MTFCA Forum

Thanks Hank. Im curious what you come up with. If indeed single port heads such as mine were a different color, I find that very interesting. I know it probably doesn't matter to most, but now that I have been researching it, it matters to me. No one has documented this to the best of my knowledge. ...

message sent

Hoping someone has seen an original Fronty head to have seen the color they were painted. I'm trying to get as close as I can on mine if possible for a period build. I found an old post that said they were painted to a similar color as mid-late 20's chevy which was a gray-green...im almost thinking ...

Radial power as backup engine on the sail boat Hank?

Agree with you Dallas, Hank and I have recently had some really great conversations as of late. Truly a wealth of knowledge.

Found a little more info. This is a pic of the seat riser from the car (not in my possession yet). It is meta and has a hole for a starter switch. So according to the sites encyclopedia it should be the earliest of 1920 (as 1918-1919 cars had wooden seat frames, and starters were first introduced 19...

Is there anything else I can use to pin down a date on this body? Or is it just going to be 17- 22

I think some of the pieces that may further ID the year I don't have, but I appreciate any help. Thank You

Also, are doors from '24-'25 interchangeable with an earlier body like mine?

Yes, It has the large caps, but that makes sense being its a low cowl body. Hank, when you say dash, do you mean the "firewall" or are you talking the "instrument panel"? The "firewall" I received with the body is a non stock plywood with a metal band around the top and just down the top curve part ...

I just picked up a low cowl roadster body. Is there any way to figure out what the year is? I can post lots of pics, but I'd just be guessing. Tell me what I should be looking for or you want to see to help me ID it. Thank You forum for your help.

Email Sent. Thank You

Yesterday, I would have been BEGGING you to somehow ship the side panels and back panel to me. But I think I am ok with what I have.

Found! Thank you Hank and MTFCA!

I am looking for a nice, ORIGINAL, not beat up set of nuts (6) that go on the bolts for the main caps. Need to have great threads, no rounded corners and no bent or missing tabs on the castle portion.

Please send a pic and contact me at crazydart400 AT yahoo DOT com .
Thank You

Sacrificial anode to keep the gas clean.

The clamp was loose, and there was an assortment of washers between the nuts and the lower clamp plate, and still lots of room between the pin hole and the castellations on the nuts. Jim, that could be a front mount for a TT (Ton Truck). Somehow one ended up on my '25 car chassis and I have the sam...

***Sold***

****SOLD***
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Normal operating procedures for them. Been happening for years. You can search to your hearts content. I also had heard that one of the major vendors was going to drop them because of all the hassles. Not sure if that ever happened or not.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I*m going to try some different things to see what works. Guess cleaning out my parts washer wouldn't hurt a thing either. Always had an old car smell but its a lot worse for some reason. That right there is a big source. Anything like that is going to create o...

I do not know what to do about the front frame corners. That shape does not look original but I am not sure what shape to make it or how. Both front frame corner sides have the same bent-looking shape. Also the front spring clamps seem to be missing. I don't see that Lang's sells them for earlier t...

It might help to narrow down what the odor is. I have three cars in my garage, and nobody has ever mentioned anything, nor do I ever smell anything. I can tell you if I fire up a vehicle in the garage for more than just pulling it out, then yes, it will stick of exhaust for a day or two after.....I ...

Scott, I don't necessarily disagree with you. But alot of the good running T's I see run 35-40 pretty regularly. They all have been rebuilt in some manner, not all have Scat cranks. My T, personally likes 25-33, I'm OK with that. The next engine will be much more refined. Jim, you probably already k...

I agree with others on checking all the rest of the steering first. Pull the front wheels and pull the tie rod off each spindle so you get a good idea of drag if any. If after all of that you still feel strongly about adding reinforcement, I used the ends of the draglink inserted into some DOM steel...

Good start and you have more to start with than I did. Hopefully that 4 dip pan is good enough to use and not rusted out.

You guys are awesome as usual. That is the info I needed to continue on my calculations. Thank You very much. Hap, bore and stroke, as well as head chamber size, piston - or + volume, and head gasket volume are all needed to accurately calculate compression. Most are satisfied with assumptions and p...

Thats great Kevin! Thank You ----whats the bore diameter on them?

I'm just trying to accurately measure for compression ratio. I don't have a head gasket in my possession at this time. This is information I'd like to pass to my camshaft builder doing a custom grind.

Hoping someone has a overhead head gasket (that would fit an 8 valve head such as a Fronty or Rajo). I am hoping you can measure the bore size and thickness for me. It really would help if you have a used gasket as it's already squished, but I've got a good idea of what the difference would be if yo...

