MTFCA Forum

Very little if any oil would get past the threaded part where the cam gear retaining nut screws onto the cam shaft. The seal in the front cover rides on the cam nut which needs to be smooth (like any sealing surface no pits or grooves). There would be enough room along the surface of that nut for th...

Seeing Steve's nicely redone double stack mag coil ring brings a question to mind. Taking Ford's cost cutting into consideration and not forgetting the notch for starter: If both the later double stack and single stack use the same size magnets (I an pretty sure they did) which would make more power...

Check to see if at the heel is at the same level as bearing area. When cams are ground new, the area on the heel will be a little higher then the bearing surface so it will not slide into the bearing, it would have a shoulder.

The hub tool is only to clean up the thread where the hub cap goes on. The spindle, yes are left and right, would need 2 dies. One for left hand thread and another for right hand thread. The thread chaser file could do both directions. The tool made to clean up axle thread would not work, it is made...

You can use one of the thread renew files. Then use the hub puller to check. Little more time to do, but cost a lot less.

Where are you measuring, between the seat frame sides or upholstery? Did you check the number on the box to see if it matches what you ordered?

I am not clear where is it leaking from, the thread where it fits into the tank or the shut off handle? If you used white teflon tape, that is wrong type for gas applications.

I don't know if any of the 3 or 4 Dodge distributors in my "collection" have the the type with 2 leads installed, I would need to go look. Here is one on eBay;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1918-1928- ... 3731397323

Thank you for the replies and education. After reading the wanted ad got me to wondering about it.

You can tell if someone is on line by looking at that list at bottom or over on far the right past the poster information box. There will be a banner across the top right corner.

I like the ones I have seen that uses the bow of a boat turned around. One of the member's here has one. If I was building a boat tail, that is what I would do! LOL

Don't know why you couldn't use a capacitor. The single lead auto condenser is grounded thru the case (re grounded, pretty sure on that) with the lead going to the points. Some Dodge's use a condenser that has two leads, one end going to the points the other to ground, which should be like the capac...

More likely just cotton covered. The outside could be coated with varnish or shellac.

I read it two times and the thing that stands out is the crankcase support block? There is no left or right on that one that I have seen. Other wise I think we got it all. Thanks for that list.

In the classifieds one of the members was looking for a specific brand of Ford supplied generator to fit the holes in his running board. Wouldn't the mounting hole spacing be the same on all generators supplied as original equipment and installed on Ford cars if the holes were punched in the running...

Buy the motometer then buy the cap, they did not come as a set. There are a number of different winged cap styles. My suggestion is do some looking and find the style you like. I know for me, there are a couple of the winged cap styles that I WOULD NOT put on my cars, others would go on it in a hear...

I have his contact information, he has an ad in our club magazine. Ignacio I will send you a PM.

I started on one for a customer here in Oregon that got it from someone else that had stated it. Had to make the shafts for the transmission pedals, my first project on a lathe, learn on the go. I only got so far as the car was too far away and I had no place to work on it here, so I walked away. Ne...

The hub caps that he is looking for would have come with the Atlas steel spoked wheels.

Throttle lever on carb
Steering column
Hogs head
Shafts and pedals for hogs head
Steering column to frame mount
Rods for both spark and throttle
Until the change in the steering setup after 1920ish, would have used the generator mounted on left side.
Tie rod

Is the hole into the water jacket or the web between cylinders?

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/150437.html?1291082462 http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/708324/812803.html?1512380307 https://www.google.com/search?newwindow=1&sxsrf=ALeKk02eRc6BgbzCuLkfCHdDYL0ZpvvQCg:1611801498904&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=mtfca+right+hand+drive+generator&client=firefo...

If you are asking about 1915 to 1922, 1915 to 1916 used the even hinges 1917 to 1922 used the uneven. 1923 models would have come with one man top and slanted windshields like the 1924-1925. (for US cars, Canada would have had the slanted windshield earlier)

Good job! They way I was shown to do it is; install cut peen then do the next one. Also use a sealant on the pins before installing.

