MTFCA Forum

Lang's sells a kit so you don't need the hole in the block. https://www.modeltford.com/item/6299CL.aspx

Maybe I'm being too picky and particular here, but what "worries" me is where, or who from, did you buy this car in which none of this was explained? Unless you have a bill of sale with said number listed on it, this number SHOULD be matching on the title, or you're in for a boatload of grief. To m...

I used these two items for the right side of my '25. It works fantastic, I used a double contact socket so I now have tail light/stop/turn on both. https://www.modeltford.com/item/6593TL-R.aspx https://www.modeltford.com/item/8785R.aspx If it weren't so cold and snowy out I would go out to the barn...

https://www.modeltford.com/item/3016.aspx

Take your pick. https://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/spark ... del_t.html

I've found this kit from Lang's works just fine. It contact the hogs head so you get some heat. I still get a little condensation on humid days, but no icing. https://www.modeltford.com/item/CARB-FILT.aspx

I've been using non synthetic motorcycle oil since rebuilding my T. It it working well with the Turbo 400 Clutch and the engine. So far no issues and the clutch is working well.

If you question the spokes, replace them. As for the threads, you may be able to clean them up with this. https://www.modeltford.com/item/2815T.aspx

Available new and in aluminum but not cheap. At least now available. http://www.snjparts.com/Model-T-Gas-Tan ... JviQpQxdP0

I've been using a non synthetic motorcycle oil in 10W40. Motorcycle oil is formulated for use in applications where the engine and transmission share the same oil and for use with wet clutches. So it made sense to me to use in it my T.

I'm really wondering about the 100 psi expected with a Z head. I would expect more like 60-65 even on a fresh motor with the test being done at starter cranking speed on a warm motor with the throttle wide open and no extra oil added to the cylinder. Or.....(Maybe I need a new compression gauge). A...

Hank, glad everyone is OK. Straightening that sheet metal will be a good learning experience for your apprentices.

Ben doesn't do e-mail or computers. Call him at 770-938-3376 He does great work.

I used this system when I did my Tudor. https://www.por15.com/

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Tue Aug 11, 2020 11:09 am
IMG_5392 copy.JPG
Adam Doleshal uses this gasket and says it's superior, so I'm going to give it a try. It also costs a little less than copper.

Steve, where can you get these? I look at a couple vendor sites and it isn't listed. Also searched on the name and part number and came up empty.

So the 3-speed box has neutral, as well? I'm figuring front disc brakes would a necessity with this modification. Rock Mountain, AC, or the modern disc brake setup is all you need. Front brakes would take considerable re-enforcement of the front axle support system. I have the modern Layne Warford ...

The instructions that came with the kit (anvil, punch and drill) for the tube rivets on the brake shoe have the head on the metal side, and the tube is on the lining side. Rivets are installed after the lining is drilled and counter sunk. https://www.modeltford.com/item/2566RVTL.aspx

Ive been using these for years. Charges both 6 and 12 volt batteries. https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/m ... maintainer

I used one like that many years ago (late 1960s) Great for grinding valves. The vertical lever mover the wheel in and out and the lower crank the engagement to the valve face. The seat grinding setup I don't see but it is like an electric drill with stones and a guide to stay centered on the seat.

Do a web search on "coast to coast Model T Ford" This is one of the links and there should be coverage on this forum as several forum members participated. https://ecoxplorer.com/2019/06/vintage- ... -to-coast/

Lang's has them back in stock for all tank types. I asked for one with my last parts order and one arrived.

Don't have one handy to measure, but Lang's has them for $0.25 https://www.modeltford.com/item/2574.aspx

Does it continue to drip or stop after a bit? If it stops after a short time it may be you are set a bit rich and it is fuel coming back down from the intake manifold. Does it immediately stop when you turn off the fuel valve?

e-mail sent

Agree Steve. Calimer's did the wheels for my 26 and I did the natural finish also. He does great work.

Part of a leak down test is to listen for where the leak is from. Listen at the crankcase will tell you if it is ring leakage, and listening at the intake and exhaust points will tell you if it is a valve leakage.

Please consider keeping a functioning magneto. The engine runs so much better on magneto than battery.

