MTFCA Forum

You have to consider the weight of the transmission when shimming. When it’s assembled to the engine vertically it will be OK BUT leveling out the engine on the engine stand will cause the transmission to droop. This does happen. What to do??? If you have it at .025 vertical level and when you retur...

Very nice advertising brochures pinpointing Model T closed cars for women!

But I thought the Coupes were for Doctors!!! The add says the Coupes were for fashionable athletic women!!

Eventually Ford came along with a “better idea” in 1919. After a few broken wrists, arms, wrenched backs, and forgetting NOT to over advance the spark the light bulb came on.

And yes if a T is tuned up and running correctly hand cranking isn’t that hard but for some it wasn’t always that way.

Hey Rich. Was your Coupe as mutilated like the one pictured? It could be rebuilt but it would be a piece at a time to do it and patience. The one pictured surely has some splintered and broken wood. If the driver got out of the car without being cut up by the glass they were lucky!! I’ll bet that on...

Another T product that’s being offered online as a “fits all”. Sold as a 1908-27. It doesn’t fit all and manufactured by folks who don’t have correct information about Model T’s. Definitely not made by knowledgeable people. Same type of thinking that all Model T’s were black.

It’s a reminder that Model T’s are 100 year old technology! They don’t have real brakes in forward or reverse! Some of us learn the hard way!

I just clicked the X on the corner and it disappeared. Most any page of advertising or etc “pop up” has one. Since this conservation is about pop ups this would be a good way for swap meet reminders for each month. They would up easily seen at the first and once you see them hit the X and go on. It’...

So how did the eclipse MTFCA event turn out. It was advertised on the website for a good while. Any updated?

Nothing much else going on here in the country other than the porch light coming on and then going off a few minutes later. Attached is a photo taken in 1997 of my 1919 Roadster taken at a friends house. He was a gas pump and sign collector who wanted a picture on my Model T parked next to his gas p...

We just saw the total eclipse and now it’s lighting up. Took about 3 minutes. It’s a neat and amazing view. It’s now 1:40 CST as I’m writing this. One of the local stations covering it said it was a fast 4 min and it was! And a few months for the buildup. Life goes on. Here’s a photo our daughter to...

It’s gotten a lot of hype down here in Texas but not as much traffic as expected on the highways. Some places that are supposed to be gathering places so far not getting filled up but maybe it might be in other places. As of this time the totality is supposed to be about 15 minutes and last about 3....

Just letting you know that a “professional “ paint job can be nice but sometimes it can come out looking like plastic and not authentic. Some don’t like hearing that by the way but it is your car to fix like you want. It can come out nice but not looking right. Way too much glassy and slick. And or ...

Go to Wal-Mart, auto parts stores, Dollar stores etc and buy their store brand 10W30 and rest assured it will work just fine. It’s a world of difference better than any motor oil that was used in the Model T era. Don’t spend your money on exotic brands that have this and that in it and try to please...

A very simple check: Jack up the front axle using two axle stands. Put the car in neutral. Simply turn the wheel back and fourth and it if turns pretty easy your OK. Once you do that and if it’s doesn’t turn easily you can go from there. Unless your car has a front end that has issues it’s a typical...

How soon we forget when were growing up in the 50’s and 60’s what we did without and not thinking any thing about it. No auto AC most of the time and vent windows. No power windows, No power steering, These convinces were optional equipment. Nowdays our modern cars come with these things as standard...

Jack up the front end and see it you can turn it. Then you will know if there is somthing wrong. Turning a T when it’s sitting still isn’t easy to begin with. Even a 40’s or 50’s car without out power steering isn’t easy to turn without out moving to begin with. Are the front tires a little low in p...

The running board carriage bolts were probably painted over at the Ford factory. They didn’t slow down production. I doubt the original carriage bolts had any painted color on them.

The Facebook page had this posted as a 1927 traffic jam but not sure sexactly. Expanding the page I can see what looks like a 25 or later T coupe halfway down on the right next to the curb. The T’s if there are very many must have gotten hot if that was a summer photo! It looks like it was a big mes...

Is the steering column from a T? It’s been mentioned but the steering on the car must have been tough. The bigger wheels and tires sure wouldn’t have been easy to turn without a modification somewhere in the front end. But they might have had to live with it.

