MTFCA Forum

I just now got a third email as shown below. I tried to contact the admins by way of the "Contact us" button above a couple of hours ago and my own message came back to me. Admins: you've got something screwy going on. The most recent one came through with the name of a known forum member. Two examp...

On the left is an early '11 Open Runabout with one-piece front spindles and other such features.

Nope, because I see I goofed up the spelling. Surprised it didn't bounce (or that email exists out there the way I misspelled it). Oh well!

Dang, I emailed five minutes after the listing went up. Gotta be quick on the draw around here!

Guessing on the setting is not necessary. There is a formula for this and, easier yet, a few online calculators out there:

https://belknaptools.com/extensions-calculator/

Yes, I agree. Attached are photos of two square door's side-by-side, both originals. The one marked "2" (like Kim's) came off a 3,000-numbered car and is likely original to it. The one marked "1" was bought as a loose part and its serial number is not known. I had looked over both very carefully and...

Perfect! Thanks for the link to that. When I did my own searching it didn't come up.

Simple as that. I'd like to hear from anyone with actual hands-on experience in the matter. One-piece engine pans run close (and this is an original, not a fake). Are there clearance issues with the counterweights, etc? Thanks.

Forgot to add if this unit is correct for a 1912, what is the Center distance from one base hole to the next? I’m hoping it’s 6”. Thanks! I have a 3-foot unit that does not have a tag on it. In all respects it looks identical to other early Browns that I've documented (originals, not reproductions)...

My understanding is that brass era Brown and Corcoran generators are nothing alike in their general appearance other than being dimensionally the same. I recognize what Mike posted as a brass era Corcoran -- round base and cam clamps. Jno. Brown had a cast base with three feet and wingnuts for clamp...

A narrow hogshead is 16" across this area and a late aluminum one is 16-1/4". I can't see how the flywheel is an issue. Even the front-to-back thickness of the two different flywheels is the same.

What's different if the diameters are the same and there's no ring gear on it? Despite the early magnets being thinner, they're still the same length.

I have an '09 flywheel and a starter flywheel here and both measure right about 15" diameter. I haven't had the parts mixed as an assembly, so if you would like other measurements just let me know.

Since they describe it as being outside of town it's easy to see how it might be this spot: https://www.google.com/maps/place/Zinc,+AR+72601/@36.2907818,-92.9197807,63m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x87ce431659d32d27:0xec7737b4ef6a283c!8m2!3d36.285348!4d-92.9143383 The only other option seems to be here:...

tdump wrote: ↑
Sun Mar 15, 2020 12:55 pm
That must have happened on the 2 that I used to see out by the road in Union county that I wanted so bad.

If you do find one, just remember that the cheapest one you can get is the most expensive that you can ever hope to buy.

tdump wrote: ↑
Sun Mar 15, 2020 12:48 pm

BTW, I have a fresh 4 pack of Walmart Black label Toilet tissue I would be willing to trade for a 1958 Lincoln Mark 2 Sedan.

That's unpossible since 58's were Mark III''s though I guess you could snip off one of the I's on the front fender script!

....but all the wheels on this are originals, and have been getting me down the road for almost sixty years. Your thoughts? Here's another one -- they were 47 year old wheels when you started and now they are 107 years old. 50 year old wood and 100 year old wood are two entirely different things. T...

My thoughts are that whatever broke your wheel -- the damage is not limited to the wheel. Check everything down the line for being bent, broken, or cracked.

At this point I think the hand sanitizer and toilet paper hoarding has more to do with "entrepreneurial" people flipping it on eBay. Just like how on old car forum classifieds you always see people listing a variety of things for at-and-above full retail and you can then turn right around and find w...

Ah, since it's that far north it might be a Missouri license plate. Arkansas doesn't have one that fits the bill prior to 1945 but Missouri seems to have a few.

Thanks for finding those links. It's nice to finally have something to put the photo into context.

If it is an Arkansas plate, and I believe that it is, the number placement and color combination make it 1945.

