MTFCA Forum

No. AC would discharge the magnets almost instantly. You need a DC welder and then to follow the instructions posted many times on the forum. I used my TIG welder, set to DC, and just touched the post at 30A, then increased the setting incrementally up to 120A. By "touch", I mean you hit it for just...

First, this is a low priority post. I was driving west out of Portland today (in a modern) to pick up a gift for a friend in Newberg, Oregon. Somewhere west of Sherwood, I spotted a ’25-ish RPU, dark green over black, heading east on HWY. 99W, two people inside, easily keeping up with the 40mph traf...

Right there with you! I drive my ’15 (yes, a real one) all year round. Anytime you take a T out, it’s a one-car parade. It’s not only reliable, and gets good mileage, but it also puts a lot of smiles on a lot of faces. I go to the grocery store, the auto parts store, and pretty much everywhere as lo...

I'm confused. 6-32 is NC. Keith's photo is a closeup. Given that, it sure looks like 6-32x1½ with a hex nut to me (the nut is in shadow).

Ditto what Larry said. Go to a truck shop and have them build you 2/0 starter cables. My '26 arrived with an 8-volt battery and modern cables. I got the 2/0 cables, switched to a new 6-volt battery, and the engine actually cranked faster . More voltage is not better. Just fix the reasons you think m...

Regarding the last few posts, I'm not surprised. My experience is that the electrical noise in a Model T will basically have a two-pin flasher for lunch. Without a ground, the induced voltage overpowers the electronics in them. As Chris said, they work fine until you start the engine. Then they just...

tap: 3/4-24 UNS, tap drill: 18mm (or 23/32), ~$16 each on Amazon.

- Bruce

I have a small stash of New Days. I've been running an NOS one since I bought my '15. Ditto what John K. said. Make a carbon (or better yet, graphite) brush, and all wear on the timer face stops. Regarding the metal dust you found, I've run into that first hand, as well. The metal brush is the culpr...

Hmmm. Starts fine cold but not hot? Make sure your float valve isn't leaking. They do flood easily, and nothing makes them harder to start. My '15 starts easily cold or hot, but it took a new float valve and a bit of trial and error on the float level and needle valve setting (straight-through NH, N...

There were also actual color photographs from the era. The process was Autochrome Lumière, invented in 1907. Do a Google search for "Autochrome", switch to Images, and you'll see a lot of them. Add "WWI" to the search, and you'll see a new perspective of 1917.

Keep in mind that 600w rear end oil is on the ISO scale, not the SAE scale. SAE-600 would be like peanut butter. Here's the equivalency chart (also note that SAE engine oil is on a different scale yet): viscosities.png That said, 85w-140 GL4 is a good choice for a stock rear end, and 85w-90 GL4 for ...

Ditto Flitz. It works fast and well. Maas lasts the longest. Be careful with the Blue Magic. It also works fast, but has a lot of ammonia. Repeated use of ammonia leaches the zinc out of brass, turning it reddish. Don't ask how I know...

Both McMaster and Amazon sell 1/4-32 taps. Local machine shop suppliers might have them, too.

August 2007, my '26 Fordor. I had more hair then.
- Bruce

Keith... FWIW, the top boot on my '15 doesn't balloon at all, even though it seems that it should, given its resemblance a parachute. My guess is that the windshield throws the air up, which then comes down onto the top boot, instead of from straight ahead. All I know is that there's no hint of the ...

I'd suggest crafting a patch piece out of brass, then silver-solder it in place. Silver melts a few hundred degrees below brass, so you won't risk a blowout trying to build up the brass like you mentioned, and the repair will be plenty strong. Polish it up, and the thin line of sliver it won't be to...

The issue with sideways photos is that all digital photos are taken horizontal, i.e. long dimension by short dimension; not the other way around. Embedded in every JPG image is a set of information about the photo: date, time, shutter speed, aperture, and a whole lot more including which orientation...

There still out there. Here's the Portland Assembly Plant in the day: oregondigital-fx71c198n2.jpg Here is is today at SE 11th and Division. It now houses shops and the Genealogical Forum of Oregon , which is a remarkable historical library: bff43d905ad924d2e6317d26054f6961.jpg My '15 in front of th...

The Newlydeads at Davis Graveyard this year:
The Newlydeads ready for the night out:

Halloween is perfect for a Model T. I've been adding to the 15's decorations year by year, and it's always a hit. The neighbors have come to expect the "spooky car" traveling the streets. I'm glad I've got Ruckstell low. This will be the second year for the "Newlydeads" in the back seat. I go as the...

Excellent! Just curious - why MOSFETs instead of triacs?

Yes, the wire colors should match the New Day labels. Then double-check your timing using the through-the-hole method you mentioned. The New Day may require bending the rod some. Once you get it right, there's nothing like a New Day. Besides being really reliable, the inter-cylinder timing accuracy ...

Getting back to the original question... I couldn't tell you where the early dry cells were grounded, but do yourself a favor - run a ground wire from the battery to the body, then to the frame, and then to the engine. On my '15, the "connection" from body to frame to engine was intermittent. Before...

Sounds like bushing squeal to me. What weight oil are you using? If it's too light, that can happen. I had a similar problem, which ended up being the triple-gears. I switched to 15W-40, and it's been fine ever since. The rear cam bearing is bronze, not babbitt, so that could be your suspect.

Mark is absolutely right. Get in the habit of raising the spark advance lever all the way up at the same time you turn off the key . I will add to this, don't trust the "measure the timer rod" method of setting the initial timing. Sure, go ahead and follow the instructions in the manual, but follow ...