Wow Jim, You sure do get around. This is probably the last place I expected to see you. I have followed you for years with your other cars on Drag Week. Finally met you briefly at Atco last year. Congrats on the car, it looks great.

I for one would love to see flow data on any of these heads. I am trying to find a flow bench locally that would flow my Fronty T head.

No one can ever replace true friendship. I hope you are able to eventually get a T. Hang around here enough and might happen sooner than you think.

Where is the freaking like button! So much good info in this post if your an engine junkie! And Dan, Yes, More Air, More Fuel does equal more power----but only if you can use it all....even on the top end of the RPMs. There is always a saturation point of diminishing returns. If the head flows such ...

To answer your question, you can technically use a "universal" set of wires. But as was mentioned, you could buy the more "correct" looking wire in bulk and ends and build your own. It's really not hard, and I am willing to bet there are youtube videos of it. I like alot of the comments here, some a...

Donnie, I want to congratulate you on the milestone of hearing it run....It sounds GOOD! Wow 6 years now. I can't believe it's been that long already. Finish her up and go take it for a social distancing ride. Congratulations again!

Edit: Knew I should have kept my mouth shut.....Later Y'all

You can search for mine I started building, or look on the HAMB forum Model T Gow Job. I too am running an A box...the better '30-31 box. Link: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-t-gow-job.1122709/ Interesting that the above pictures, that the end of the A box has been trimmed and tur...

Any offers?

I have a set of cast muffler ends for I believe late teens. Pitted but still solid. The tube you can use for a pattern---if you don't want the tube just let me know. Take a look. Cleaning up the garage, asking $40 shipped in the lower $48 states (please remember, shipping is included and costs $15 b...

Cool, front wheel drive burnout.

All I know is, I post way less than I ever have here, only because a of a few people. No direct attacks, but a few hypocrites go out of their way to help one person, saying the young need to have info, and more or less telling me to go pound salt when I asked for help. Take it for what you will. I u...

I posted some photos of an engine with this type of conversion over in the other discussion - https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10117 WOW, Those too are great reference. THANK YOU for posting those. All of this is great info to have. The flywheel housing is Model B, I cant say for su...

Ok- here are a few pictures of my seal setup- pretty much self explanatory. The last picture shows the extended crank flange necessary to position the flywheel properly. The flywheel in this engine is a lightened model A with a V-8 pressure plate. Crank is model A with a full length rear main. I'll...

Well, ok then. Anyone else have some real information they are willing to share?

Henry K. Lee wrote: ↑
Thu Feb 27, 2020 7:35 pm
Do not forget the transmission pilot bushing!

Hank

It's already in the flywheel....can't really forget it....

According to my measurements, because I don't want to confuse anyone, yes, if using a stock T crank, yes, you need a spacer on the end of the crank before the flywheel goes on. If using a stock length A crank (which has a surface for a seal to ride already), the flywheel housing needs to be spaced a...

Hank,

It would be great if you had any pics of the parts and pieces with them on a engine so I could see better what your trying to convey in your message.

I did have a phone call with Dan. His seal holder is made for an "A" crank in a T block using the A transmission....which I'm also building beside the T crank / T block engine. It is also expensive, and I made a verbal commitment for one, he said a couple of months to get some cast up. He said he is...

Very nice Shane. I too am working on trying to put an "A" trans behind a T Engine. I'll never have enough funds to own a Fronty pan, so I'll just build a similar one. My big issue is figuring out the sealing for the rear main so oil wont get into the clutch. So far in a couple months of research the...

I know this has been done, so hopefully someone here can tell me. I'm trying to run a T engine with T crank with a dry clutch setup (basically like a modern type engine/clutch /trans setup). That means I need to somehow seal the rear main. How can it be done? I have one idea, but you certainly wont ...

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. SOLD SOLD SOLD! Steering column from a speedster project that changed direction. Length is still standard, so can be used in regular car New pitman arm New key New nut New grease cup. Excellent used timing / spark rods New control rod springs and cups New gears (4:1) New brass quadrant New brass n...

For those of you wanting to do something different, please join us at the Model T Ford Snowmobile in Forestport, NY (Noth of Utica, NY) this weekend, February 1st, 2020 The Trackside Blazes Snowmobile Club (modern) have graciously invited us back this year. The weather looks great, and we just need ...

All sold! Thank You. I was glad to have these done and pass a few on.

I'm not sure if I will ever have these made again (its hard to front the money for such an adventure). However, I am always interested to hear of any interest in this.

1 set sold pending received payment.

1 set left!

