MTFCA Forum

I don't what to start a big discussion, but I run a 160 degree thermostat in my thermosyphon system. All plugs run the same color with no fowling. Also using an IR thermometer, the head temperature has practically no variation from rear to front.

Joe,

Paint codes are listed here http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm PPG does cross reference the Windsor/Ford royal maroon. BTW, it is the same color as Model A Windsor maroon. It is the color I used for my 26 Tudor. Not cheap, but available.

I believe they will function equally well in either orientation. So if it isn't a show car, does it really matter?

OMG. I looked on an old forum from 2015 and one guy said to loosen the 4 bolts on the starter and then rock back and forth. Guess what?!?! It worked! Now I will put it back together and hope it stays fixed! Oh, and you wanted a picture, but I don't know how. Could you tell me? Glad that worked for ...

No, the engine did not budge with the starter. I stepped on the button and did not hear anything happening other than the coils buzzing. I will try jacking up the rear wheel If it will roll in neutral, jacking up the rear wheel won't make any difference. As others have stated it probably is a jamme...

As far as I know, no one is making 26/27 cowl fuel tanks. So no new production of the fitting the sediment bowl goes into. You could salvage one from a bad tank, or fabricate your own. The thread is 1/2 inch pipe thread. You would have to make up some type of collar to fit the pipe thread piece to t...

You can find paint codes here. http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm

So why to they need to be tapered? Today, they make Heli-coil taps and inserts that work great and ensure center at the bottom and for the top you can simply drill it out on a vertical mill an press in a bushing of the correct ID diameter of the kingpin bolt. I've seen this done many times with out...

The other seven valves came and I removed a few more of the old ones. I find that some valves have as little as .006 clearance with the adjustable lifters "run all the way down". Not knowing how much adjustment is available in the lifters but knowing that the valves will "sink" some as they seat in...

Bad switch or wiring. the later switches (oval plate in the dash) had issues on their contacts. And IIRC no one repoped these (someone should have!!!). The earlier switches were easier to rebuild, and the coilbox switches were EXTREMELY easy to rebuild It may also be a wiring issue - wires on T's v...

or just make a simple voltage divider. Two resisters of the same value, and tap from between them. Just be sure they can carry the current.

Call Ben Martin 770-938-3376. He doesn't so e-mail.

I don't think it is possible to over grease the universal joint. If there is too much, it will just work its way out. Every few hundred miles I take my pneumatic grease gun and pump a complete tube into the U joint cavity. I don't see any grease ooze out when pumping grease in. However it may be pos...

It is there. Look harder. Above the blue border, either "Mark Forums Read" or "Mark Subforums Read"

Not sure what the android issue is with the phone, but transferring pictures to the PC is easy. With your USB cable (probably removable from the charger) just connect the phone to the PC. It will just appear as another drive. Then use you file management tool on the PC to copy pictures to the PC.

or check the block for good threads.

cdromtom wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 01, 2019 2:04 pm
HF sells a set of spline sockets that work well on square nuts. Inexpensive

I picked up a set of 8 point sockets. Unfortunately I don't remember where I ordered them from. The were not any more expensive then the usual 6 or 12 point sockets for hex nuts. A web search should result in a source.

Original nuts are square. That said, I did change mine over to hex. Easier to deal with.

Try this. Works great. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... key=218206

This is the Model T instruction. Note: If you have a 26/27 reproduction ammeter it is not accurate enough to perform this procedure. You can place an older style or other more accurate ammeter in line between the VR and harness battery wire to make the third brush adjustment. Voltage regulator.pdf

Well I seem to have found the answer. The URL changed to this https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/ from the original bookmark which had the long name of the club as part of the URL.

When trying to access the forum from my bookmark, I get the 404 error. But when I get to the forum login page from mtfca.com it works. I updated my bookmark and tried the updated bookmark and still get the 404 error. What the heck is going on? A friend of mine is having the same issue.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 16, 2019 3:58 pm
How ya doin' Herm ? I believe the "Z" heads had the Z up there, didn't they ?

I have a Z head on my car. There is a Z by the water outlet, not an R.