Looks like Coker has them. https://www.cokertire.com/wheels/21-mod ... -60mm.html

Looks like Snyder's carries them. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Prod ... ood-wheels

If either tank needs lining some radiator shops do an excellent job. They will hot tank your fuel tank, then apply an ethanol resistant liner compound. They may cut a couple holes to inspect for complete coating then seal the holes. We have a shop in Huntsville AL that does this.

Get them from American Vintage Rim http://mclarenmfg.com/rims.html I have purchased rims and felloes from them and they are excellent quality.

Not sure this test works on a T, but on modern cars to test a u-joint lock the parking brake and going from forward to reverse. So engage the parking brake then lightly press low pedal , then reverse. If it is the u-joint you would hear a clunk as the slack is taken up in the joint.

Save yourself a bunch of frustration and just replace it. https://www.modeltford.com/item/6201.aspx

I have a friend with an air condition Model A. Probably easier to to do the A than the T. Also the A has twice the horsepower of the T so it would probably drag a T down quite a bit running AC.

Here's a picture of Howard E. Rollins, Jr. driving a 1915 touring in RAGTIME that's been "backdated" to about 1909-10, even though logically story wise, (if you know the history of what's going on in the movie), it doesn't make sense. This particular shot isn't in the movie. This scene was filmed i...

Depends on how far you are willing to travel. Dan Hatch rebuilt my engine and did a great job. He is located near Birmingham AL. Cost is dependent on how many refinements you want to include, such as a Scat crankshaft.

Just checked e-bay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VNT-ORIG-1919- ... SwlBteqwFj

Do tell Bill. Always learning Dallas. I guess Bill hasn't seen your question. Rotate the focus assembly 90 degrees. Do this by drilling a hole at the top, punching out the socket and rotating the assembly 90 degrees to line up with the new hole. We used loctite bearing and sleeve retainer to hold t...

I don't what to start a big discussion, but I run a 160 degree thermostat in my thermosyphon system. All plugs run the same color with no fowling. Also using an IR thermometer, the head temperature has practically no variation from rear to front.

Joe,

Paint codes are listed here http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm PPG does cross reference the Windsor/Ford royal maroon. BTW, it is the same color as Model A Windsor maroon. It is the color I used for my 26 Tudor. Not cheap, but available.

I believe they will function equally well in either orientation. So if it isn't a show car, does it really matter?

OMG. I looked on an old forum from 2015 and one guy said to loosen the 4 bolts on the starter and then rock back and forth. Guess what?!?! It worked! Now I will put it back together and hope it stays fixed! Oh, and you wanted a picture, but I don't know how. Could you tell me? Glad that worked for ...

No, the engine did not budge with the starter. I stepped on the button and did not hear anything happening other than the coils buzzing. I will try jacking up the rear wheel If it will roll in neutral, jacking up the rear wheel won't make any difference. As others have stated it probably is a jamme...

As far as I know, no one is making 26/27 cowl fuel tanks. So no new production of the fitting the sediment bowl goes into. You could salvage one from a bad tank, or fabricate your own. The thread is 1/2 inch pipe thread. You would have to make up some type of collar to fit the pipe thread piece to t...

You can find paint codes here. http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm

So why to they need to be tapered? Today, they make Heli-coil taps and inserts that work great and ensure center at the bottom and for the top you can simply drill it out on a vertical mill an press in a bushing of the correct ID diameter of the kingpin bolt. I've seen this done many times with out...

The other seven valves came and I removed a few more of the old ones. I find that some valves have as little as .006 clearance with the adjustable lifters "run all the way down". Not knowing how much adjustment is available in the lifters but knowing that the valves will "sink" some as they seat in...

Bad switch or wiring. the later switches (oval plate in the dash) had issues on their contacts. And IIRC no one repoped these (someone should have!!!). The earlier switches were easier to rebuild, and the coilbox switches were EXTREMELY easy to rebuild It may also be a wiring issue - wires on T's v...

or just make a simple voltage divider. Two resisters of the same value, and tap from between them. Just be sure they can carry the current.

Call Ben Martin 770-938-3376. He doesn't so e-mail.