I had some flanges made up for the exhaust and intake ports for the Frontenac head to make manifolds with. Both flanges are the same except for the inner diameter. These are laser cut 3/8" mild steel plates. The exhaust are sized at 1.5" holes (Quantity 3) The intakes I made a touch smaller at 1.25"...

Are the vendors out of them?

Typically Dennis the commonly available adapters are a minimum 1" thick. But consider the fact they use a standard lug nut that has to be recessed to just below the surface. You didn't say what exactly your doing, but even if you could thin it down some more, I don't think I's go no less than 3/4" t...

Dan, do you know what year Nash?

Mike, you have my sympathies. As someone trying to rewood a cut-off touring body, and I didn't buy a kit, I 100% feel your pain. Now try doing it from scratch without even sketchy instructions like me. I have a luscious head of hair and I have been slowly pulling it out for well over a year. As was ...

Tim, Do you know if they opened up the old valve guides in the block to allow more freedom of the pushrod? The reason I am asking, is the original Frontenac setup did not need that because of the design of the pushrods and rockers as a "slider" setup but moving to a more positive ball and cup connec...

For the sake of the conversation, approximately what year(s) early Nash are we talking about---'20's?

I found an old forum post saying that 1920's Buick rockers were what was used originally on Frontenac heads. But those might as well be gold also.

I have tried to call and email them (Rocker Arms Unlimited) to no avail. From things I have read, they (like alot of companies) are not what they used to be, as far as service goes. There are several other custom rocker companies out there, and because I can hide all that under the valve cover, I am...

Tim, THANK YOU! What baffles me is why a straight rocker arm isn't landing on the valve tip. The pushrod to valve stem tip should be a straight shot. But this is getting somewhere now. The geometry isn't that great with those 223 rockers, but it looks usable. I am being a little to picky I guess, I ...

Tim,

What is the number cast into the side of those rockers?

Would it be possible to get a few more shots of that setup--including one directly above a pair of rockers?

Thank You for the time in doing this.

Yeah, if I had the tools and machinery to make my own.

I just had some Y block rockers measured out however for me, and they too seem to come up short by a little bit. If someone has made them work, id like to see pics.

Really? That easy? Thanks Hank!

Well, I went an did it. I found a reasonably priced Frontenac head. It's a single port "T" model. Appears to be in fine shape. Used to belong to Tom Moore from Mass. The only thing is, It does not have any rocker arms. Now I'm a pretty resourceful kinda of guy. And being versed in V-8 performance en...

Not usually. Lots of Muscle car, drag race, circle track and safety equipment. But you never know.

The material makes no difference. I prefer brass plugs because of the corrosion resistance over steel. The brown stuff he recommended was probably what used to be called "Indian Head", but I think is now just called Gasket Shellac. I too have used it on countless freeze plugs over the years and have...

Hopping someone can answer a question for me. I'm rewooding my 1924 cutoff Touring. Can someone possibly tell me how the original metal side skin, wood upright pillars were attached to the sills? I'm assuming it may have been wood screws. How many? 1?, 2?, 5? Any particular pattern? I have no refere...

Donnie, I totally agree with what your saying and that is my outlook and feelings on it also. I also know that some of these have been found "on the cheap" relatively speaking. All I need is someone with one of those, willing to help a fellow enthusiast and realize he doesn't need to make a home run...

Kevin, Just wanting to see what pops up that I may be able to afford. So no preference really. I'm just shaking the trees and looking for a needle in a haystack.

Donnie, Seth's head was great, hoping to find one cheaper. I can't swing his price even thought it really is a good deal.

Looking for anything BUT a Chevy head.

I have a Chevy head conversion I'm willing to part with if I can step up to a true bolt on head like a Fronty or Rajo.

Looking to actually put this into service and use it as intended.

Looking to see if someone has an overhead valve Model T head and rockers they want to part with. Not looking to spend a fortune, and I don't expect a bolt on and run head because of that.

So what have you?

IM me or Email @ crazydart400 AT yahoo DOT com

Take it apart and use the aviation EZ Turn lubricant sold by the vendors. I have found sometimes it takes repeated applications before it seems to settle in a bit. The new fuel today with its alcohol additives washes alot of the lube out of the fittings. I buy supposed non ethonal fuel for the T and...

Here was my little write up on it, READ THE WHOLE THREAD. After hearing horror stories of doing it, I did not think it was that bad at all. Having the right tools helps, non of which are Ford tools.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 1488134546

Needs a 36 tooth ring gear to make it a 2.76 ratio.

Contact me at crazydart400 AT yahoo.com I tried to PM you but it seems not to be working.

"There's not a straight piece of wood on a Model T". This statement, is of course, a fallacy. A touring has straight pieces in it. I know....I've had one disassembled down to nothing. LOL, the only two pieces I so far have found that are straight and have straight cuts on them are the dash pillars....