I have wrapped my stainless pipe with exhaust wrap. I wouldn't wrap regular steel as the wrap can hold moisture increasing the rust rate of the pipe. I also stapled automotive insulation to the bottom side of my floor boards. Doing both make a big difference.

The Chevy system is non infallible. I had a keeper fall out on a tour. As noted a T doesn't run well on 3 cylinders.

Could you post a link to one? All of the vendors I've looked at I can only find pullers for wood wheels. https://www.modeltford.com/item/2800WP.aspx Thanks, but as I understand it that puller is for wood wheels only and I am working with wire wheels. I ordered the puller listed in my original post ...

paddy1998 wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 10, 2019 4:08 pm

Altair wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:11 pm
No that puller will not work, there is a Model T rear wheel puller available at most vendors.
Could you post a link to one? All of the vendors I've looked at I can only find pullers for wood wheels.

https://www.modeltford.com/item/2800WP.aspx

Since my car has a Warford, the tube has to be installed upside down to access the grease cups. I installed zerk fittings. I use a regular grease gun to lube the drive shaft bushing, but an air grease gun for the u-joint. I can pump a full tube of grease into the u-joint in very little time.

Just may have to check out one of the location. https://www.fordsgarageusa.com/

Have you checked with Dale at Wheels Though Time? Besides wonderful bikes he has a few very interesting cars. This one would make a great addition, and Dale keeps old iron going.

For not much more you could get hydraulic brakes. These also work well in backing and in the wet. If these were available when I restored my T it is what I would have purchased. http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/merchant ... ode=Safety

A long time model T owner in my area Bill Robinson. He was very helpful in helping bring my 1926 Tudor back to life. I'm lucky to call him a friend.

Use a multi strand wire from the magneto. Current flows on the surface of wire. The multi strand has more surface area so it will conduct better than solid wire with less resistance.

Larry25tford wrote: ↑
Tue May 28, 2019 5:20 pm
What does that mean?

If you have a PC, highlight the long password then press Crtl and the key C at the same time (that copies) then click your cursor in the password box and press Ctrl and the key for V at the same time and that will past what you copied

Ben Martin may be able to rebuild what you have. His home number is 770-983-3376. He doesn't do e-mail, just telephone and regular mail.

Zinc is really needed when you have very strong valve springs. A Model T has very mild springs, so a high concentration of Zinc isn't needed. Any oil you get today is better that what was available "in the day". My preference is a high detergent non-synthetic motorcycle oil. That type of oil is desi...

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Mon May 27, 2019 11:06 am
I believe WE are in the discussion area.

Originally posted in Forum Support

This should be in the discussion part of the forum. Anyway, have you checked the wiring to the regulator? Is you ammeter working correctly? Did you install the regulator per the instruction in adjusting the third brush?

I have a Coats 220 manual tire changer that I purchased for motorcycle tire changes. I have plastic covers for the working ends of the tire bar and the clamps. Works great for the 21 inch wire and split rims. I just use that three leg expander on the split rims after mounting the tire. Unfortunately...

What is the angle of your front axle? If it is correct, then leave the wishbone alone. If incorrect, then it may need to be straightened.

See http://www.mtfca.com/cgi-bin/discus/sho ... post=78296

see viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3583

My guess is something is out of balance in the drive train. Unfortunately to find it will probably require a rebuild of the engine and transmission by someone that really knows what they are doing. May just be the flywheel is out of balance, but there could be more issues with the crankshaft and oth...

Scott_conger wrote: ↑
Sat May 11, 2019 10:10 am
John

great railcar!

Not mine. Just a picture I have.

Below the save draft, preview and submit buttons are an options and Attachments tabs. Click the attachments and select the image(s) you want to add to the post.

This should be in the general discussion forum. First thing I would check is for an intake manifold leak where it feeds cylinders 3 and 4.

For the valve guide, see if you can get K-line installed. http://www.sbintl.com/KLine.html There may be an engine machine shop in your area that installs them.

It should be fine for the T. For the heavier vehicle, I'd place blocks about half way on the ramp for support to load and unload. The blocks would only have to be on each side, not all the way across. Also allow for the trailer to settle as you load so a bit of a gap between the blocks and ramp shou...