This photo was discussed extensively on the old forum but I'm not having any luck finding the thread.

I only just now noticed the Times Square Auto Co. across the street, verifying placement in New York. Might they have been the dealer that filled the order? The two photos are taken in different locations as shown by the street lamps. Notice that the taillamp is also mounted on the right and not on ...

Thanks guys. Walter, great find. These and three other will be scanned into the digital Detroit Library collection and available online. I’ll post a link when they are online. I wonder why right hand drive? Please do post a link when they come up. No doubt DPL has many other great photos, but they ...

Great find! These are the ten chief's cars ordered new by the FDNY. I have only ever seen the below photo in the Clymer book, "Henry's Wonderful Model T" and it is what started my obsession with the one-year-only Open Runabout:

I think there's value in it, whether it's in terms of money or otherwise. If you had your car sitting side-by-side with another '26 that had mismatched numbers and both were in basically equal condition and I could choose between the two, I would choose yours. There will be others to whom that does ...

Good find! It looks like a whole maintained 1911 engine with service updates, like the later fan assembly. Neat that it still has a dogleg intake and wing nuts. Does the exhaust manifold have "T511" on the center-inside facing the head and, if so, is it prominent or smaller and harder to read?

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑
Thu Mar 05, 2020 3:07 pm
I got a modest bit of improvement on an original engine using this method but ended up with a very noisy valve train for my trouble.

If the lash is a problem it only means your hearing is too good!

I've done it with factory grind cams. I wouldn't bother with a cam of new manufacture where the manufacture dictates it was ground to be set by lash.

As to measurements -- depth mics and indicators don't care what pistons one has.

Not to distract from the Ford talk, but I suspect that 62nd. St. house number matches up to today. I think a lot of those older neighborhoods got plowed under around WW II when so many row homes were being built. It doesn't seem like it to us now, but even back then that would have been an "older" n...

Rob wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 29, 2020 8:22 pm
As it turns out, while the Du Mee’s were away from Philadelphia, they had “guests” in August and September of 1907. You just can’t make this stuff up.............

Hey man, everyone knows you don't leave your crib unattended in Overbrook!

My vote is for no coating. All coatings fail eventually and most people have trouble painting on an exterior surface that they can readily access. It is extremely difficult to properly clean something entirely concealed, to to mention to then expose that coating to the worst possible environment 24/...

I have photos of the drawings for '11 Torpedo fenders (different, but the extreme dimensioning should be the same height-from-frame and distance-out-from-frame) but the photos are poor and I cannot read the numbers. Perhaps somebody else has this information to supply so you can work from some kind ...

What makes you think they're original fenders -- are there signs of old repairs, pitting, etc.? The brackets being bolted on doesn't assure that they are originals that have been unriveted and reinstalled because it is my understanding that years ago reproduction fenders didn't come with the bracket...

On the underside of the fender where the bracket is riveted on, is there a notecard-size piece of sheet metal sandwiched between the bracket and fender?

If you look at the list of threads, all posters, whose usernames are in bold black typeface are members. Those posters whose usernames are in non-bold blue typeface, are not members, but are registered users. This can be confirmed by clicking onto the posters username. Jim Patrick Using that as a m...

I'll take one. Sending email.

I ran into the opposite here recently -- I opened one that was new five years ago that I went to use recently and it was too loose. The finish in the i.d. was poor and was either left turned or it was a fast grind. I have since ordered two new sleeves, both of them consistent in size and a few thou ...

Email sent.

One side of the equation is a painted plastic finish will not be as durable as a plastic part molded in color. It is only going to have the durability of a painted finish. The other side of the equation is that SEM is an excellent company. You should call the 800 number on the can and have this disc...

3. The most important reason is, if the left wheel is used, the drive train, consists of Drive shaft, Pinion, ring gear, axle, wheel. If the right wheel is used, you have to go through the slack, of the spider gears, to the wheel. So when the power pulses happen, the wheel has a tendency to jump fo...