Are the wire wheels early V8? If they are I wonder how they mounted them.

Looks like that would work. The Pre-War dedicated section is a good idea that should draw very well. Thanks for taking the time to do this. When the announcement page gets finalized that’s the time to start promoting and get the word out.

If you notice the diagram doesn’t show which terminal of the dash main switch the wire goes to or maybe I didn’t see it but hope the earlier post will guide you. Good luck!

Here’s an earlier post from the 2008 forum that has all you need for the wiring information for the dome light. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/71182.html?1226178064 In the comments there are suggestions where to run the hot wire and there also might be something in the Ford service manua...

That’s good advice. The old bent up parts, cracked blocks, transmission covers, manifolds old radiator tanks and outlets should be saved to practice repair jobs. That’s how you learn to do your own repairs. Painting and refinishing is the same way.

If you can find another that’s great but I wouldn’t throw that one away. It can be straightened. Straighten it cold mounted in a stable bench vise and take your time. No one is making them and that makes it worth saving.

Maybe some type of brake light switch? I’m trying to figure out how to mount it on the frame but what else could it be?

Wow! Wouldn’t that be something to have the Bullnose streamlined hood and radiator shell on a restored brass radiator T at a car show these days! Or would you dare! The purist folks would collapse!

It would be interesting to know if any of those kits survived to this day and time.

Here’s a photo of a T with a aftermarket radiator or is it just the shell.

Thanks for the reply and getting the word out these days would be through the MTFCA website and the Duncan swap meet information mentioning Antique and Pre War vehicles. Of course next year the information should have been out by then for any kind of noticeable success. Or so it would seem.

Surely by now the organizers of the Duncan Swap Meet know that the Chickasha Pre War meet is shutting down. It would be nice if the antique and PreWar stuff could be in one area or as much as possible. Seems like it’s a larger place than Chickasha if I was reading their information correctly. It wou...

Anybody know if the TMS swap meet in the Northern part of Texas has dedicated spots for prewar cars and parts? It’s a large meet that’s for just about anything and T clubs could get together if it’s allowed. Just a thought. I was thinking there were classic car meets at Chickasha. Do they still have...

Even if they have a rusted through place or two they can be repaired. You could get a piece of sheet metal the same gauge and solder on as a patch. A perfectionist wouldn’t like that but when you’re looking for a good usable tank it would be worth it for some. Some T parts aren’t being reproduced an...

Todd Your car is like a lot of others. It’s all Model T. Henry Ford was building his cars with parts that would fit more than just one paticular year. Some will interchange to be sure and the improved metal firewall was one of them and others that came along earlier and later. He would use parts whe...

Norm. I have a friend I worked with many years who built up a 63 Ford step side PU with his son while his son was still in HighSchool. He put a built up 302 Ford engine in it and and spent several thousand on it. He gave it to his son on High School graduation. A year later his son traded it for a n...

Besides the Indian test pattern here’s two more TV logo’s of days gone by. I don’t think these would be acceptable these days.

I agree that the times of yesteryear are days gone by as far as swap meets are concerned. The time is coming when antique cars will be less interesting than the later old cars because the later cars from the V8 era onward you can drive more safely and possibly get out on more main roads. Plus the re...

With more pictures and other viewpoints it does appear that the Chickasha swap meet was doing pretty good this year. Maybe not like years ago but pretty good. It does seem there would be more than enough interest to have a swap meet in this area somewhere. The southern states have enough old cars be...

In your picture showing the engine it looks like there is a clip on the bottom bolt firewall support not being used. The loom wire on the generator side of the engine runs along sort of under the hood shelf. Sort of! On T’s that I’ve seen over time the loom becomes greasy and roughed up after many t...

Here’s a earlier thread on wire routing on a 1920 wood firewall http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/372657.html?1373246850 Your 1919 T may have a low cowl metal firewall installed on it sometime in the past. This was a fairly common practice for the 19-23 T owners to install a metal firewall...

It’s a fact what the above posts has brought out that needs to realized by Model T enthusiasts and especially our newcomers. As much as we want them to be and myself included is we really do spend more time rebuilding, restoring and using much BETTER paint on Model T’s than Henry Ford ever did. The ...

