MTFCA Forum

10W30 sounds reasonable to me for most applications but whats the verdict for adding ZDDP? I had a camshaft erode on a classic Mercedes I have and was told by the Mercedes Classic Center they felt it was because I used a modern synthetic oil which does not have ZDDP. I put in a new camshaft and hav...

I have the RIVITS ….They are hollow…That reference to the older post was helpful… Thanks Guys ,,I’ll post my results when I get them done …. I realize that you have the rivets. The links I posted were for driving tools that you asked about to round over the rivets. I included links for both solid a...

So when the voltage of the generator is greater then the voltage of the battery, the magnetic coils on the cutout will close a switch connecting the generator to the battery. The initial generator output does not have to be greater than the voltage of the battery. It only needs to be enough to clos...

So when the voltage of the generator is greater then the voltage of the battery, the magnetic coils on the cutout will close a switch connecting the generator to the battery. The initial generator output does not have to be greater than the voltage of the battery. It only needs to be enough to clos...

After you get the 30 or so usual replies, which will run the gamut of all possible viscosities and chemistry, you'll realize that just about any motor oil will do**. The most important thing is to be sure you have enough of it. Check your oil frequently. I check mine every time I buy gas. ** Once yo...

CatGuy, I'm a retired mechanical engineer and the early part of my career was designing heat transfer equipment for the oil and gas industry. Your water pump (if functioning properly) can only help the heat transfer rate. The faster the coolant flows the better as long as its not so fast that it ch...

CatGuy wrote: ↑
Mon Oct 30, 2023 10:22 am
I've also wondered if the water-pump moves water through too fast thus not allowing it to cool sufficiently. Any truth to the theory?

No.

If it's going through too fast to cool sufficiently, then it's also going through too fast to heat sufficiently.

They have a hole down the center ….. They're hollow rivets?? The proper forming tool depends on whether or not they're solid or hollow. No matter what, you should not need to heat them. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rivet-setters/tools-for-solid-rivets-with-washer/ https://www.mcmaster.com/prod...

Steve, As others have suggested, check for the possibility of a stuck clutch. It's very common and easily tested for by jacking up the rear wheels and seeing if the engine will now turn over when the stick is either in neutral or all the way forward, in high gear. Always do the easy stuff first! ;) ...

It's probably a good check, Oprah has a lot of money!

They only get sticky and blacken your hands when they get wet.

Travis,

Listen to one voice.

First, see if the hinges on your driver's side door might be bent. If not, put shims behind the lower door hinge in order to "swing" the door upwards and align your latch. If you add a 1/16" shim behind the lower hinge, then place a 1/32" shim behind the middle hinge and no shim at the top hinge.

Travis,

It would be wise to take Ron P. up his generous offer of help. He will definitely get to the source of trouble.

(No disrespect meant towards others who have offered help as well!)

RVA23T wrote: ↑
Sun Oct 29, 2023 12:24 am
CCvsBL.jpg

No way! Circus peanuts are the worst!

Travis, With the engine running and someone to look at the ammeter, take a piece of wire and bridge across the cutout. In other words, bypass the cutout. See if you don't show a charge when doing so. If you do, then either your cutout is bad or your generator is not able to make enough current to en...

UPDATE: I think we have found the problem!! My buddy called and said he pulled the spark advance lever to full advance and hit the starter - the engine started! After hearing this, we need to make some mechanical adjustments to the spark advance linkage. I did notice a lot of looseness an slop in t...

Replace the ignition coil.

JohnM wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 27, 2023 12:13 pm

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 27, 2023 11:53 am

JohnM wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 27, 2023 10:28 am

Your key words are " heavy braking" which is what you should avoid.
True. But we don't always have that option.
I'm sorry Jerry, I misunderstood your question. I thought you were asking how to use engine compression to safely go down a hill.

No problem. It was all good advice!

JohnM wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 27, 2023 10:28 am

Your key words are " heavy braking" which is what you should avoid.

True. But we don't always have that option.

I had the same experience in a small town in Ohio. This little town was in a valley between two hills. The Fordor didn't have enough gas to get out of the town on either hill. To add to the fun, the town had no gas station. Local folks to the rescue. By the time I left, my gas tank was full! All due...

One unfortunate nature of the model T is that engaging the E-brake will disengage the clutch and so render the engine braking effort useless. When too quickly running out of road, all options are vital! Kevin, I have often wondered at what point during heavy braking, does depending upon the "assist...

