MTFCA Forum

I'm confused on the photo of the 1927 pickup! The pickup box on this car appears to be an early 1926, With the forward stake pocket all the way up.

Are you sure it isn't a 1914 body?

The first thing I would do is determine if your Ruckstell is correct for the year of your car. Check where the driveshaft roller bearing housing mates up to the rear end. That will tell you if it is correct for the year of your car. Don't forget there are big drums and small drums.

I wouldn't have these tubes for a gift! I have spoken with the owner, and he refuses to make them correctly for a MODEL T! True, the rubber is thicker, but has Pierce Arrow valve stems VULCANIZED to them. I tried to explain how the tubes were done in the old days. Deaf ears! I wish they would go bac...

I have seen the development of the so called Rocky Mountain Brakes from the beginning! The first series which were more like real Rocky Mountains, actually had the rear part of the brakes correct, but did not do his research, and wrongly thought all equalizers were the same! How wrong could he have ...

I agree with you Brian. Stay with it, you will find them. Even the correct common 1913 hubcaps are getting hard to find.

I started collecting original bulletins back in the 1970's. It took me two years to build a complete set. The newer design covers pictured above came out in the mid 1920's I guess, but have seen few of them. What irritates me is when the MTFCI reproduced the bulletins they didn't do it like Ford did...

Forget canvas! Classtique uses the almost correct Ford type material.

Pay attention to the original question!

Get rid of them!

I've talked to the owner of Blockley twice, and he refuses to make the tubes the way they used to. If he would supply them with only the hole for the valve stem, we could put our original valve stems in like they used to do.

You forgot the RH housing!

I've not found any evidence of plating on either of my 1913's, but I'm wrong! My understanding is they were either zinc or galvanized plated.
What a job it's going to be to get them right!

You had a chance to buy a local known original car since new for a decent price. You decided to pass. Those kind of deals don't appear every day. Have fun with your new toy!

I would like to do that someday in one of my cars.

Steve restored this car on my property. He is well aware of what is correct, and what is not. He chose to do it his way. Enough said.

This event was the final gathering of the Model T Club of Southern California, of which I have been a member for over 60+ years. It's sad, but it happened. I have found a new bunch of friends in the Horseless Carriage Club of Southern California.

The brush on the new ones is wider than the original. Why?

There is a very good article in the latest AACA magazine on N R S. It is about four pages, and very well done.

I like keeping my T's original, but, I've yet to find a more reliable timer than a New Day.

A good 1926-7 brake drum can be machined down to a narrow drum. Just be sure to leave the lip for the driving plate.

I see the cover for the Canadian set has silver lettering. I've not seen that. I guess that is Canada only?

There is a photo of a near new 1925 front view. It looks to me like the car is probably a 25 model produced in 1924 or early 1925. Sometime in mid-year 1925, my guess, is Ford went to the 1926 front spring which added a leaf, and lowered the car 1" at the same time. Does anyone know when?

I would assume the bulletins were mailed to the dealers. In one of the last posts, is an example of the late bulletin binder design. I'm not willing to take apart my binder to measure the length of the shoe string, but I would assume they might be available still.

I always enjoy Wayne's comments.

I prefer to see the one Langs has sold for years. If it was made once, it can be made again.

The guy on the right looks like Tony Wolleson.

Ford didn't offer a boot in 1923-25. I made one for my 1925 roadster, but didn't put the center common sense fastener in the middle for the strap.

My guess would be the 1920's.

Did they ever produce Model T cars at this plant? I was closed probably in the early 1960s and was torn down in the 1980's. I could still see the Ford Motor Co. on the side of the building until the end.

Forget it! Leave the poor car alone, and be happy with it. If you wish to have a 1915 Coupelet, go find one. They show up once in a while.

Where is a bowl used on a Model T? Haven't heard of them!

You did it again Tom! Keep them coming!

Check your owners manual, and the parts book for your car.

I thought they were called terminal blocks?

If Ford could make the original long pipe, I think Langs, Snyders, Chaffins should all band together and get them made correctly. I had 50 made a couple of years ago, and they weren't made the original way, but with my limited $$$ they were the best I could do. They sold fast!

I think those were used on English Fords back in the fifties.

I have yet to see a brochure on the 1925 Pickup.

Since when are coils getting hard to find? Read posts above!

I've been by the building many times on Flourenoy tours, and didn't even notice it!

Waste of time!

I'm flying in to Baltimore, and renting a car. Looks like it will be larger than ever, plus there is a wonderful Mexican restaurant in town.

Strange top.

I doesn't matter, since they are painted. Just be sure to plane them down to the correct thickness.

I don't know why I didn't get the email. If you still have the bracket I'm interested. Computers aren't my thing , so maybe that's way.
Larry Smith

Great deal Dan. Do these have the 5/8" head, or the 9/16"?

Today, that inner tube would be nice to have just to get the proper valve stem from it.

In picture #2, it is rare to see 13 windshield halves the same size. I have both, and both of mine are Rands.

Fabulous photo. A coupelet with the top down no less!

I hope it turns out well. I've been disappointed the last two times I've gone.

I read the article on the green 1911, which I remember from the past. Two things I dislike that the new owner did. That oval rear window, looks so out of place, but it is his car. Next are those English tires. They are ugly! I wouldn't want them for free! The best looking tires are Firestone, and th...

May have been taken in the 1920's.

Dan, do these have the large head or the smaller head?

I have no proof, but I believe only the models made in 1912 were pinstriped, with perhaps a carryover into early January.

I hope you get what you need. The open cars have two clips on each side of the windshield, and they are both different.