HI STEVE. THIS IS EXACTLY THE REASON THAT MYSELF AND MORE THAN A FEW OTHERS DONT GO TO OLD CAR SHOWS FOR ANTIQUE CARS AND MODEL TS. THERE IS ALWAYS THE PURISTS WHO WILL GO CAREFULLY OVER A MODEL T THATS A RECENT RESTORATION AND RUN IT DOWN BEHIND YOUR BACK AND ROLL THEIR EYES TO COMPLAIN BECAUSE ITS...

A worn bushing and kingpin can cause that. A T chassis that wound up in its last days used as a trailer would have worn down front end parts and the spindles were the first to show wear and overuse.

I’ve wondered why Ford didn’t use the Ford logo in the latter T years. Probably something to do with saving money since Model T’s were on their way out. I have a mid year 24 Coupe I restored several years ago. I’ll check to see if the block has Ford on it. I can’t remember. I do have a 25 block for ...

Prices have changed for sure. Makes you wonder what he paid for the 1910 or11 T he bought in 52. In those days people probably didn’t think much about a T but very little.

It could be that your block is an aftermarket block not specifically made by Ford. A LOT of T parts were made by aftermarket folks. Your block is probably an aftermarket block that was used to replace the Ford block previously used. In other words the engine number came off the original Ford engine ...

Yes! A 28-29 Model A pickup is a tight fit. I rode in a Model A PU in a Texas A tour several years ago and my wife’s cousin and myself were pretty tight in the front seat. Model T’s and A’s are not real roomy by any means. A 20’s-30’s Dodge or Chevrolet is a bit roomier and a Touring would be better...

I remember reading to retard the spark when shutting down here on the forum. But after I read it I had already removed just a bit on the back of the flapper. That did the trick. The timer worked fine BEFORE I slightly ground off the flapper back a little when I noticed at times the spark lever would...

I agree with Thom. Somebody wasn’t looking what was going on and almost killed somebody. Maybe the insurance companies are working things out.

Here is an earlier post on the Anderson timers. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/248233.html?1321903892 Frank Fenton started rebuilding and making them several years ago. I remember seeing him at Chickasha years ago and buying one from him. I still,have it on my 24 Coupe but have New Days...

Is the top long reamer a Ford reamer? What would it have been used for other than the mains or camshaft. Or is it long enough for that use. Doing a search on ebay and other sources it seems the company did variations of reamer sets. If it was a specific Ford T reamer set would all the reamers have a...

The 6th photo from the top with the kids sitting on the front of the T shows the front spring pretty much flat. I don’t think the total weight of the kids is much more than 300lbs. Probably should have had more leaves in it or it had a broken spring or two. All the photos are neat to see of past tim...

I have a 1926 Western Auto Ford supply book and it’s not listed in that one. There are some similar timers of different makes but not a New Day. It’s interesting that the New Day lasted all these years and the others didn’t. Must be a good timer. I have them in two of my cars and a few spares I pick...

The Singe family did a good job to restore the car to its original style. It looks like it had demountable rims and 17-25 electric headlights on it when they found it. It’s like lots of the brass era cars that had the later T “upgrades “ put on them to improve them! Since the article was written in ...

The article says the car in the article was restored. Anybody know what happened to it? The family still own it? It’s probably been sold to another owner years ago.

I started to post earlier but didn’t. The above post from speedytinc is almost the way I did the hookup on my two T’s. The other T I have is a runabout that didn’t give much trouble like the 24 Coupe and 21 Touring did. The cable puller I use stretching long runs of barbed wire fencing is what I use...

As far as the letter number AN7754 is concerned using the assumption that the letter A represents 1 in numbering the alphabet and the N represents the number 14 since it’s the 14th letter maybe the number would be 1147754. It’s a March 1925 number IF the letters mean 14. Maybe this doesn’t mean anyt...

For me if I wanted to go faster in an old car I would find a 32 to 40’s Ford and build up a flathead or get a small block Ford 289, 302 or a Chev small block 327 and get after it!

After that I would get back in my Model T and have some Model T time.