Back in the day you could get a plug that went on the hogs head so you could access it. There was a fitting you could place in line with it that came out on the carb side which would allow you to blow it out. If you have an original cam gear, the plug on the cover would work.

Something is missing from the front cover!

Will not say right now what it is, but it's been on most covers for a number of years. This one is really thick. There are a number of parts that are listed that are temporary unavailable. Hope someday they will be back in stock.

The bolts shown above I think are Buick and others but not Chevrolet. The Chevrolet bolts don't have the bump out on them. 1926/27 use a different length bolt then the 1928. The 1928 had a wider felloe so needed a little longer bolt. For the nuts, I am using Ford Model A head nuts. I think they are ...

All my T's even if I own more then one, Nelly-Bell after my maternal Grandmother. I have a photo of the T she learned to drive in. While mine is a 1925 the one she learned in was about a 1917 or 1918 both were made into pickups. The 1920 Dodge, until I own it, no name at this point.

You might check with Larry "Original" Smith. Suggest editing your title, "WTB original Ford Babbitt drive shaft bushing".

Sorry I was just trying to find out what brand of aftermarket horn it was to better help him. Poppie and Davids instructions should cover most of them.

US battery horns were never motor driven horns. They still used the electromagnet setup only had points that opened as the diaphragm was pulled by the magnet and closed when it sprung back.

To add; in the photos I posted the part where the key goes is missing the little tumbler plates. Wondered why the key fell out and got lost and correct replacement numbered key would do the same thing (stopped using that key till I replace the tumbler plates).

Just clamp the tower in a vice, no need for all that fancy holder. (Nice job building it) Make sure the vent hole in the casting is open. It is about half way up on the back side. If you don't you will be blowing lube out the transmission.

This is all I have right now. The car is under wraps and switch installed.

What brand? What you are describing is not a Model T horn. Model T horns used an electromagnet that pull the diaphragm back and forth. Please read my first post, there are different adjustments to make it work/sound depending on what brand it is. I did not say it was not a motor driven horn.

I made something like this for my rocky Mtn but with a few changes could work. Instead of the 26/27 brake arms I just used flat plate for the cross bar; http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/402037.html?1384711491 You could mount pulleys with a cover over them so the cable would stay in place ...

Or just keep it simple and use cables like the ends of the levers on the brakes would be setup for. Look at Sunday swap meet on the classifieds page. The top item shown is the link between the cable pulley and transmission pedal.

What is missing is lack of information on WHAT kind of horn you are asking about. Model T's didn't use a motor driven horn. Different horns have different adjustments so need to know before making suggestions. Does it have an adjustment on the diaphragm or?

Looks a lot like the Clum in my 1920 Dodge, but the backing plate where the wires mount is missing in all the above photos.

And plate glass!! Couple of those cars looked new or were new before getting hit.

Thanks for posting the flyer.

The 1926/27 AC's, might have used rods. I do not recall ever seeing any original small drum AC brakes that were not cable. There were other brands that could have been rod activated. AC is not a type it is a brand, just like Rocky Mtn is not a type it is a brand.

If it is snake oil, it has been around for a while. Sometimes it is worth reading that catalogs to know what is out there.
https://www.modeltford.com/item/3340SP.aspx

Looks like a battery type buzz horn. When the magnet pulls the diaphragm down the points open. It may be missing gaskets that went on one or both sides of the diaphragm, putting it too close to the center part so it does not have room to move in and out. The diaphragm could be home made, which why i...

Mounts to engine side of the firewall;
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1226597205
With the floor boards out you might be able to reach under and hold the bolts.

Too be sure you know, the original AC setup was cable not rods.

Jim how about a link?

If you look close you can see the lip that may have gone down inside the cam nut. The part sure looks brass colored to me. Given the location it is being shown in, I will still discount it being the pin retaining cap or part of same. At some point the shield may have been installed wrong and the cen...

