MTFCA Forum

I understand Restoration Supply has them, but they are too thick?

Try harder!

I am considering attending, but need the dates. I have been many times with R.V., but that is no longer possible.

You have the wrong waterpump. A waterpump was made with two mounting holes in the side for the 26-7 horn. It allows you to use the standard mounting of the horn and coilbox.

Try Jon Anderson in New York. It may take you five years to get it however!

Why not try the Ford method? It has worked for hundreds of thousands of cars!

Everyone has their own way of mounting tires. Do what works for you. Hard tires and flaps are difficult to work with. I use a big rubber mallet, and TT truck tire irons. I also use old stock metal valve stems and bridge washers. The current valve stems are too large, and the bridge washers are not m...

I've been working with a friend on 1914 frame bracket to firewall bolts. First, the bolts seem to be a type of step bolt, possibly of Fords design. The head diameter of these bolts appear to be 7/8-15/16 diameter about 1 1/2" long. That head size seems a little large, but checking a known unrestored...

I've not had a problem finding originals. Why bother with a repro?

That is a neat idea. I've been driving T's for over 50 years, and have not seen a need for this part.

The last two times I've gone, I've been disappointed in the turnout. It's only about half the size it used to be. Plane fare, car rental and hotel, really adds up.

I'm sure you meant wrench. Not all 26-27's used the new style filling plug.

I believe the castle nuts are 11/32". I doubt if you will find any of those easily!

What irritates me is the people who spell Ruckstell with an X.

I went through this. I have a 1925 and rebuilt a 2 screw switch as good as new. With the plunger extension on it, it wouldn't come through the floor far enough to do the job! I finally used a old stock late style switch which has been a good one.

The best data is in the Ford Manual that came with the cars originally. Don't pay attention to data from elsewhere.

Here is a photo to two examples I have of early eyelets. They are both brass and are early. How early, I don't know. One is 1 1/4" across, and the other is 1/1/8 across. I'm pretty sure the longer one is earlier than the other, but when?

I would look for another part. Yours is pretty bad. It is a late one too, made by Eaton.

The rust makes it difficult to identify. Does that firewall have four holes for the patent plate or two? Two is a 1925. Late 1925 firewalls have no bell crank for the carburetor, but the two holes for it are still there.

Tulare. That's the name of the town, and the county.

Look in your roster. The two biggest cities near Templeton are San Luis Obispo, and Paso Robles.

This company has gone downhill since the new owner obtained it from Greg Goveia. All I have ever asked is the radiators to be made as good as Ford made them. Even Greg cut some corners, mainly riveting the side panels to the top tank. Solder doesn't do a good enough job. The radiators have to be abl...

Want to buy NOS or good used authentic upholstery nails. I'll buy a box if they correct. These may have been used up until the one man tops?

I have originals. They can easily be installed in a day if you have all the parts. It does not hurt to be mechanical. No special tools or shims required.
Too bad no one makes them.

Yours is the 1916 type.

The 5/8" are too big! Wouldn't it be nice if someone could design a tool to roll over the edge on those, to make it a 9/16"? As I mentioned above, when I removed the 7/16" I previously had used, the difference in appearance of the new 1/2" was a definitely an improvement, plus they are available on ...

Ford made 15,000,000 of these cars. If there was a problem with the front end, it would have been found.

So what is wrong with a New Day?

This post is only for dye hard T guys. I've been searching for years for original 9/16" upholstery nails, and have not been successful. They only used these on the end of the binding on early cars possibly until they started using hidem welt. I was using 7/16 until recently. The rest of them are 3/8...

Some of Gail's research is in the latest Model T Judging Guidelines, and I believe when I was reading it recently it says the heads are 13/16".

I have a friend who is having the same problem. I'm not sure if the bolt you have pictured is correct. From what I've been able to find out the head diameter is 13/16. Ford bolts appear to be a cross between a carriage bolt and a step bolt.

All of my cars are registered in California, and they say what the car is. What's the problem?

The best combination of a Ruckstell and Rocky Mountain brakes is to use originals and forget all these modern modifications!

I believe the Montana 500 boys prefer 23-25 roadsters.

I'm trying to help a friend get his firewall on his '14 installed correctly. I don't feel like pulling anything from my cars to answer his question. So here is one that I believe maybe true. Is an early 5/16 running board bolt the same one that is used for the frame to firewall brackets, 3 on each s...

From the research I've done, Ford did not use hose clamps. I've used mine with no clamps with no issues.

You have a bushing in the driving plate, so you don't really need the extra bushing in the brake drum.

Maybe you should try the classified??????

Apparently there are no historians around who can answer my question!

The current so called Rocky Mountain Brakes are not Rocky Mountain brakes! I've mentioned this many times. The current RM brakes are a copy of the AC brakes that were used on a 1926.

My real question is, did they make Model T engines and gears at Bellevue?

Ford did have a taillamp bracket in 1912. Regarding the Neverout bracket pictured above, I like the blade version, which is like what Ford furnished from the factory. The rest of the license plate part is the same as pictured above. Originals show up occasionally, and are usually $75-$100.

The painting I have is much earlier. My guess is mid to late teens.

From the driving around I've done, the Tulare Fairgrounds is on the west side of Rt.99, on what I believe is the old original 99 before it was bypassed.

It would be nice if someone with foundry experience would consider making these Tee's out of brass. The gas lines being used by the Brassworks are incorrect, and are made of copper. Why would they do such a thing?

Why would Ford need to sell accessory lights when they were already standard? Prior to the 1915 model year, Ford dealers offered conversions for acetylene headlights. If you follow Rootliebs posts as I do, many of the photos show those conversions.