Here are some Ford catalog sales photos from Bruce McCalley and Mel Millers resource book From Here To Obscurity. It would seem that a Ford TT parts and body book would have more specific information but it seems the aftermarket bodies varied on what they had on them. Hope these photos give some typ...

If I reminder your TT was real nice find that was an original cab TT. If that’s correct what kind of visor came with an original TT. Or did one came with it at all?

Have you considered moving the front seat back? The Model T Ford service manual section for the 26-27 Model T’s shows how to move the front seat back for the Tudor sedan and Coupes but the Fordoor sedan isn’t mentioned. Maybe it can but I don’t know as I don’t own the so called improved car as Ford ...

A Model T crumpled that flat in photo no. 9 must have had a severely injured driver or a dead one. Unless he jumped out ahead of time the windshield glass and the steering wheel surely cut him up pretty bad. Just thinking about it I look at the torn up T’s and see how life was a 100 years ago. Maybe...

Number 9 photo from the top looks like a fairly new Touring that wound up in the gulch. I wonder how it got there by looking at the supposed bridge that may have collapsed ??? Or was it a bridge or road at all. Maybe the T was pushed off and just left. A close look shows it’s resting in a pool of wa...

Wow this truck is a real deal survivor. It’s great that it hasn’t been out side in the weather! These days finding one that’s an original truck that still has the owners own upgrades for his business isn’t real common. I’m not to sure how much I would do to the body would be easy. For sure take lots...

Here’s a higher end gas station with no-knock gas and a 1920? T Coupe filling up. The sign says General Motors Research center. Were they using it at this paticular station for testing the product?

That’s a good idea! That’s better than tying up the joint with a piece of string that I used!

I have repaired or cleaned up original starter switch’s on my 3 T’s plus a couple more I’ve picked up as spares. I’ve read on the forum about the newer repos and how cheap made they are. Your post in repairing and rebuilding one is a good thing for folks who want to save a repo switch and how to mak...

I own the later Model T’s in the 17-25 era. As with the later T’s and comparing when certain things were done to bodies with the Brass era T’s you’ll find that it’s not an exact science. There was a general way of building the T bodies and the way it was done and dated. Different Body manufactures m...

The 8th photo from the top of the center door seems to be of a pretty new T. The owner added the after market headlights and at least another tail light. The car does look like it hasn’t been driver to long by the looks of the still really nice looking body finish.

The opening comment ( said to have running engine but froze and broke the head) is an automatic price drop for me. If it is a correct chassis with the 27 rear end it’s a no more than 900.00. Just my opinion. The 26-27 frame itself in good shape is not real common as they once were. That’s a plus. Ho...

Intriguing photos for sure! The 6th photo from the top of the 26 T has to have a slight dent in the hood after the girl gets off the hood. I’m assuming it must be a new car for the owner and she’s showing off her new ride. If it didn’t get dented it’s a lucky car. And after looking closer at the sup...

Anybody know what year the T is in the first picture? Looks like it was a Touring or what’s left of it.

Your like me! Seeing that very early brass T and wondering again if they bought it in decent shape and then pretty much ragged it out! But who cared 70 to 100 years ago!!

The first picture tells a Model T story!
I’m wondering if they bought the T new and then used it down to the very end on the farm. That’s a very early brass era T that didn’t last to long. Maybe they bought it that way for a good deal and it lasted a while longer on the farm.

Welding takes practice to begin with! After high school in the 60’s I went to a 2 year welding school and have a degree in Welding technology. That was 50 years ago and welding technology has advanced somewhat. But what hasn’t changed is the techniques and heat control in stick arc, mig, tig and oxy...

Anybody else have an idea what the car is? Not a Ford or Dodge evidently. But a car around the same size.

Isn’t that a Dodge? The front hubcap looks like a Dodge Brothers.

Yes there is a wood block behind the steering as a spacer and by the way 2 wood blocks were used behind the engine pan arms. The main difference in this entire post is the main chassis stability in the frame itself and the importance of the front end components to be tight with no movement. The 3 wo...

That’s a slick looking speedster in the 3rd. photo! Wonder what kind of body it was.

