MTFCA Forum

Forum just messing around today and found an almost complete model t 26/27 engine on a frame in the woods near our farm. I spoke with the owner and it followed me home. The only thing off the engine was the intake and manifold. I couldn’t find the front axle I guess it’s buried somewhere in the woods I’ll look later for it with my handy dandy metal detector. I used a flashlight to look inside the ports and could see that the valves stems were almost rusted through. So just for giggles what would be the best way to remove them? I remember back in my youth I tried removing some from a old T block and that didn’t turn out that well. On that engine I remove 2 with a punch and a BFH. With that success I continued and was able to break 2 guides in the process. I’d like to not repeat that, so let me hear your success stories. Thanks John

media blast inside the ports, then use gentle heat for a couple heat-cool down cycles,then apply penetrating oil,Kroil would be a good FIRST choice,then use a gentle tapping from a hammer on top and maybe with a punch in the ports,gently,you are shaking it for vibration to help the oil creep in and loosen them.
I have pulled valves this way that were less than a 1/8 th in size.I dropped 1 on the bench and it broke.

Penetrating oil is like many other things.contraversial.
BUT , remember,if you apply oil A to a problem,and the problem persist,you apply oil B and the problem persisit, and you apply oil C, then later the problem is solved,you have no idea which 1 actually worked. Truth be known, oil A probably took it's own sweet time getting in there and was a barrier to the other 2 oils getting in.
So on something important,I cut to the chase and use Kroil.

Thanks Mack, anyone else?

Mdia blast, penetrating kroil, heat and repeat. Drive the stems out (if you can) from the bottom. Remove what you can, and then drill out the remainder of the stems and have them honed oversize and drop new guides in. You may have to also do the seats, if you can do your own machine work you will come out way way ahead.

Kroil!! hands down, IMHO.

I use Kroil when I’m away from my shop, but for everyday use I depend on a homemade brew of ATF and Acetone mixed 50/50. I heat stuff with the torch until it’s red and then, during the cool-down, soak it good with the ATF mix shot from a regular oil can. Heat it back up after it cools and shoot it again when it’s just cool enough to not burn off. This is pretty much an every day deal, trying to get rusted crap apart on my cranes and tractor trailers. Kroil is good, but the other stuff works better at a bargain price. Vibration is definitely beneficial, such as from an air hammer.

Dave I like the ATF & acetone idea also. The air chisel sort of scares me. I do like Suzanne's comment about drill them out but I’m wondering if a bit will drill very effectively on the harder steel of a valve but it makes sense if I get to that point. Thanks all for the options including heat, hit, spray & repeat

Whether its rusted up blocks, pumps badly rusted up or this and that eventually using heat and some type of lube is what you’ll need to use. And patience! Can’t stress that enough.
Slowly tap or try to move the part with vise grips after it cools along with the lube. Heat again let cool and again use a lube. Move or tap. Eventually it will start to move.
Good luck. And be patient.

When rescuing the B numbered block for my 1912 chocolate van, the camshaft came out cut in in pieces with an angle grinder. That still didn't let me get to the followers. So the valves had to come out, and heat and pounding were not doing the trick. I drilled the heads off the valves first, and sliced the valve springs down the stems to get them out of the way. Then the valve stems were ground off as far up as I could go, and the stems were pounded down from the top, and ground off again, so the operation could be repeated. Once the stems were all out, the followers could be driven out.

With pistons frozen in the block and crankshaft frozen on the rods and bearings, getting the rest out involved breaking up the cast iron pistons, taking off the main bearing caps and removing the flywheel bolts so the assembly could be lifted out.

I ended up with a slight crack in one bore, and a small piece broken out of the rear main bearing land, but with an otherwise sound bare block.
The main bearing brakeout was welded back, all 4 bores were sleeved back to standard, all stud holes were helicoiled, hardened valve seats were fitted and the valve guides were K lined anr the block was decked. That was around 1993 and it has done some 30 000 miles since then.

I can see no reason why anyone would go to that extent on a 26-7 block.

Allan from down under.

How about Blaster?

Has anyone tried using vinegar to free up stuck parts?

OKAY - I'm going to give it a try, The review is excellent
https://backyardtoolshed.com/best-penetrating-oil/

Brother John, can you send a picture? -- IV

Allan,if we are in a hurry,it is easy to toss a tough case to the side.But sometimes people like a challenge.And to me,saving a old engine is a challenge,making it run is even more fun.If I found a 26 engine,and it appeared to be all there and sound,it would sit in the shop on a stand and I would apply oil and peck at it for whatever time it took just to hear it hit a lick when I finished! It aint all about the money it's worth.if that was the case,I would have few toys!

I got these out using penetrating oil and tapping the butt end through the lifter holes. Patience is key. I have seen them so thin that they break off as soon as you start tapping. I have never had to drill one out.

I started doing the same thing with a 26/27 block. Been soaking the bits and pieces with Kroil for a month before starting. Got the lifters to start moving down so I could work on pulling the non moving camshaft out. Someone had cut the valve stems leaving very ragged ends so needed to do some cleanup on them. I got down real close to work on them and noticed that the lip that seals the valve cover looked a bit odd. Wire brushed it then traced the crack up to one of the exhaust ports. Ah poop!

I’m sure you are aware that you can have a machine shop drill out and press in new intake and exhaust valve seats as well as new intake and exhaust ports and can ream out the valve guides and install new larger stemmed valves. I had all that done on my block the last time I had It out to be rebuilt. It does make a difference. Jim Patrick

Thanks all. I’ll begin working on it this week. Best John