Going downhill with a Ruckstell may allow the Model T to go faster than is desired or safe. Not so. With the Ruckstell in low range, you're essentially in "low-gear". Engine drag will by multiplied by the low range, (allowing you to descend slower), just the same as torque is multiplied when climbi...

Do not turn off the ignition while the engine is turning! If you turn it off you will still draw in fuel which will be forced out into the muffler and later when you turn on the ignition, you risk blowing off the muffler. With the throttle in the idle position, you draw in so little fuel, it won't ...

The thing about using shims is assuring they can't eventually slide down into the tube. Then you're back to where you began.

The Halloween Pictures posting on another thread reminded me of a true story. It was really funny when it happened, maybe it still is... Several years ago, at church, it happened that the service fell on Halloween. When the priest concluded the Mass, he asked, "How many of you have some anxious ghos...

And, how would some of these bony guys, (or gals?), start a Model T?

With a skeleton key!

(Insert groans here___________________)

FWIW...

You don't need to heat the rivet. I would also not use a rivet gun for rivets that small. It's very easy to do cold, with a hammer and proper rivet sets. You'll also have better control by using a hammer. Be sure to upset both ends of the rivet enough to make the head bend over, deform, to match the...

TheSpeedsterProject wrote: ↑
Tue Oct 24, 2023 7:02 pm
I finally found my notebook after 10 years - Is Ken Meek still in here?

Ken Meek was tragically killed in a Model T wreck many years ago.

Check it out:

https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusi ... 50c1&ei=20

Honestly, having a good ratchet and pawl eliminates the need for the block. Nothing wrong with "belt & suspenders" however.

I like the use of a wood screw & a nail. Which is best? Who knows, use 1 of each.

The Milwaukee timer is toast...

Not sure where these Cotter pins are that need to be replaced with wire and I'm sure I'll learn. Is there a pic anyone can share, cool. The cotter pins on these studs. They need to be removed and replaced with a wire that ties the 2 studs togther, preventing either one from threading out, (which co...

Be sure to wire the studs together at the wishbone socket. They currently have cotter pins.

I don't like that corrosion on the wishbone or the tie rod. I'm sure you'll check that out.

Good to see him "in uniform"! Way to go Steve!

Aren't they good for regrinds???

Jwinters wrote: ↑
Mon Oct 16, 2023 10:05 am

i can get them on but would need a wrench to get them up the spindle.
i cant get them to run up by hand.

Having to use a wrench is okay, as long as you don't need any extreme force to do it.

A REO I believe.

Since you asked... My personal feelings are that I really don't like 26/27 wires on a brass car. Period, aftermarket wire wheels however can look very nice.

Norman Kling wrote: ↑
Fri Oct 13, 2023 12:09 pm
Notice the men in first picture are all in uniform. Must have been a way of torture. Balance a car on someone and restrict them from breathing.

Norm

The guy being squashed is also in the same uniform. Notice the collar decoration.

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 12, 2023 12:10 pm
I would do a top notch rebuild including a full balance. But that's me.

I believe that Jonah is a young guy that may not yet have the resources to do just that.

Thanks Dom!

I gotta' check that out. I have that make, model & size of tire.

thankfully the valves sick out, and look good, I plan to lap them though. How does the scoring on the cylinder wall look? Jonah, I'm not seeing scoring as much as I'm seeing rust pitting. It does not look great... or even good. That being said, it will run, (and I suppose it has been running like t...

Many times I have added babbitt to the front of a rear main cap and faced it to size. Often with the engine still in the car. What do you do to reface the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft? They're usually grooved. I guess I misunderstood your question. The cap is made just wide enough to refit. Th...

Jonah D'Avella wrote: ↑
Sun Oct 08, 2023 8:18 am
Also, there is some scoring on the cylinder wall. Is that a problem?

Show some good pictures of the scoring. Not enough lighting the pictures above.

Many times I have added babbitt to the front of a rear main cap and faced it to size. Often with the engine still in the car. What do you do to reface the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft? They're usually grooved. The last one I built up with some old, clean babbit using an aluminum can to make a ...

I also set timing roughly by getting cylinder at TDC and then installing distributor. I suppose it could be a tooth off, but as I recall there aren’t very many teeth on the distributor gear so one tooth results in a giant jump in timing. You don't adjust timing by how the gears are meshed. That bas...

Run a ground wire from the distributor head to ground. The distributor head can get worn & sloppy in the housing. At certain speeds, the head will vibrate and loose ground continuity, causing a misfire.

