Valve adjustment question
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Topic author - Posts: 622
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:47 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: Seress
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 Towncar, 1915 Touring
- Location: Prescott, Arizona
- MTFCA Number: 27707
Valve adjustment question
I had a bad camshaft and several valves vere burnt so I replaced them . Since the motor is out I wanted to readjust the valves. I have modern adjustable lifters so it should be easy, lol. After reading all about how to adjust the valves in the pink cover booklet " The Engine " I know less than what I knew before I started. All the 3 pages worth of technical mumbo jumbo did not help and never actually got to the point of how to do it.
I was told there is a readers digest version of how to adjust the valves with the head off and measured by piston height. If you have the step by step version for idiots, like me, I would love to know it!!!!! Thank again everyone. Frank
I was told there is a readers digest version of how to adjust the valves with the head off and measured by piston height. If you have the step by step version for idiots, like me, I would love to know it!!!!! Thank again everyone. Frank
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- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Valve adjustment question
Just set the exhaust to .012-.015 and intakes to .010-.012. The instructions in the book are for worn cams and original set up and can give you noise valve train. Even with a worn cam, at the speeds most people drive this would work fine but sounds like you have a new cam so go with those gaps.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
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Re: Valve adjustment question
Frank
Two questions:
do you now have a new cam?
do you own a dial drop indicator gauge?
answer those two questions and I and others can walk you through very easy adjustments with adjustable lifters.
BTW, it will not have anything to do with piston position, it will be based on cam mfg suggested gap...typically .010"
Two questions:
do you now have a new cam?
do you own a dial drop indicator gauge?
answer those two questions and I and others can walk you through very easy adjustments with adjustable lifters.
BTW, it will not have anything to do with piston position, it will be based on cam mfg suggested gap...typically .010"
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Topic author - Posts: 622
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:47 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: Seress
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 Towncar, 1915 Touring
- Location: Prescott, Arizona
- MTFCA Number: 27707
Re: Valve adjustment question
I simply installed a used cam that I had but considerably better than the one that was in there. Half the valves are new and half reground by a machine shop and new seats cut.. Frank
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Topic author - Posts: 622
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:47 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: Seress
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 Towncar, 1915 Touring
- Location: Prescott, Arizona
- MTFCA Number: 27707
Re: Valve adjustment question
Sorry, no dial drop indicator. Frank
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- Posts: 6431
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
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- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Valve adjustment question
Well, with no drop indicator, you will be doing by Hit/Miss. Unfortunately, when the lifter is on the heel of the cam, the adjuster flats are below the face of the lifter boss. Decide what you want your gap to be, measure what it is, rotate cam such that lifter is visible and adjust away, then rotate to the heel and recheck. If you can borrow a drop gauge the process is much faster. Let us know if you are able to borrow one.
Regarding the piston position method, Mark is right, there will be noise, though I have used it a couple of times on shot cams and it did perk up the engine. You have neither fish nor fowl with a used cam. At this point, you don't know how much wear there is or if it is even enough to worry about. I'd go with .010-.012 to start like Mark said and see how it goes.
Myself, I'd have started with a new cam and new lifters that were ground or "Butted" to quote Herm Konhke. It's remarkable how "not flat" new lifters are on the cam face. It also will make a difference on how repeatable the ".010" measurement will be, once set.
Regarding the piston position method, Mark is right, there will be noise, though I have used it a couple of times on shot cams and it did perk up the engine. You have neither fish nor fowl with a used cam. At this point, you don't know how much wear there is or if it is even enough to worry about. I'd go with .010-.012 to start like Mark said and see how it goes.
Myself, I'd have started with a new cam and new lifters that were ground or "Butted" to quote Herm Konhke. It's remarkable how "not flat" new lifters are on the cam face. It also will make a difference on how repeatable the ".010" measurement will be, once set.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- First Name: Walt
- Last Name: Berdan
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- Location: Bellevue, WA
- MTFCA Number: 16421
Re: Valve adjustment question
There were several discussions ab out this in the past on the forum, if you get real bored Google MTFCA Valve Adjustment. One of the key tips I gathered from that in the past was from Frank Harris:
"The adjustable lifter has a 1/4 28 thread and that gives you a thousandth of an inch travel for every 10 degrees wrench rotation. Take the vavle covers off and put a piston at t.d.c. both cam lobes for that or the sister piston will now be on the heel. Crank the lifter down until you do not have any gap and that means zero clearance. Move the wrench a third of a turn and you have your exhaust valve set at .012". Turn the intake tappet wrench 90 degrees and another ten degrees and you have that one set at .010". Life is simple don't go with the pain and suffering boys, enjoy life, it is too short to mess with it by making it complicated. I adjust my valves this way and my car goes like stink ! "
So, from scratch, rotate the crank until the Exhaust valve for #1 is at max height. Rotate the crank 1 full turn, measure the gap for that valve and write it down. Now rotate the crank another full revolution so the adjusters are visible. If the gap is greater than .012, subtract .012 and the remainder is how much you need to close the gap. With Franks tip from above, rotate the lifter adjusting screw 10 degrees for every .001 that you need to get the gap right. When you think you have it, rotate the crank one full turn again and recheck the gap. It should be real close but refine the adjustment as needed.
Run that play over again for the 7 remaining valves. Patience is a good thing and it's best to save the beer until the job is complete.
"The adjustable lifter has a 1/4 28 thread and that gives you a thousandth of an inch travel for every 10 degrees wrench rotation. Take the vavle covers off and put a piston at t.d.c. both cam lobes for that or the sister piston will now be on the heel. Crank the lifter down until you do not have any gap and that means zero clearance. Move the wrench a third of a turn and you have your exhaust valve set at .012". Turn the intake tappet wrench 90 degrees and another ten degrees and you have that one set at .010". Life is simple don't go with the pain and suffering boys, enjoy life, it is too short to mess with it by making it complicated. I adjust my valves this way and my car goes like stink ! "
So, from scratch, rotate the crank until the Exhaust valve for #1 is at max height. Rotate the crank 1 full turn, measure the gap for that valve and write it down. Now rotate the crank another full revolution so the adjusters are visible. If the gap is greater than .012, subtract .012 and the remainder is how much you need to close the gap. With Franks tip from above, rotate the lifter adjusting screw 10 degrees for every .001 that you need to get the gap right. When you think you have it, rotate the crank one full turn again and recheck the gap. It should be real close but refine the adjustment as needed.
Run that play over again for the 7 remaining valves. Patience is a good thing and it's best to save the beer until the job is complete.