MTFCA Forum

Got the same message. Guess they decided not to wait until 1he 15th. They had to consider that folks would be coming from many states.

I will echo what Ricky said. The only reason I favor the I over the E is that I wanted to use my magneto.

Toon,
Thanks for your reply. I just used one of the fiber spacers used on the brass top with same result. The capacitor is connected between the upper and the lower bridge. Are brass tops wired differently than regular coils? Thank you.

After rebuilding a coil I throw the used points in a drawer. I seem to have trouble throwing away something that old. Now, when the upper bridge needs to be elevated for proper alignment I snip the brass holes from a used upper bridge. They make an excellent shim. FWIW

Over the years, I have rebuilt many model t coils with good results I replaced the capacitor and tested with both hcct and ecct. I just installed new capacitors in four brass top coils and I can not get a reading or function on any of them. My ecct shows the capacitor as "poor" The side terminals te...

Hi Scott I don't think that piece would be hard to liberate and wouldn't even upset the rich/lean adjustment. My carburetor has never been used. I found another Swan carb. This one is on a model T manifold and is identified as Swan no.534-B It was made by Yale and Towne in Conn. The A1F was made in ...

I have an A1F on a Swan manifold. Its the reverse of the one that you pictured with the intake flange reversed as well. The lever that you circled appears to be brass or bronze. I could loan it to you if that would help.

I used one for 35 years on a stock 1917 motor. I used a stock copper gasket from Langs or Snyders. That head made a big difference on a 1917 couplet.... a heavy T.

Ours is now 1.80.9 here in east Tennessee. You all have us beat!

A small benefit from all of this virus commotion.. Gas at our Exxon station is $ 1.84. And no place to go!

Thank you. Now that I knew what to look for, I located a set of straight ones. They seem to be one inch shorter. Is that correct? It will make it a lot easier to adjust my rear brakes !

Does anyone know the difference between 17 to 25 T brake rods and 26,27 brake rods ? Thanks for any help.

Roger was one of a kind. So many memories: On the Saratoga tour, we returned to the motel one day and were met with a chalk outline of a 'body' in the parking lot - the beginning of one of Roger's schemes. It was "Bob" (a dummy) who had been run over by a Model T. I don't remember whose car it was. ...

Karen and I are signed up .Looking forward to it.

Happy birthday Larry. I do like F.J.'s card.

I am 'upgrading' a '26 Roadster Pickup that I didn't restore. After difficulty with the fit of the hand crank and a repro apron, I got a nice apron on eBay. This one has the hole for the screw into the engine mount and the extension where the crank and spring goes. It didn't line up. The new reprodu...

Thank you Norman. I had been turning the u-joint while putting pressure on the slider and nothing happened. I turned the u-joint a tiny bit, reached down and pushed the slider and it went right in. The shifter fits perfectly and now it's all ready to paint. Thanks again! Dave

I assembled a Ruckstell about a year ago. I "thought" that the sliding clutch gear (P146) slid all of the way through the gears. I left the shifter hole open as I needed a new shifter to replace one with a crack. Now I find that the sliding gear will not go far enough in to fit the new shifter. Is t...

Thanks Charles . Yours is the same but with all those words on the reverse. Since the silver jacks were made in Alliance, they must have been used on fords in the early teens.

Does anyone know that they are made by Buckeye ?

I've never seen a date attributed to the block-lettered early Ford jacks. Charles Little's detective work has dated the jack with FORD DETROIT in block letters as 1910 vintage. My FORD DETROIT jack is lettered "Buckeye Alliance Ohio". My question is - what year is the "other" black lettered FORD jac...

Thank you Larry. Its identical to ours except ours says Alliance, Ohio on reverse.

Mine is the same number shown on the first picture. It is stamped on the right side.

Karen and I will be in space CI-10 on the south Chocolate Field (not too far from Willard Revaz). Look for a Crosley sign on the tent. A few of the things that I am bringing are: 2 wooden coil boxes, a front plate Bosch distributor (restored), a pair of nice early front 30 by 3 inch wheels with earl...

I have 2. One is similar to the first photo with square ends. It also has threads for an oiler. The other is like the set depicted on E-Bay. I will send you either or I can bring to Hershey with your name on it.

Mike, here is the link. It's in the 2015 Forum. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/506218/523488.html Since then, the body has been completed and is in primer. I just finished the upholstery and am preparing to begin refinishing all the sheet metal for the car. I feel fortunate to have found all 1...

A few years ago , I posted many pictures of a 15 Runabout that I rewooded.

The head is identical to the one that was on our Coupelet that is now in the Piquette Museum. It was driven many miles with excellent results. It is a Jensen head, made by Rod Jensen in Chicopee Falls, Mass. It was advertised in the Vintage Ford magazine in the 60's.

Karen and I will arrive Saturday as well.

Some other things that I packed for Luray: NOS set of TT nickel hubcaps; restored and bright nickel-plated steering gear case and cover, show quality; nice '15-'19 set headlight buckets. WTB - I need a '26-'27 Ruckstell housing. I would trade an early style restored Ruckstell housing for it or I wou...

Brad if you are coming to Luray I will give you a set.

I'm getting excited about driving up to the Luray Swap Meet. Some of the things I'm bringing to sell: 1911-12 Kingston Coilbox with coils, excellent original; '13 K-W restored coilbox with coils; set of nice early front wheels in primer with early hubs; two brass E&J taillights; set of brass E&J hea...