I am pretty sure the one with the newer body was a roadster/runabout with the delivery installed in place of the T-deck.

When I was making my adapter plate, I found a lot of the measurements were 1/32 too.

What I am seeing may have been a shim to move the rotor/brush out. There would not be any brass piece like that in that location. When the original felt seal was installed, there was a brass shield held in place by the timer, the shield center hole went around the large smooth part of the cam gear r...

If you are handy and inventive, you can make your own cable setup like the originals.

Yes as far as I know, but this is the forum support section for questions about issues or problems using it, not the general forum. You should post your question there. In the mean time, google or do a search of: mtfca; AC brakes

You don't say where you have checked, Snyder's and maybe others list them in the catalogs. I did not see them in Lang's. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Prod ... hByKeyword

Wayne Sheldon wrote: ↑
Wed Jan 20, 2021 3:35 am
I was wondering if that was Becker's Holsman?

Yes it is.

Take your time and have fun! Besides all the other good advice about car condition, get to know the car and (this is a big one) if it still has the original 2 blade fan, get rid if it and get the new one they sell.

I have not done drums, but for flywheels I too use the knife edge like Allan. I took a paper cutter blade that I cut in half and mounted to a frame I can level.

Set up a USPS account and pay via Pay-Pal from there, you can do that. Then print the shipping label and other documents from there. I avoid using or pay Friends and Family using Pay-Pal, don't want to mess it up. I would rather pay the fees and do it right. Once you have your USPS account setup you...

Could be simple, the clamp is too loose that holds it in place, not enough tension. Could be bent or just too loose. Try that first. The brush is spring loaded so should float. Most people run without the plate behind it anyway.

Converting a T to electric has crossed my mind but more in the direction of gas electric. I would think of it more in the realm of a Detroit or Baker.

It is owned by a Becker family member.

Not sure about pre 1915, but 1915 up the burner would just slide in. When the font was attached to the lamp, there were spring fingers in the base of the lamp body that held it tight. if that is the style you are working with, there is a small cup inside the rim attached to the font, the burner sits...

I know of one Holsman in Oregon and have ridden in it, but do not know the history on it.

Whom ever get it, that is one cool looking setup!

See post on main forum.

Think it might be an AC brand cable.

Ah just the thing for your 70's Mod-Squad era car!

For rings try this;
http://www.ringspacers.com/

For the gals/ladies even living in the rural areas, some did try and keep up with latest trends, maybe a bit more on the conservative side. Then as now, changed often so might have followed the fall/winter Sears or Montgomery Wards catalog. The men/guys did too, but our styles didn't/don't change as...

On my 25 with original cast iron pistons; Replaced the valves and doubled up the top ring using the 1/8" rings as a stop gap. Needed to get it running as I was on a time crunch and didn't have any extra std 1/4 rings on hand. Well 1, 2 and 3 pistons anyway, I didn't have enough extra 1/8" rings to d...

They are not 1926/27, they are 1909 to 1925 for small drum rear end. 1926/27 DID not use an add on drum, they used the stock 1926/27 drums. These would not work on the big drum 1926/27 rear end.

I have been using the short aluminum pop rivets for some time to hold the insulators on. Then use 6-32 button head allan head to attach the brush holders. Sometimes have to grind the heads of them down to clear. I do not recall seeing a split rivet in this location, solid or hollow type.

Every so often I do an eBay search of Stevens tools, must have missed that one!

Wow on the bottom photo! Not what I would expect to see on brake lining. That takes semi-metalic to a new level. The lining I have worked with has a few strands woven in, but that stuff looks to be almost 50/50. My guess it was used in power transmission in an oil filled housing. (?)

Just before the tank, have to chuckle; all those high priced cars and the Model A is roped off!

What Chris suggest sounds good or if room on the firewall. Not everyone wants to take everything out of the trunk/boot every time to disconnect the battery and reach over and down into the abyss to do so.