This plant made engines and gears during the Piquette era. I've not seen much if anything on that plant. Does it exist today? Did Ford own this building, or was it a rental?

Steve: The 1925's are quite different than the 23-24's. They called these the wide cowl body, and have quite a bit of metal where the wood used to be.
Ford even made a new design floor mat for these. I sure would like to find an original, but have never been able to.

The picture Keith posted will do the job. I did it. Its is a bit smaller than the original, but will work well. They are available off ebay, and have a China origin. I think I paid $7.00 for two.

Check and double check! The worst curtains I see all the time are the 23-24 lights. It pays do do some research on this question before laying out your lights. That is what Ford called them.

I have an original dealer oil painting of Ford. These were for the Ford dealers I understand. It's a big painting too 32x28. It looks like it maybe from the teens.

Need a good serviceable narrow reverse drum with a decent gear. This is for a friend of mine I'm trying to help out.

It is refreshing to see this kind of an article. Who knew more? Modern so called experts, or Henry Ford?

A number of people in Southern California have cracked reverse drums using Kevlar. It's not the fault of the Kevlar, it's drivers lack of knowledge on how to properly drive the car. The purpose of the bands is to stop the drum from turning. We all know that there has to be slippage when engaging the...

They are somewhat common, but in my opinion, just another junk part. Lets try to keep our cars authentic.

I like ebay because good NOS parts show up all the time. I would never think of using anything other than a good used or NOS shackle for any of my cars. I also use brass bushings. In the past mild steel bushings were used, but there is no need to do that anymore.

The question is, are the copper asbestos gaskets available? Has a substitute been found for the asbestos, and if so are they available?

This is the first issue I felt like reading in many months!

You did a pretty nice job on your car. When you take your time, and pay attention to the details, it really shows. So many black era cars have the rear curtain lights sewn incorrectly. Yours is refreshing to look at!

They could have picked a better example of a Model T.

Why risk your life for a so so respoke job? Send your wheels to a competent wheelwright!

I got a call from Dave at Chaffins, and he informed me they now carry the rivets. I also understand, the rivet heads need to be turned down to match the appearance of the originals. When I installed mine, I put Permatex on each rivet before installation.

I checked Langs, and Chaffins catalogs. Only Snyder furnishes the drive rivets to attach the data plates. How come? I'm trying to help a friend with a Ruckstell. He must buy a package of 100 from McMaster Carr, when our suppliers should be doing the job!

Has anyone ever considered reading the Ford Service book? It's all in there!

Too bad they aren't 1158, I think those are Model A.

Best pictures ever! Happy New Year Tom.

What make of car is that body from?

I appreciate all that replied to my inquiry. I didn't realize how quickly Ford outgrew Piquette, and that Highland Park grew so early.

What was date the last car was assembled at the Piquette Plant?

Most of those pictured appear to be 216 Chev.

The reproduction dust cap posted by Steve Jelf is an original.

Most common sense items were made of brass right up to the end. Murphy was just one of several companies making these. In 1917 these fasteners became nickel plated, but were still brass. A magnet is a good way to choose the ones to use.

Dan McEachern makes the correct rim nuts.

Does the original print give the total length of the tube?

Type in brass 1/4" Tee on ebay. With a little lathe work their tee is remarkably close to the original, It's just a wee bit smaller. I typed in 5/16 thinking the body would be larger. It was .010" smaller.

Even though the parts in Langs catalog look similar, none of the are truly correct.

I don't like the tread pattern used by Blocky. I wonder where they got it from?

First of all this is a classified ad! I have seen a few nos blocks in my lifetime, but there is nothing wrong with a good used block. It depends on what you want. A new block is almost out of the question. If you want a block that is the same year as your car, that's a good start.

Cylinder head outlets and the inlets are everywhere. Why not find a good one and toss the one with pits?

Does anyone know the difference in length between the pre-26 and the 26-7? My guess would be one inch.

A 26-7 drag link is shorter than earlier years. Your problem is probably because you have an earlier drag line.

Better than a Christmas card! Thanks for posting Tom, and a hearty Merry Christmas to you for doing this all year.

You don't need to bother with the 1913 case. Just use a later one. They are everywhere.

I've always straightened them cold, and have never had one re-bend!

You need a front view photo. Looks like it could be for a late 1925?

Don't ever use this type of bearing. They are not worth using.

I did indeed get hacked. I know when I get emails of this type, I always delete them. I hope none of you took this seriously.

When I was selling parts, I also crossed them off the list, because they weren't paying their bills.

The 1925 Ford Service book clearly shows the location of the looms and clips on a 1924.

What year did Ford move the loom from over the top of the primaries to under them? My guess would be 1924?

I bought a can of satin black to replace the semi gloss, and it came out gloss too! The plastic cap was flat black too! I wish Rustoleum would get their act together!

If you are able to change the front cover, replace it with a 1915. The 15 doesn't have the front lip for the felt seal, and looks 100% like the 1913 when installed.

Either one of those choices is good. Be sure to note the bends at the bottom. I had a NOS one I used to copy for mine.

I'm working on my own kit now. I found some Tee's on ebay that I believe when I do some modifying will be the same as original. I'll see soon!

I saw a pair of NOS Ford script somewhere recently, fronts and rears. I think they are $100 a pair.

Rustoleum is having a labeling problem. The caps are supposed to indicate the color. They are not. I bought a can of semi gloss yesterday, and the contents were gloss black. I returned the can this morning, and noticed another can of satin black which has the color cap. I'll see how it goes today? W...

That is not a battery box lid! That is part of the floor of the roadster, for accesss to the battery box lid.

WTB: 1/4" BRASS gas line tee fitting for 13-14 radiator.

I can't believe Lang's would be selling parts that should not be used!

I just put my flag out this morning.

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