The topic of cheap leather comes up on occasion. Read through this thread and pay particular attention to trimacar's comments. He reads on this forum too and might chime in:

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/300155-le ... nt-1657705

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYAw79386WI

That's kind of what I figured but then thought it really odd when the same poster had one of each. Maybe he used two different devices to snap the photos.

Are there any interference issues with a Scat in a one-piece pan?

This thread is a good example of both -- at least as it appears on my screen: https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9221 The first photo is little and says, "Views x-amount times" but I can't click it to enlarge. The rest I can click to enlarge. Is that a setting on my end or something wi...

I use a pair of these: https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/10-Ton-Jack-Stands-Set-of-2 The tonnage is excessive but the dimensioning is ideal. They're also perfect if wanting to place outboard with a 6 x 6 across the back as others have mentioned. The price is very reasonable when weighed against the...

You can get them further back by first removing the radius rods and then proceeding. Apart from that, you really ought to use a stand with a larger footprint.

Sorry I didn't see that before. There are only sections of it and I had to spin it around to find that.

I'm glad for the added discussion as it has caused me to look closer. Also, John's input regarding undersized driveshafts is interesting whether or not it is directly applicable here. I wasn't aware of that. With respect to machining, as I mentioned above, a Van Norman Rotary Broach (which used to b...

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 12, 2019 11:27 am
What annoys me, is I've never seen the high dome rivet for the handle reproduced, only the flat one! I wonder why?

Because you're not making them.

I[ am in the process of tearing down my nonelectric 1921. I found an original Ford script head gasket and standard bore pictons. This engine is well past being worn out. :-) I assume that it has never been torn down before. At any rate here is a picture of my no stater flywheel with a virgin ring g...

Thanks Joe and Allen for the input regarding the new tubes. I had read of fitment issues with them in the past, but if they're good now perhaps I'll go that route.

For now I'd still like to find a couple of used ones as I'd like to play around and experiment with one of them.

Here are pictures of both sides of a presumably original ring gear and a pic of a reproduction. It looks like it roils be possible to machine an original and the gash marks not be present. Thanks for the photos, Corey. I agree that based on what you show there that no gash marks would be present we...

Without knowing what was and was not available in the way of factory parts, this is one of the things I was wondering. Even without a big lathe, my Van Norman Rotary Broach (which is made to service flywheels) would be able to take off the teeth with a little special effort. Perhaps a screwed up ri...

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 10, 2019 2:56 pm

Given the comments about never seeing this before (it's certainly new to me), I expect it is a rare item, produced briefly just before or during the transition to starters in 1919. What's the assembly date of your engine, Walter?

See three posts above yours.

Just tore down a 19 with out a starter, ring gear was on the flywheel, I suspect some one had a flywheel with bad teeth and chucked it up and turned them off on a big lathe? Looks original screws as they said earlier. Without knowing what was and was not available in the way of factory parts, this ...

To add to this further, I'm going to leave out of it what "year" engine this is. Even good complete stuff has had parts switched out and in this case this engine is an amateur "rebuild" that I'm going through and reworking the mistakes. The parts on the whole unit, both internal and external, range ...

Thanks for the input thus far. Humor me for trying to approach this from a different angle as I'm not as familiar with the later cars. In the "starter era" where a starter was an option, 1919 and later, what did you get when you ordered a non-starter car? Did they make two different flywheels?

In the course of rebuilding my engine and reworking the magnets I'd like to add a flywheel ring gear and notch the mag ring in the event that I want to add a starter at a later date. The flywheel seems to be turned to accept a ring gear, but in place of that ring gear is a steel ring with no teeth. ...

Title says it all. Might be interested in more than one. Email or p.m. me through my profile. Photos appreciated. Thanks.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 07, 2019 7:45 pm
No - pretty much followed the plans - it will saturate a magnet in a couple seconds & hold 4-5 lbs. - you can't hardly shake the piston off !