We had a local brake shop in town called Brake and Clutch supply in the 50’s thru the 80’s. The owner was an old car enthusiast and loved T’s among a few other brands. I can remember visiting the shop and learning about Model T’s and transmission lining would come up. He had all kinds of linings he ...

I dont think any Model T’s ever used wood in the main frame or front end itself. Maybe I’m wrong and others can make a correction. BUT in the quest for speed you would want stability and using steel is the best material to use. Maybe there was wood in the very early days of autos but not later. I do...

Welcome to the Model T world.
As posted above the brass nut needs to be tightened up a bit. That’s a good start to figure things out. If you don’t already have one it’s a good idea to but the Ford Service Manual. There is a wealth of information for Model T’s. Good luck.

The add for the John C. Nagel after market Roadster and Touring bodies is interesting. Was there a noticeable difference in them from Ford factory bodies? Does anyone have a car with one of his bodies? Or would they know for sure?

I repaired hogsheads in similiar fashion as mentioned above. I did find another one that wasn’t broken anywhere and used it later. It’s probably best to repair them as I don’t think they are as plentiful as they use to be. 30-40 years ago you could always find one with out any broken ears. The last ...

Wow sorry about the clarification! The she was my Mother! I had thought I added that. When going back to check spelling and before I post things I recheck the post. It’s fixed now.

Here’s a colorized 1920’s downtown Waco post card. Horse and buggies, street car, early cars and a few Model T’s. At the very end of the street was the town square. My Mother got her drivers license in 1925 for .25 cents at the age of 14 on a Saturday at the square. She got to drive the Model T tour...

Roofing contractors that do flat roofs, commercial bldgs, or in lumber yards usually have pieces of roofing tar laying around where it’s been stored and moved around.

The no. 2 photo is really interesting. The guy who is using the Oxy-acetelyne torch is busy with his job. Right in front of his work area is a rack full of all kinds of hammers. There must be around 20. I can remember my Grandfathers boxes of tools he used at his blacksmith shop before he moved into...

Keith Your picture of the welded up area on the inside of the block looks very familiar! I have a 1919 Runabout that had a cracked block just like yours but in-line with no.3 rod instead of no.4 rod like yours. My block suffered a thrown rod probably like yours sometime in the past. I used a brass h...

You mentioned it’s just the body in nice condition. It begs the question if the frame and the most of it is still in the area where you got it.

I think that’s a deck lid for the 17-22 Coupes. The later 23-25 Coupes lid was a little smaller. In other words the Coupes with the doors opening from the front have the larger deck lids.

Rajo is right. The information about the correct ring gear screws has been out there for several years. If I remember the vendors list that in their sales information.

Resale value of a half and half T? Well it is a T but which one.

You mentioned you have the engine torn down. Has the mag ring ever been replaced? If it looks like it has good insulation it may be OK. If the insulation is an oily black color it probably hasn’t. When everything is easy to get to in a tare down that’s the time to do it. After 100 years with origina...

Didn’t the Australians T’s use a grey on T’s ? Seems like I read some countries did. It really looks good I have to agree.
Didn’t Ford use a gray color on the 27 and Model A?

Nice looking T! Sounds like you’re getting some good advice about a T and that’s great! Always be careful around other modern cars and remember your T doesn’t have real brakes like our modern cars do. But I’ll bet you already know that. Congratulations on owning a real part of American inginuity and...

Let’s all hope that Steve will be careful and mindful of his Dr’s advice.

Another idea if you use mouldings to cover areas where the sheet metal pieces meet you might do it the way Ford did it on the closed cars in the mid 20’s. When I was restoring my Grandfathers 24 Coupe some of the moulding around the cab and sides of the body was loose and raising up. I found that th...

It’s an adjustable main cap. A old trick to get you by with an original cap is to use a rat tail file and slot the holes enough to move it in closer. The best location to do this is with the rear main to lessen the end play.

Maybe from an aftermarket speedster body from the T era?

I learned a few things along the way as a maintenance mechanic when building sheet metal AC duct work and large exhaust fan housings. When attaching metal panels to framework MAKE SURE THE FRAMEWORK OR SURFACE IS LEVEL. ESPECIALLY WHERE THEIR IS CONNECTING JOINTS. FROM TOP TO BOTTOM AND SIDE TO SIDE...

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