This morning, I was pleased to welcome Steve Jelf to my home. Kim Dobbins picked him up in his 1924 aftermarket body truck. I showed them my cars, and we talked about a lot of stuff for about an hour. It's good to see Steve in his old stomping grounds where he grew up.

I have a 1925 that I made curtains for. I used NOS curtains for patterns, and also have the Ford prints for them. I got the material from Classtique.

I like the old design, because it really looked period correct. I'm lucky to have one on all of my cars.

The labels have been finished for over a week now. Email me your address via the club system. Please remember to send me a check. I've only seen one so far. Also, in your email indicate how many you want to buy. The photos posted above are the real thing!

Body style would help!

He grew up in my area. Neither me or Kim Dobbins have heard a word.

I was lucky. I bought some for my cars before he died.

I've sold quite a few. Don't wait too long, and then you will forget about it!

How could photo #9 be a Chevrolet dealer, with a coil tester mounted on the workbench? I would like to think it's probably the same dealer as the earlier photo above.

The adhesive I used with outstanding results is 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Adhesive, and it comes in a spray can. I got it a Home Depot.

I'll get some soon. They are already made, but I need to get the width adjusted a bit.

A Model T is not a Model T if it doesn't have four coils in the coil box!

I made a new top for my '13 roadster from an original. What I've not been clear on is did the side curve back on the 1914's like the '13s do, or could it have been done for just awhile?

Those lens are pretty cool. I was able to buy two NOS ones several years ago. I don't see them often.

What year pickup bed? Ford or aftermarket?

i think those plaques are stupid! Anyone that can do basic math can figure out a cars true age. Why clutter up a nice car's dash or firewall with that nonsense?

They show up on ebay once in a while, NOS.

I have three T's that I drive regularly, and all of them have Ruckstells. Wouldn't own a T without one.

There are still parts of the old Cuesta Grade visible from the new 101 road. I always like to look at those portions, and wish the state would open up some of it for us old car guys to drive on, especially for taking photos. The road was cement.

I'd like to buy a tube from them, but the owner refuses to sell tubes with a rubber stem I can cut off. Ford NEVER used the metal valve stems they are supplying. If you want to throw your wheels out of balance, their tubes are a good start!

What is wrong with the original improved oil line Ford supplied?

Steve grew up in the same city I live in, Lomita.

I have exact reproductions of the often missing or messed up KW labels for inside the lid. The price will be $6.00 each including postage. I have four original boxes, and none of them are even close to perfect. These even have the original type paper they are printed on. Satisfaction guaranteed. I n...

Lower or upper?

I've still got a few 1914 and later pipes. For the 1913's they don't work as well, because the the muffler is placed differently. Keep in mind they changed the muffler bracket.

Yes, that's the one I'm looking for! There is nothing wrong with my hub. It's just the blade that broke off. I'd buy that fan you have pictured if you would sell it.

I don't think the fiber washer I mentioned is a thrust washer. I think it's a spacer used internally. I had a bunch made a few years ago, and they are .125 so needs to have the thickness reduced to the correct thickness. Sometimes because of wear they need to be a bit thicker. The dowel pin holes ar...

I would be pleased to have a copy of that bulletin! I believe I have the rest of the set. Contact me directly and I'll be happy to send the the money for your efforts.
Larry Smith

I've had problems with repro looms in the past, and I've had to take my original looms to my local Y&Z's company to be made correctly! They even wove the Ford tags into the loom!

Thanks for all the positive comments. As Kim noted, I need the type used in 1913, and is clearly shown in the above parts list. My fan hub is about the best I've seen. I cotter pin holding the fan bracket on, but somehow vibrated loose, and that's what caused this problem. I think old age has someth...

I hope this will do for now. I can always try again.
Larry Smith

I took two photos, a front and a back. Can't find the front. Let me know if you want me to try again. I'm not good at this stuff!

I'm sure not many of us collect these, but they are similar to the Ford Service Bulletins, same format etc. The binder is also similar to the service bulletins, but says Ford Sales Bulletin. The first issue is Saturday April 5, 1913, and the last issue is Saturday July 29, 1916. I could sure use tha...

I have a similar condition 14 touring, someone scraped the paint off the wheels, but they are solid. $18,000. Has original upholstery. It's a late model with a speedometer.

Thanks Ken. I will try to get a photo for you today.

I enjoyed the first photo. Yes, it's a very early '13, and is typical of those cars made in 1912. I think that car may have been around for awhile, notice the striping is all but gone on the body and wheels. And, what is that T shaped device over the radiator? Notice too, the lack of the windshield ...

Need one pre 1920 fan blade in perfect condition.

Inside the bell of the internal housing, is a fiber thrust washer, originally red in color. It is .110" thick. I have never understood why Chaffin never made these correctly.

Pay attention to what Steve says! The sedans, and pickups use a 9 leaf rear spring.

I would like to buy four NOS pre 1920 fan blades.

I do mine almost exactly like Dan Treace does, except, I make the area that goes through the choke lever slightly less. I never have one come out. What I like about this design, is it can be removed from the car countless times without affecting the fit. I also use welding rod.

I've thought about this for years. No X will give you more bearing surface, and that's the way Ford did it.

I think Blockley tires are ugly, and they don't put the proper valve stems on their tubes either. I've had good luck with Firestones. I only wish the current tubes were of better quality.

I have two sets of tools in the original tool rolls, bags, and none of them were painted. I have no real early rolls, so don't know what they did then.

I don't know where I got this, but I have it down for Fri May 3, and Saturday May 4.

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