That's the ticket. Some of the forum posts I've read say that design isn't stout enough. Maybe they aim to pull the sun down out of the sky!

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 07, 2019 4:58 pm
I had electrical assistance in building mine from the Gingery plans - I'm still looking for my book to let John use - I know it's here somewhere !!!

So what's the story on yours -- did you modify the Gingery specs?

Yes, and the Rex design also requires a small fork truck to move the pallets of cash required to build it. I was just adding up the materials and it is not cheap.

This is another one -- the retyped instructions from a 7th ed. Dyke's Encyclopedia:

http://www.oldengine.org/members/rotigel/Magnet/

This is something I've started studying recently but haven't yet settled on a design. Some of these might help. This one comes more highly recommended than the one from the Gingery plans: http://www.magnetoparts.com/inst_guides/charger/page1.htm This one is an interesting discussion of people debati...

I suspect the drawings for these exist just as they do for the 1911 Torpedo / Open Runabout. The part number is on McCalley CD drawing list. Ordering that drawing from the BFRC would be the sure fire way to get the information you need.

If you have messed with the linkage, go over it well and check the geometry of everything. The mistake people often make with external contracting brakes is when they want the car to stop better they shorten the rods, particularly if they have a low pedal issue. More often than not what they should ...

Over time that's not going to do your hood shelf any favors. It is unsupported beyond the shelf bolt and it going to be yanking the end of the shelf up against your hood former. As to the bolt on the rear, I wasn't talking about a starter mounting bolt but rather the starter being in the way of the ...

I think that's very much the case. Being able to make an assembly on the bench and slap it on is much more appealing having to futz with everything on car. I'm guessing the addition of a starter was not a factor in the equation since having one still makes installing the rear bolt on that side a pro...

Step 10, Figure 9 of the Ford service manual shows a mechanic removing the hood shelves from the frame with the hood clips and springs still attached to the shelves. Step 133, Figure 112 of the Ford service manual shows a mechanic installing the hood shelves onto the frame with the hood clips and s...

You cannot just use a smaller washer because the spring itself is not intended to pass through the frame. Drilling the frame for topside installation of the assembly is not a good idea because then the clip spring is then pulling against the thin wood shelf on ends that are unsupported.

You make a spacer tool like so with a slot that stands on the inside of the frame rail. Cram the tool in place with the spring and washer on top, drop the clip through, align hole in clip with the slot in the tool, install the cotter pin, and remove.

What a neat car and with all the hard to find parts. You can even tell it has the correct hand brake lever by how far it comes back toward the seat. Thank you for posting these!

I'd say take them out and redo it. How do you know they didn't drill the hole with a metric bit and then use a fractional rivet or whatnot? Also, if they didn't debur the two parts where they go together and something is holding them apart? Start fresh and then you can control the process without ha...

Even though it's a small one, it can still hurt you. Flat belt lathes are a good place to start because they have the potential to slip vs. a gear head that will eat your lunch. Take the time to study up on safety and try to get some hands-on instruction. Wear safety glasses. Do not wear gloves. Do ...

That may be how that non-factory drawing was made but that's not how it was originally. Let us know how that works out for you in service.

You will notice the spark and throttle rods were put in before the gear case was riveted on. You must cut, or better yet chisel a slot to remove them, and carefully pry the two halves apart being careful not to break them off. That's a shortcut way of doing it but nothing says that you must do it t...

Email received. Thanks.

Email received. Thanks.

I'll take this and I'll also take the bands (posted there also). Please email me through my profile with instructions on how to pay. Thanks.

I'll take the bands and this lot also:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8500

Please email me through my forum profile with instructions on how to pay. Thanks.

Art, would you mind going back and posting a conclusion on "Pitman arm fit" and "Timer felt installation"? It would be nice to know the end result of these things.

Looks very similar to what happened on my GTX, I wonder if it's just age and heat cycles catching up with the cast iron? It almost makes me think it's something to do with the era because I've worked on a lot of older stuff that has seen a lot more abuse and miles than my truck and I've never seen ...

