, brass plate & 2 steel. The gearing will be fine.

I'll take that Matt - send me a total.

It's the connection between the brake pedal to R.M. equalizer.

I have my Gramps' '24 TT C-Cab Express Box with a 3 speed Warford & high speed Ruckstell - I've been clocked at 37 mph downhill w/tailwind !

Kinda looked like mine, Bob !

Some of the obvious KRW tools & equipment: left, center & right: L. Battery Charger on the wall T & A engine stand C. Complete Tool Cabinet R. electric coil tester electric valve grinder T & A generator tester pan jig Babbitt pot & burner hyd. press engine stand rear axle stand

Alot of those shop tools appear to be KR Wilson supplied !

Are you referencing E & J model 20's Les ?

Not that I've heard of Clayton. My Gramps' C-Cab express had a rotten floor so one of my Dad's mechanic's replaced it with ribbed steel plate - hell for stout but added a bit of weight !

I'll check the TT book but I don't believe the Express bed & Flatbed use the same wood.

You are correct Norm but it is a closed car cowl.

I run one on our '19 Centerdoor - wife has a kick control register on her side - very functional !

I'm running a nearly identical OHV set-up - my radiator started life as a Whippet but I had a new top tank made with Model T inlet & outlets - it cools O.K. but I'm also running a 5/8" shaft water circulator - been on several 200+ mile NWVSC events and have never boiled over.

Corey's done a handful of G's for me & some referrals - the G is quite particular on fuel level in the well - good luck !

Hey Matt - did Norm close up ?

Ruckstell 2 speed axle. Front wheels are '26-'27 Model T wires wheels - get a better photo of the rears. Cab is remnants of a C-Cab.

Rader in California & I believe Reeder was in Texas

Quite spiffy there, Andy !

Ford made a slick spring tool for those monster springs, Robert - 12"+ piece of 1" wide flat bar with a roll pin inserted at one end. I'll try & grab a photo later for you - makes it a much easier task !

Nice advertisement ! Wonder why the cost difference between the TT & the car ?

Thanks for looking Michael !

Is there a date anywhere in there ?

Nice jig there, Ken !

If it's cracked up, why not replace it - Bob's Antique Auto Parts was reproducing 16" black rims a number of years ago - I might still have one in stock.

He posted that both axles are original w/Ford script in the keyways.

Nice rig - perhaps make an inquiry over at the MTFCI - that looks like their sticker in the windshield.

First documented use of a "Bungee" !

There was a similar accessory shell listed on Ebay recently for some good $'s !

Your reply made my day, Morgan !!!

That's what the box states - STD.

I use them for carbon removal - Neway for seat cutting.

I see a hand crank on both George - first one appears to have a "crank holder". #1 sure appears to be an early Towncar.

Get a small sauce pan on the stove a little better than 1/2 full & turn on the stove - set the float in the water and hold it down with a wooden spoon just before it stars to boil & watch for bubbles.

Model A is the same as a T, Norm.

Gauge spoken for - thanks MTFCA !

Haven't used or seen one of Tony's, Tim - it's unfortunate someone hasn't taken the reins on reproducing !

I have a similar spindle - NOS - factory defect !

Norm - non starter cars had the switch on the coilbox.

5 to 1 +/_.

There's one going off on Ebay today that is ground.

You gotta do what you gotta do, Dan ! I had the same task when I moved for retirement - couldn't take it all !

There's not alot of room in a '28 - '29 P/U !

A "temporary" repair to a wood wheel is most likely a bad idea !

Ford experimented with a brush commutator in the early 20's.

Really nice Standard brand brass horn - $250.00 + the ride. Drop me a note.

Here's one of Tim's great "Night & Day" gas gauges - this is for a round tank. $125.00 + the ride.

Any interest in a mint NOS set of TT running boards ? $300.00 pr. + the ride. Drop me a note through the Forum, please.

The "trick" on Andersons is to retard the spark prior to shutting down - keeps the flapper from hanging up.

No lube on a New Day.

Most if not all of the early Bosch conversions used a "bell crank" unit w/double spark arms - I understand the TTP conversion utilized a reverse cut gear to change the rotor direction thus eliminating the 2 spark control arms.

Nice looking power plant & mechanic Bryant ! Is that your own "oil splasher" design ?

My mistake - I had fender irons in my head !

I have quite a few pair - '15 - '16 irons are a bit different at the headlamp post mount - they're "one-sided" as are the correct headlamp. Shipping them might be a bit of a problem - kinda long.

Thanks for the info.

John - are you able to post a photo of your switch ? Does it have Ford script below the headlamp lever ?

What "model" T, S or R ?

I was under the impression that the repro switches were a #55 key.

No worries, my friend !

I believe I have an original wooden box for that horn.

Those are "rears" Phillip.

All Ford sediments bulbs had a screen that I've ever taken apart.

I like John's lathe procedure - I might have to try that !

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