I don't think it is possible to over grease the universal joint. If there is too much, it will just work its way out. Every few hundred miles I take my pneumatic grease gun and pump a complete tube into the U joint cavity. I don't see any grease ooze out when pumping grease in. However it may be pos...

It is there. Look harder. Above the blue border, either "Mark Forums Read" or "Mark Subforums Read"

Not sure what the android issue is with the phone, but transferring pictures to the PC is easy. With your USB cable (probably removable from the charger) just connect the phone to the PC. It will just appear as another drive. Then use you file management tool on the PC to copy pictures to the PC.

or check the block for good threads.

cdromtom wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 01, 2019 2:04 pm
HF sells a set of spline sockets that work well on square nuts. Inexpensive

I picked up a set of 8 point sockets. Unfortunately I don't remember where I ordered them from. The were not any more expensive then the usual 6 or 12 point sockets for hex nuts. A web search should result in a source.

Original nuts are square. That said, I did change mine over to hex. Easier to deal with.

Try this. Works great. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... key=218206

This is the Model T instruction. Note: If you have a 26/27 reproduction ammeter it is not accurate enough to perform this procedure. You can place an older style or other more accurate ammeter in line between the VR and harness battery wire to make the third brush adjustment. Voltage regulator.pdf

Well I seem to have found the answer. The URL changed to this https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/ from the original bookmark which had the long name of the club as part of the URL.

When trying to access the forum from my bookmark, I get the 404 error. But when I get to the forum login page from mtfca.com it works. I updated my bookmark and tried the updated bookmark and still get the 404 error. What the heck is going on? A friend of mine is having the same issue.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 16, 2019 3:58 pm
How ya doin' Herm ? I believe the "Z" heads had the Z up there, didn't they ?

I have a Z head on my car. There is a Z by the water outlet, not an R.

I have wrapped my stainless pipe with exhaust wrap. I wouldn't wrap regular steel as the wrap can hold moisture increasing the rust rate of the pipe. I also stapled automotive insulation to the bottom side of my floor boards. Doing both make a big difference.

The Chevy system is non infallible. I had a keeper fall out on a tour. As noted a T doesn't run well on 3 cylinders.

Could you post a link to one? All of the vendors I've looked at I can only find pullers for wood wheels. https://www.modeltford.com/item/2800WP.aspx Thanks, but as I understand it that puller is for wood wheels only and I am working with wire wheels. I ordered the puller listed in my original post ...

paddy1998 wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 10, 2019 4:08 pm

Altair wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:11 pm
No that puller will not work, there is a Model T rear wheel puller available at most vendors.
Could you post a link to one? All of the vendors I've looked at I can only find pullers for wood wheels.

https://www.modeltford.com/item/2800WP.aspx

Since my car has a Warford, the tube has to be installed upside down to access the grease cups. I installed zerk fittings. I use a regular grease gun to lube the drive shaft bushing, but an air grease gun for the u-joint. I can pump a full tube of grease into the u-joint in very little time.

Just may have to check out one of the location. https://www.fordsgarageusa.com/

Have you checked with Dale at Wheels Though Time? Besides wonderful bikes he has a few very interesting cars. This one would make a great addition, and Dale keeps old iron going.

For not much more you could get hydraulic brakes. These also work well in backing and in the wet. If these were available when I restored my T it is what I would have purchased. http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/merchant ... ode=Safety

A long time model T owner in my area Bill Robinson. He was very helpful in helping bring my 1926 Tudor back to life. I'm lucky to call him a friend.

Use a multi strand wire from the magneto. Current flows on the surface of wire. The multi strand has more surface area so it will conduct better than solid wire with less resistance.

Larry25tford wrote: ↑
Tue May 28, 2019 5:20 pm
What does that mean?

If you have a PC, highlight the long password then press Crtl and the key C at the same time (that copies) then click your cursor in the password box and press Ctrl and the key for V at the same time and that will past what you copied

Ben Martin may be able to rebuild what you have. His home number is 770-983-3376. He doesn't do e-mail, just telephone and regular mail.

Zinc is really needed when you have very strong valve springs. A Model T has very mild springs, so a high concentration of Zinc isn't needed. Any oil you get today is better that what was available "in the day". My preference is a high detergent non-synthetic motorcycle oil. That type of oil is desi...