No, I run an antifreeze mix(50/50) year round in the heat of Alabama. Never had an overheating issue. Never get more that half way up on the moto meter. If you want to increase cooling capability, add some of this. https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-radiator-additives-and-windshield-wash-fluid/radi...

The front bumper doesn't interfere with hand cranking. I went with split on the back of my Tudor to allow easy access to the spare. However I don't know if the solid rear would prevent access to the spare. The extra weight is minimal and I like the "protection" factor.

You might want to list the networks that blacklist so the administrator can address the issue.

has anyone run into issues with thrust and a scat crank? I have done engine work with stock cranks with no issues , installing a scat crank for the first time in a 26. block has new babbit,line bored and radius cut on babbit ends. when crank is dropped into block 3rd main journal has no clearance i...

OK that means changing the oil see when draining if there is already water in it. The amount of oil is how much? 3,4 liters? 4 liters is fine. Any extra will quickly leak out. When you do drain the oil you suspect has water in it jack up the front end do get the oil in the dippers to drain back. Re...

I haven't had great luck with the plastic gear. I'm currently running one of Dan McEachern's bronze timing gears and it is quiet. Key factor is getting the spacing correct from the crankshaft gear.

Agree Tom. This is a great idea.

If engine RPM is dropping, it isn't the high speed clutch. All the other items you mentioned are still possible. First I'd check for adequate fuel flow to the carb and proceed from there.

Actually this is the page I get when I go to the site.

You could also do a personal loan, or an equity line on real estate you own. The interest on an equity line may be tax deductable so check on that with your tax person.

I don't know what if anything has changed, but I got in on the first try today.

AdminJeff wrote: ↑
Sun Apr 07, 2019 9:43 am
Try clearing your browser cache.

Also try this link to clear cookies
ucp.php?mode=delete_cookies

Jeff

Jeff,

That didn't work

I still get this page, which isn't the first page of the site.

I used rubber cement when I did my headlights. Strong enough to hold in place until assembled, and can easily be removed at a later date.

tdumas wrote: ↑
Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:50 pm
Check your front axle kingpin threads. You may need to helicoil them,

Better yet find someone with a Stevens front axle tool and set it up correctly.

The last few days I've had to enter my username and password twice to get in. The first entry just takes me back to the original page and I have to click login again. Do you guys have any idea what may be causing this? I get in, but shouldn't have to login twice to do it.

A distributor was probably installed for several reasons. The magneto no longer functions so a distributor was installed, a previous owner removed the magnets, thus no magneto, or the previous owner didn't want to use the individual coils. Also a DC coil doesn't cooperate with AC current. It messes ...

Oldav8tor

Just use the bearing in the same race it ran on. As long as you keep the bearings matched you will be good.

Thanks for sharing the pictures. It is good to hear the second season will be starting. I enjoyed season one and was hoping it would continue.

I would not recommend using the old outer races. It is best to replace with new bearing and race. The outer race may look good, but the wear on it may not match the angle of the new bearing.

Thanks for the friendly reception My English is not that good but the 1926 is the same as the 1927 Model T or did the 1926 not have this carburetor? I have a problem with the first gear at the beginning he was still only now no adhesion is there anymore. Only second gear and reverse functions Are t...

If nothing else, go to the Aerodrome. The WWI aircraft are a sight to behold. If they have enough in attendance they put on one heck of an air show flying the vintage air planes.

With that vaporizer carburetor it may be a 1927. Take a look at the engine and frame numbers. The frame number will be on top of the right hand frame just in front of the passenger seat. Post that number and someone here can tell you the date it was made. Also top wood kits are available from the US...

Agree Dan. Questions about a trailer for your T should be considered on topic.

Change when needed. These test strips will tell you when it is time. https://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-311519 ... B000MIUJMO Only work with the green stuff.

Still available are rough service bulbs. see https://www.topbulb.com/light-bulbs/rough-service

Jim,
Thanks for sharing that. A great looking car. Wish I afford one like that. The town I grew up in a guy collected Packards. I've like them since then.

Yes, home made breather. I'd attach a long hose with a loop in it and attach the upper end up high to prevent water entering the rear end.