I'm rewooding my '24 cut off touring currently. Anyone who "thinks" it will be easy is fooling themselves. And while I am not a cabinet maker by any means, I am a pretty good, above average fabricator, and it is a daunting task. I own band saw, table saw, routers, so its not like I don't have the to...

I would doubt that the governor by himself has the authority to arbitrarily decide that you need new plates and double the cost. He did---by himself. various Lawmakers and citizens are up in arms about it. At $25/per car, that leaves me at 5 vehicles plus a car trailer-----$150. My T has original Y...

Your right, its not a mod for everyone. But its nice to see a detailed write up with pics on it. Should be good food for thought for anyone building a speedster. On my speedster build, I debated the Vega box, but ultimately I decided I wanted to use as many pre war parts as possible. I ended up usin...

I got one too. I don't often post non approved purists pics, but since were on the topic......

I even modified it and added a tank drain

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Yes, Will was helpful. Maybe I jumped the gun a little, but the thing I really wanted to know, bolt size, all someone had to do was go out and look at their car for me. Anyhow, all is well. But I still stand behind my statement of the in depth technical stuff, --especially when it comes to non drive...

Yes, there is a facing reamer. I have used either an original or a reproduction version. I obviously took note on how it was made. Then just recently, I made my own, as I had waited almost two years to buy a reproduction from a T vendor. A 1/2" bolt, A spot face cutter opened up in the middle for th...

I'd V out that crack and weld it shut. Unless it has to be show quality, don't grind the excess weld off. It appears the pan is off, it's the perfect time to fix it. I did mine in car, its had no problems since.

Thank You Mark for the response. I realize my wording was off a little, I'll explain below. I actually found my answers today on my own. I almost hate to say it out loud here, but the technical responses on trying to restore stuff or put it back together has gone down hill drastically here in the pa...

Could someone help me with the sizes of some dash (firewall) bolts. I have a '24 touring body I am rewooding and I bought the body in pieces If I am looking at things right, All the bolts going to the dash (from body to dash and from frame brackets to dash) are 5/16" carriage bolts....correct? I rea...

Still looking..........

The above ones are super nice but a little more than I would like to spend for a one time use project.

I need two frame body brackets. Minor pitting is fine, just usable and cheap is more important. I need them for a body jig I am building.

PM me here or email crazydart400 AT yahoo.com

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I think just balancing the parts alone are a big factor. Once you seem to balance the rods and pistons, and flywheel, that should cure alot of it. I am going to have my machine shop dynamically electronic balance my whole assembly with the crank (like they do for hi performance engines). My big bloc...

Drove it to a club function, first time I had a trip with some mileage (20 mile round trip). On the way home, lost the mag and hopefully the kevlar brake band needs a simply adjustment because the brakes were going away as the pedal dropped further. Will investigate, hopefully both are simple fixes.

Sometimes they can be a bugger to remove. Sometimes the register on the hub they sit on gets peened over preventing removal. And sometimes its just rust and paint that hold it on. There is no real trick, obviously remove the nuts from the hub bolts and it should come off fairly easy. WD40 is not a g...

You might have to use a couple of adapters to get where you need to be. But it might be similar to the compression fittings used for air lines in big trucks. Do you have any truck repair shops around you? They should have a fair selection of fittings---unless it's the shop I work in. You can also se...

I hope I am not hijacking this post, but has anyone found that they need to add a significant amount of preload to the clevises? If I do essentially as Mark posts in his method, the wheels never get to the point that they lock up. I have to essentially make my brake rods much shorter adding a bunch ...

Don, If you don't tell anyone, I'll tell you that mine has some rubber inline for the reasons you describe. My line is also not bent the same as Henry's either. My advice though is to use Gates "Barricade" hose to ward off what this lousy ethanol gas does to regular fuel line. I get mine at Napa, pa...

Jeff, I too encountered a similar problem, caused by me. I pulled the hogs head, and used a couple of small strands of copper wire (from a small 14 gauge wire) to hold the clutch pivot fork in position while lowering the hogs head. It was very small and thin, non magnetic which I thought would be go...

Its interesting that I can't seem to find that seal number within the US easily, and that it doesn't seem to cross directly to CR9878 or SKF 471224.....even though they all "appear" to be the same size. I agree with the pain in the A deal of having to make the other seal work, but at least for me, m...

Andrew, Those are some nice castings. I only have ever seen the bent plate steel versions (which I have two sets of). Scott, I know what your saying, and I have been on both sides of the fence with the ignorance of the moment, ripping and tearing stuff out, and as the buyer asking "why the hell did ...

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