A couple of months ago, I finally got fed up with the exhaust manifold leaks on my 1971 Plymouth GTX. I thought that the gaskets were blown, but once I got the manifolds off it turned out that the driver side manifold was cracked into two pieces and the passenger side manifold had a circular spot w...

Thanks for the reminder. This is what happens when one forgets to drain the straight-water for the winter (or fails to get all of it out). Glad to say that it's not mine:

Compare the position of the spark and rod ends on yours and Walts set up. Your rods extend beyond the end of the main shaft much more than his. Unless your shaft is not seated in the gear case, your column and levers are not matched to the shaft. Very good eye! Here is the column with a few parts t...

I put my steering in the 11 today but it doesn’t seem to have enough sticking out the bottom of the steering bracket for the pitman arm to tighten up on. The top of the shaft in as far as it will go. What is wrong here? Art Attached are photos from an unmolested 56" 1912 column. The steering shaft ...

How did this shake out?

It's one small sneeze away from crumbling:

If you don't already have it, you should obtain for yourself a copy of the McCalley Comprehensive Encyclopedia CD that has all the parts and drawing lists. The correct felt is called out as: T-474 3213 1909-12 1909-11 1909-11 Commutator oil seal. 2" o.d., 1-1/4" i.d., 3/16" thick felt If you look at...

Note how they spelled out John instead of the typical Jno. I have never seen the company itself spell out John on any of their lamps. Even on an envelope I have with their logo on it, it is still abbreviated. A friend pointed out that the reflectors were manufactured by Lancaster Lens (the L.L. logo...

Original set of 1911 Torpedo / Open Runabout fenders (short running board cars). They need some love. The front-right is actually pretty decent. The front-left is very lumpy and will need a good bit of shrinking. The rears have both been patched where they meet the running board and where the apron ...

Price drop to $1,500

Also, I should have mentioned that the top-left hub in the hub photo has an old weld repair where the flange meets the snout.

Available for inspection at Hershey at OBN 10-11 starting Wednesday morning.

Email me through my forum profile. Time stamps on emails have first priority. Listing for a friend. Five (5) wire wheels recently removed from a reliable driver. There are no issues with them, it’s just that he wanted a fresh powder coated set of wheels with new tires and didn’t want his car out of ...

Some insight to this is offered in, " Ford Methods and the Ford Shops , 1915. A bit earlier than you're asking about but likely still the same by the early black era: "Here a workman wearing a mask and equipped with a giant atomizer, behind which there is a pressure of 80 pounds per square inch, giv...

Nice looking job, Neal. This is one of those things that you have to be willing to pour yourself into to understand how it works. From the photos, I'd say your paint and body finish looks 10x better than anything Henry ever sent out the door in the black era. After years of long and expensive body a...

Another point to be made is with respect to the reaming operation and all this back-and-forth of whether it was 0.003 or 0.004 -- in the past Mr. Mills has mentioned that it is highly likely that at the factory the bushings were finished to size with a sizing ball. That is a completely different ope...

Once I heard an old parable something about a horse and it's drinking habits that might apply here.... Nothing in the Handbook is contrary to Ford's print in this matter. In this case it provides a definition and guidelines for a term that seemed to be in dispute in this thread. Separate from that, ...

It's a good bit to post, I don't have a practical way to scan it from the book, and I'm not certain that I can for copyright reasons. Even my "new" 25th Edition from 1996 has the exact same information in it. With all the stuff that you make, I'm surprised that you don't have a Machinery's Handbook ...

If Scott's link doesn't do it for you (though it should if you input the parameters), buy a Machinery's Handbook. There are tables that offer a visual representation.

Scott found online what I was trying to find in my 17th. Ed. Machinery's Handbook, which is the oldest that I have at 1966 and I agree with the classification of RC7. Since I don't see a definition on the link, I will add what's in my book, P. 1,350: "RC7 Free running fits are intended for use where...

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