On other sites, the "Remember Me" function is only for the user name and you must log in to the site each time you visit. If you use Firefox, just click in the user name box and it will appear. If you don't log out, the site should kick you out for security when you close the browser or go to anothe...

Jeff,

Just got that error trying to view some topics. Hit back button, then the link again and got to the topic.

2slow wrote: ↑
Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:07 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs&t=3s

Good study. Heat best followed by liquid wrench and then home made acetone and atf.. The expensive Kroil, not so good. Thanks for posting the study.

50% ATF, 50% Acetone.

jagiven wrote: ↑
Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:50 am
When the Starter was rebuilt, I installed new cork gaskets for both the Starter and Bendix cover. I could double check that the screws are all tight.

Did you use any sealant? Also paper gaskets may be better in those locations. Cork compresses and my cause a leak in those areas.

I wouldn't recommend the neoprene o-ring on the drain plug. Getting the plug tight would damage the o-ring, and if you don't damage the o-ring the plug won't be tight enough and may fall out, losing all oil. stick with the copper gasket. As for the other leaks, just chase them one at a time. The Ben...

My grandfather had a T when he was a young man and he used to say that if it wasn't dripping oil from some location, it needed oil. I guess that still holds true. My plan is to spend some time under the car periodically wiping up excess oil. Just put drip pans under the car where you park it. Other...

Hi Jeff and Chris. Not one forum not available today. Thanks for the good work.

I was able to get in just now. Usually if I don't log in I can see everything. As soon as I log in I get the forum not available.

Also got that error at 4:52 PM central time.

I'm also having that issue.

Install the hand crank or a starter and yes you can perform a compression test. You sure won't need to make sure the throttle is open!! Do remove all spark plugs to make it easier to turn over on either the starter or hand crank. You will only have compression on the cylinder where the gauge is inst...

Is there a number stamped on the switch? It will be small and hard to see if there.

For threaded fittings as in to the fuel tank and carburetor use this. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php?clickkey=218206 The fitting doesn't have to be tight and it still won't leak. For straight compression fittings the rubber fuel hose pieces work well. Available from ve...

Agree. Much more capable site.

4 sticky posts aren't bad. Also they are good for reference for folks just joining or getting up to speed. On a forum where I'm a moderator one of the sections (yes it is that big) has sticky topics for most of the first page.

I only use a patch plug on tubeless tires. The location of the hole is near the edge, but I think far enough away to try. The tire has to be removed from the rim as it is applied from the inside. I've installed several on motorcycle tires. see: https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Pat...

d stroud wrote: ↑
Thu Jan 17, 2019 3:06 pm
Yep Jeff, I've done all of that, still don't see anywhere to add my email address though. Dave

Click on your name from the forum page, Look under"User Control Panel" "Profile" then "Edit account settings"

We have also had quite a few problems with Private Messaging with messages not sent or sitting in Outbox. Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought with phpBB that messages sit in the Outbox until they are read? Once read they are moved to Sent. Correct Walter. Also the recipient isn't notified by em...

Also that 10 amp charge is not good for the battery. I would recommend adjusting the third bust down to a nominal voltage ( I think some recommend 3 amps) or changing over to one of the Fun Projects voltage regulators. I've always use a voltage regulator so I'm no expert on cut outs.

You may want to send him a PM. I doubt he has time to look at all the topics.

This is one area the powers to be closed to non members of the Model T club. While you can't post a reply you can send a PM to the seller by clicking on there name or the balloon after the "contact" in the information box on the right. Interesting, I don't see a reply button either and I'm a member...

Just to see if a jpg can be posted. This one is 6.6 Mb. Looks like they can on the forum, but so far not in a PM.

Look below the text area of the private message. There is an box "add files" but apparently jpg files aren't allowed. That is something Chris will need to fix. I can see that PDF is allowed but I don't know of other formats that can be uploaded.

Only good way I know for sure is to open it up again. A new sealer is designed for gear oil that might be better than Ultra black for this application. Something like this. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/per ... /7740016-P

What you are suggesting isn't a bad start. If you have some kind of portable space heater aim it at the T. That also might help. If you have a small electric heater, place it under the engine and perhaps cover with a blanket or moving pad. Something to help retain heat. Hope you can get her going.

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