Except for the diaphragm, the only other parts Lang's list are the bell and battery horn cover. https://www.modeltford.com/item/6432DIA.aspx

Put this in the I don't know but sounds good! :? Why no thick insulation around the inside; Could maybe have something to do with directing the transfer more to the post and not to the frame. Adding insulation under the coils might have been thought to be a barrier to the field build up in the frame...

Nice! While I was reading this I was wondering who came up with only 4 paddles, thinking it would throw things off, then Dan shows the above. (I am not talking about a balancing the flywheel)

Yes but not like you might be thinking. I just went down and looked at the 2 I have. When the pair of coils are assemble, there is a insulator placed under the bottom coil and one in between the two. Then each pair of coils are wrapped as unit, not individual coils, so the insulators are in the wrap...

Tom started this post..In the mean time, why not take the tank you have to a radiator shop and get it cleaned out. Might take care of the rust problem short term. If they get it clean enough, could seal coat it.

Can you post a photo of that piece of lining? While the lining I have seen has brass wires running thru it, they are not that prevalent to do that much damage. If there was a bad batch of woven lining, it would be something to watch out for. Might try a magnet and see if it would try and stick to th...

And don't forget the wood block.

Well there ya go! Try messaging him thru one of the picture post.

Install using a press and then mount to flywheel/crankshaft. If it is going on that hard, you might want to check for burrs on the shaft or it's cocked. It may have to come off a few times for checking between the clutch drum and brake drum for clearance and setup, after it is all put together and m...

Also, read up on staining oak/plywood. There may be some steps that need done before applying the stain so it does not get splotchy.

On a low radiator car, with the Chevrolet conversion, there is a mile of room. He must be running a much lower type radiator if there is not a lot or room.

It's a speedster, you can color it any way you like.

Fine by me.

It has been marked sold on the facebook page.

Suggestion re the hood rod; Install studs at firewall and radiator. Then weld on open ended slotted brackets at each end of the rod. Then all you would need to do is loosen 2 nuts and remove the rod. The rod being a little shorter then needed and one stud a little longer so length could be adjusted.

Good question. The brass wire should be soft enough to wear away quickly and not have grooved the drum, being softer then the steel drum. Even the Model A semi-hard woven lining has brass wire in it and there are guys still running the pressed steel drums. My suggestion for the getting lining with t...

Very cool! Rotated the photo

Years ago, I had a early Chevy overhead valve engine that had a tin valve cover with a 1/2"+ thick felt pad that you soaked in oil and laid directly on the rocker arms. You just poured oil on the pad as needed, the motion of the rockers kept themselves and the valves oiled. No gasket on the tin, it...

The Model A filter is not going to fit. Even if it did, the style shown , with the wire mesh would be ok, with paper not so good. The problem with filters that size on an A carb using the paper filter is they are too restrictive, not enough air so runs rich. If an air balance tube was in place on th...

Ok good to know that he is on the look out.

Ok I didn't look quite that bad after a 60 mile drive, but the wall and seat around me in my Huckster were starting to.

I just looked at the page, the only one I saw was Model A. The guy that ran the KRW page is selling off and down sizing to a smaller home that may or may not even have a shop. If I can find the video I will post a link. It was showing the pallets of stuff he has and was going to sell. So point is, m...

"but your bug will only improve with a little more patina." I am thinking that should be; but "you" and your bug....

McMaster Carr sell lining by the foot. Get the woven stuff with the brass wire. Look for the 3/16" thick stuff. My first choice would be the Stronghold. Check to see how worn the holes are and braze up with hard brass if real worn. You can google "mtfca Stronghold" and you should get some photos of ...

Gee Mark the left perch will go in the right and the right perch will go in the left can you figure that one out! The lower hole in the perch is for the Radis rod and i still have the one on the rod on the bottom . Installing dual Radis rods that's why the 2 hole perches one at the top for the spri...

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