MTFCA Forum

Hi All,

I'm afraid the leak has returned after a long run, I had turned the 4th main 90 degrees, I have been running an oil screen, would any of you recommend removing the oil screen for the time being as I can hear this can be a contributing factor?

Many Thanks
George

Hi All, Another question if I may, I had the back axle apart last winter (2022/23) as I wanted to check the thrust washers had been replaced with bronze ones, which they had, there didn't appear very much side to side movement of the back wheels/half shafts/diff assembly at that time but today I che...

Many Thanks to all of you for your responses, I will make sure to check each of your suggestions in the coming week before I next go on a drive. I have also now rotated the 4th main at someone else's kind suggestion, and that seems to be working so far today. Thank you again for all your help. George

Hi All, I have found out that the cause of my rear axle oil leaks is engine oil leaking into the back axle and out one of the axle ends. I have followed the kind advice of several people on this forum regarding the installation of the inner neoprene seals - I have also fitted outer neoprene seals. I...

Hi All,

The Speedometer Cable on my 1916 tourer has broken, does anyone know where I can get a replacement suitable for the Ford Special Speedometer?

Many Thanks
George

I was 20 when I was fortunate enough to be able to purchase my first model T, a 1915 speedster, and 23 when I bought my tourer and am now 25. Admittedly I had been bought up in a world of old cars and particularly steam cars, but as others say not all younger people want to destroy a piece of histor...

Hi All, I have just installed Rocky Mountain brakes on my 1916 tourer. I have worked my way through alot of the brake adjustment, but one thing I notice now is that if I brake while in low gear, both the low speed pedal and brake pedal stick to the floor. Also, sometimes when pulling away in low gea...

Thank you to all of you! I turned the roller through 180 degrees and the car started right up, better than it ever has. I do feel a bit of a fool for missing such a simple thing, so I do apologise! The car is a left hand drive model just to note, but that is interesting what Allan says about the rig...

Hi All, I have gone to replace my roller Timer with a new one on my car, I have followed the timing procedure on here but the car will not start, and just occasionally coughs. On checking the rollers themselves side by side, the geometry seems different - meaning when #1 cylinder was firing with the...

Thank you very much all for the responses, they are much appreciated, I will double check all the measurements and probably make up a brass spacer and see what effect that has.

Many Thanks
George

Thank you for your quick and very useful replies, I've been back out and measured the I.D of the gear case which come out as 1.811 and 1.812 left and right side respectively. The gear shoulders come out as 1.806 and 1.807 left and right side respectively. The spider gears and spiders all come out as...

Hi All,

I have just stripped down the axle on my 1916 tourer. I notice that the half shafts with the half shaft gears attached rock up and down against the spider gears. I'm assuming this shouldn't happen - any idea of possible cause?

Many Thanks
George Hounslow

Thank you all for your detailed replies, it is very much appreciated. I did use some black rtv around the flange and did clean the lip, however, is there anything in particular you use to clean the lip with? I apologise for my lack of clarity, the car I am currently working on is my 1915 tourer, I n...

Hello everyone, A while ago I installed a new neoprene half shaft inner oil seal on my 1915 tourer. I installed it as per recommended, having wrapped tape around the keyway, apply grease etc so as not to damage the seal. All was well at first, but after about 100 miles the oil seal is leaking again,...

Thank you all for your responses. I tried each of your suggestions over the weekend, except swapping the wheels over. Nothing appears to be rubbing, the wheel fits securely, and the handbrake works as before when tested. I attach a photo, which hopefully shows that the brake shoes are just visible. ...

Hi All, I have just replaced one of the rear axle seals on my 1916 Tourer, and have refitted the wheel. However, despite having it on and off a few times and rechecking the fitment of the keyway, there is about an 1/8" difference as opposed to the other side, and I can see the edge of the brake shoe...

Thank you for your prompt replies, I have looked at the pistons too, but as I am not rebuilding the engine (it was rebuilt, along with the rest of the car, before I bought it) I thought the head might be an easier option, so long as it would fit. Are there any other advantages to the domed pistons o...

Hi All, I have just been looking at the high compression heads that are available, and they are listed as suitable for 1918-27 cars. My car is a 1915 tourer. Is there some reason which means the head won't fit in? Surely there is slightly more room with a lower head? Or am I missing something? Many ...

Thank you to everyone for their suggestions, they are much appreciated. The problem turned out to be a loose connection on the power in feed in the coil box! In the end the wire came off completely, so of course the engine just died. Having re-soldered the connection all is well again, no coughing o...

Thank you all for your suggestions, they are much appreciated. I will check each of them and let you know how I get on!

Thanks again.
George

Hi All, Since rebuilding my gearbox a couple of months ago I have had a strange thing happening with my 1915 Speedster. When the throttle is fully opened, or even 3/4 fully opened, in high gear, generally on a hill, the car starts miss firing and sometimes coughing and spluttering. If I drop into lo...