Erik Barrett wrote: ↑
Sat Oct 07, 2023 3:52 pm
Many times I have added babbitt to the front of a rear main cap and faced it to size. Often with the engine still in the car.

What do you do to reface the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft? They're usually grooved.

On 8/22/23 @ 12PM, he was told by one of our more prolific members, that his advice was not wanted. He has pretty much been silent since then. Coincidence?

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Fri Sep 29, 2023 9:56 pm
Imagine how a polar bear would react to a 100 pound blob of Strawberry Jello...

Pat,

It's that kind of thing that keeps me awake at night.

John iaccino wrote: ↑
Fri Sep 29, 2023 6:25 pm
Tried to post on Early Ford Registry, waiting for approval.

I think the EFR site is having some technical issues.

The rolling machine is for making the indented grooving along the edges of leather belting.

It's called a leather creaser.

Like this...

: leather.png (42.2 KiB) Viewed 465 times

A video of a modern version. Skip ahead to 3:00...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TA6oLvpvWUE

Do the holes in your running board brackets line up?

Rich Eagle wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 28, 2023 9:24 pm
I kind of like this one.
InRocks.jpg

Rich,

I always have to look twice at your photos to determine whether or not it's really one of your paintings!

An early photo of Lurch!

It's a resistor used somehow along with carbon arc projectors and or spotlights.

I'll be there with my "old lady" shopping cart, high hopes, sore feet & not enough money!

Have fun everyone and safe travels to all!

Still there... But I can't find the big building in the background.

https://www.google.com/maps/@30.3572554 ... ?entry=ttu

A bus I think.

I would suspect the bands are just a bit tight. Or the clutch drag combined with band compression is causing the problem. Try cranking with the car in neutral or high gear with the rear wheels jacked up. If it is much easier, one or more of the above is likely the cause. Norm Agreed. Try Norman's c...

If the brakes were dragging sufficiently to heat up the rear end, you would have also noticed the car's power & speed being dragged down significantly.

One last question, they refer to it as a planer. Years ago, when I toured Giddings and Lewis, they called them shapers. Is that like a soda vs pop thing? planer.JPG planer drums.JPG That's a planer. Shapers are a little different. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7b81kWIhjPQ Among other differences,...

What a great picture! Thanks!!

Here's my observations of "club tents" at Hershey... for what it's worth... Not all, but most club tents I've seen, seem to be a gathering/hangout spot for a small group, (clique), of people to sit around and chat while spending little to no regard or attention to passers by. Even those who may paus...

Post some photos. As for being able to adjust the mixture better, the float valve has little to do with that. It only allows so much gas to enter into the bowl. The mixture is controlled by the needle valve. The ball valve, (grose jet), that you're replacing can be troublesome in allowing enough gas...

Bob Sacchi wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 21, 2023 10:02 am

The thing that confuses me is that it ran fine on coils and a New Day timer for about 2 minutes, then suddenly started missing...

... as your battery was going dead.

Soap is corrosive, I wouldnt recomend it for a Model T fuel shut off valve. I have not found that to be the case. Works well for me. It only takes a tiny amount. I thin coating on the tapered shaft, being careful to NOT get any tiny shavings of soap in the hole, has lasted for years. Just rub the b...

What i understand from your story is that the car ran fine on the True fire, the car ran fine too on the first regular timer and coils you installed for the first ten minutes or so, and when you changed out the timer for another known good timer kept missing some beats. Sounds to me like a fuel pro...

Why do you have lock washers stacked up between the hub and the fan blade?

Not sure what group it is, but it's the "Tunnel of Trees Tour".

Your fan hub is the ball bearing style. They're usually trouble free. The crankshaft pulley however is notorious for knocking when they're loose. Without the load of the fan and fan belt on it, the crank pulley would be somewhat expected to quiet down.

As Tfan mentions, it's for undercutting mica in electric motor/generator armatures. It would have a tiny little saw blade in the end of its spindle.

Do you have a picture of the brake band itself? Have you closely inspected it for any cracks, including where the end lugs attach?

Your drum appears to be fine. You just need the proper drive plate. Is the outside diameter of the drum, (where the brake band rides), straight, and not tapered?

So how tight is too tight when assembling axle halves? Lots of good ideas here but let’s have greasy finger data. I just put one together. Assembled with just some light grease to hold it all together. First attempt it locked up, and by the fifth or so attempt gently sanding the bronze washers on a...