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Mon May 27, 2019 11:06 am
I believe WE are in the discussion area.

Originally posted in Forum Support

This should be in the discussion part of the forum. Anyway, have you checked the wiring to the regulator? Is you ammeter working correctly? Did you install the regulator per the instruction in adjusting the third brush?

I have a Coats 220 manual tire changer that I purchased for motorcycle tire changes. I have plastic covers for the working ends of the tire bar and the clamps. Works great for the 21 inch wire and split rims. I just use that three leg expander on the split rims after mounting the tire. Unfortunately...

What is the angle of your front axle? If it is correct, then leave the wishbone alone. If incorrect, then it may need to be straightened.

See http://www.mtfca.com/cgi-bin/discus/sho ... post=78296

see viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3583

My guess is something is out of balance in the drive train. Unfortunately to find it will probably require a rebuild of the engine and transmission by someone that really knows what they are doing. May just be the flywheel is out of balance, but there could be more issues with the crankshaft and oth...

Scott_conger wrote: ↑
Sat May 11, 2019 10:10 am
John

great railcar!

Not mine. Just a picture I have.

Below the save draft, preview and submit buttons are an options and Attachments tabs. Click the attachments and select the image(s) you want to add to the post.

This should be in the general discussion forum. First thing I would check is for an intake manifold leak where it feeds cylinders 3 and 4.

For the valve guide, see if you can get K-line installed. http://www.sbintl.com/KLine.html There may be an engine machine shop in your area that installs them.

It should be fine for the T. For the heavier vehicle, I'd place blocks about half way on the ramp for support to load and unload. The blocks would only have to be on each side, not all the way across. Also allow for the trailer to settle as you load so a bit of a gap between the blocks and ramp shou...

No, I run an antifreeze mix(50/50) year round in the heat of Alabama. Never had an overheating issue. Never get more that half way up on the moto meter. If you want to increase cooling capability, add some of this. https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-radiator-additives-and-windshield-wash-fluid/radi...

The front bumper doesn't interfere with hand cranking. I went with split on the back of my Tudor to allow easy access to the spare. However I don't know if the solid rear would prevent access to the spare. The extra weight is minimal and I like the "protection" factor.

You might want to list the networks that blacklist so the administrator can address the issue.

has anyone run into issues with thrust and a scat crank? I have done engine work with stock cranks with no issues , installing a scat crank for the first time in a 26. block has new babbit,line bored and radius cut on babbit ends. when crank is dropped into block 3rd main journal has no clearance i...

OK that means changing the oil see when draining if there is already water in it. The amount of oil is how much? 3,4 liters? 4 liters is fine. Any extra will quickly leak out. When you do drain the oil you suspect has water in it jack up the front end do get the oil in the dippers to drain back. Re...

I haven't had great luck with the plastic gear. I'm currently running one of Dan McEachern's bronze timing gears and it is quiet. Key factor is getting the spacing correct from the crankshaft gear.

Agree Tom. This is a great idea.

If engine RPM is dropping, it isn't the high speed clutch. All the other items you mentioned are still possible. First I'd check for adequate fuel flow to the carb and proceed from there.

Actually this is the page I get when I go to the site.

You could also do a personal loan, or an equity line on real estate you own. The interest on an equity line may be tax deductable so check on that with your tax person.

I don't know what if anything has changed, but I got in on the first try today.

AdminJeff wrote: ↑
Sun Apr 07, 2019 9:43 am
Try clearing your browser cache.

Also try this link to clear cookies
ucp.php?mode=delete_cookies

Jeff

Jeff,

That didn't work

I still get this page, which isn't the first page of the site.

I used rubber cement when I did my headlights. Strong enough to hold in place until assembled, and can easily be removed at a later date.

tdumas wrote: ↑
Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:50 pm
Check your front axle kingpin threads. You may need to helicoil them,

Better yet find someone with a Stevens front axle tool and set it up correctly.

The last few days I've had to enter my username and password twice to get in. The first entry just takes me back to the original page and I have to click login again. Do you guys have any idea what may be causing this? I get in, but shouldn't have to login twice to do it.

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