I don't believe there is a general rule with crank breakage. There can be many causes, with the A#1 cause being metal fatigue. It sure doesn't help matters however when there is no radius on bearing journals, bent pans, high rpms, broken timing gears, misaligned main bearings and bad luck.

Bruce, I think it's most likely that your thrust washers are set up too tight. You may be able to increase the clearance enough by parting the 2 halves of the housing and sneaking in another differential case gasket. If done carefully, it may not require removing the rear end to do it. I believe the...

Bruce, When you state there's "grease" in the rear end you don't actually mean grease do you? Like grease that comes from a grease gun? There should be gear lube in there. Like 600w sold by the suppliers or maybe even 140 gear lube as sold at auto parts stores. Essentially very thick oil. Hopefully,...

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑
Fri Sep 15, 2023 7:54 pm
Besides the car corral, when did Hershey become a car show?

It has been for many many years. Always the last day of the Meet.

He seems to be weighing his options...

BTW, I would not want to tangle with the woman(?) who's drawers are hanging on the line, in the distance!

It's hard to come to the forum without thinking about Steve. We all want what's best for him even though we don't know what that is. Many nice ideas about him and his cars are wonderful but may not be feasible or what he will want. It's best not to get too far ahead of ourselves. Keep the good thou...

Just a few thoughts, based on our pictures. 1. Your main bearing shims look so far out of alignment, with the one end poking out, that it makes me wonder if the other end isn't hanging into the bearing and getting pinched by the crank shaft journal. Wouldn't be the first time that has happened. 2. Y...

From what I've seen others experience with a slipping JR clutch, you can adjust and get it working again, but it won't last long. If you have a transmission screen, look for bits of friction material that may have come off of the discs.

It may lend itself well to a custom-made manifold cooker.

Not everyone will be thrilled about it being painted red. That may bring its value down a bit.

Just a comment on blasting clutch discs- its very easy to warp clutch discs if they get blasted with coarse media or high pressure. Contrary to the beliefs of some folks, clutch discs need to be dead flat in order to function properly. Some may disagree with that statement, and that's ok as well......

That's hard to look at...

Jerry, parts catalogues show the clutch you illustrate as the "Turbo" clutch, which requires its own splined inner drum to replace the original Ford part. Yes, the special inner drum is the right way to do it. However, before those were available, many folks just snipped/ground off the spline teeth...

Rich P. Bingham wrote: ↑
Fri Sep 08, 2023 12:00 pm

What are the earmarks of an original clutch pack that should be replaced ?

Heavy warpage.
Cracks.
Galling.
Worn down lugs.

The disc you show looks reusable to me. I usually blast them with glass bead before re-installing.

I believe those are Turbo 400 discs.

They're notched because they started out in life looking like this...

Dallas is here in the hospital, and a minister is here. We will keep an eye on him and take care of his car and belongings. Steve is stable for now. Thank you to all for your concerns. Thank you Dave. How wonderful that you and others are there for Steve. There are some very special people in this ...

Double check your timing. A retarded spark can make for a sharp exhaust note.

This sounds encouraging, (the message above from Mark Strange that is). Thank you!

Praying for Steve. May God give him comfort and healing.

"IN3491" is the part number for a diode... https://www.ebay.com/itm/144864349172?hash=item21ba968bf4:g:OcAAAOSwNM1bcvKw&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwIAkMwS%2F1YmsEfWIP3XPcbuu%2FaL6yw964qkaZOKDS74x6LPATZv7ZRNzeOIPyaBYeuFZUO%2BVinS%2Ffl2I3CWJkPYHYjn1EdVFnTuDR3uAXJCR457ZnsKaUe3XsIg9Kgm3tAHwM7rrUYCl26pQDQK%2Bv...

The NH has an idle circuit. It has to do with the 2 small holes near the throttle plate. If you remove the brass plugs and drill out the small holes in the NH I think you'll be fine. A properly working NH will allow for a very nice idle.

Yes, it was a wonderful tour, attended by lots of wonderful folks. This was my 32nd O'Jam. For many on this year's tour, it was their first Ohio Jamboree. I, and my cousin George, have always been made to feel welcomed on the Ohio tour. I am sure that this year's first timers must have enjoyed the s...

Hey All, I have a 1916 Touring car that came to me very complete. Everything was included. I removed the fenders, running boards and splash shields while I redid the bucket. I wonder if I am better to find someone that will refurbish the body parts or to order new ones. Will the new parts fit as we...

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