Model N, not T...

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R.V.Anderson
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Model N, not T...

Post by R.V.Anderson » Fri Feb 21, 2020 4:07 pm

Just finished building this for a goodfella in MD's '06 Ford Model N. Complete box and four coils, correct down to the anti-rattle leaf spring under the lid.
1906 Splitdorf Model N box and coils 003.JPG
1906 Splitdorf Model N box and coils 005.JPG


Wayne Sheldon
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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by Wayne Sheldon » Fri Feb 21, 2020 4:30 pm

A work of art RV, a work of art.


tman12
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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by tman12 » Fri Feb 21, 2020 5:52 pm

RV: Wow That Is More Than Awesome! Good Job!

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GEmering
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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by GEmering » Fri Feb 21, 2020 6:17 pm

Incredible work.
I'm drooling.

Gene
Gene Emering
Newton, New Jersey


Allan
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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by Allan » Fri Feb 21, 2020 10:12 pm

Absolutely marvelous RV. I was fascinated by the grain in the box front. I presume it is a result of the way that particular board was first cut. It would certainly make it hard to duplicate when making the matching lid, as is shown. I presume they are the same species, just milled differently.

Allan from down under.


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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by KeithG » Fri Feb 21, 2020 11:39 pm

R V, Your work is beautiful!

Keith
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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by It's Bill » Sat Feb 22, 2020 7:42 am

So it looks like RV has invented a time machine. Finally. ;)

Cheers, Bill


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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by Farmer J » Sat Feb 22, 2020 8:19 am

Sure wish I had a car worthy of such a great looking coil box!


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R.V.Anderson
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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by R.V.Anderson » Sat Feb 22, 2020 12:33 pm

Thanks for the kind words, guys. Allan, you are right; the wood is all from the same mill run of partly quarter sawn Honduran mahogany but from different planks. I try to buy 16/4 mahogany whenever possible; first, to avoid glue-ups when cutting large sections for later sawing into individual panels, and second, to allow for more wiggle room when the planks are partly or even fully quarter sawn. Trouble is, fully straight sawn 9 to 12 inch wide 16/4 can be tough to find so I usually have to settle for 12 or 10, or sometimes even 8 if I (and my customers) are desperate. Since I have to take what I can get, when I can get it, completely grain-matched lids and boxes only happen about once every three or four builds.

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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by Duey_C » Sun Feb 23, 2020 5:56 pm

Beautiful!
R. V. may I ask how these coils are hooked into the wiring?
I saw this thread, hopped up to grab a coil out of my curio cabinet and it's this type and wondered what for.
Says Splitdorf New York in a diamond on the Bakelite top.
I'd guess that the rail is positive on the posts closest to us. Is High tension on the bottom post?
Where do the four wires from the commutator attach? The other top post on the adjustment mount? That knurled nut is TIGHT.
Perhaps I can say I have the start of an N...
Thank you.
Since I lost my mind mind, I feel more liberated


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R.V.Anderson
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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by R.V.Anderson » Sun Feb 23, 2020 6:17 pm

Duey, you have it right. The timer connection is the one closest to the large knurled adjusting screw. The primary is the one in the corner, and the high tension post is on the bottom of the unit.


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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by Allan » Sun Feb 23, 2020 10:14 pm

RV, I am still a little unaware of the timber nomenclature you use. What is 16/4? I presume from the subsequent references to 12. 10 or even 8 represent some kind of grading.

Allan from down under.


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R.V.Anderson
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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by R.V.Anderson » Mon Feb 24, 2020 9:09 am

It's a measure of rough stock thickness. The top number refers to the number of "quarters" the piece has; hence, "16/4" (sixteen-quarter) would be roughly 4 inches thick; "12/4" (twelve-quarter) would be about 3 inches thick, and so on.


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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by Original Smith » Mon Feb 24, 2020 10:42 am

I wouldn't expect anything less from R.V.


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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by Allan » Mon Feb 24, 2020 5:25 pm

RV, that's interesting. Here we used the actual inch measurements of the flitch. A 9 x 2 was 9'' wide and 2" thick. I presume there is a story behind the 12/4 type of description which would convey more than just the timber dimension. I'll have to do some Googling!

Allan from down under.


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R.V.Anderson
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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by R.V.Anderson » Mon Feb 24, 2020 8:05 pm

I believe that the system developed for use on rough stock and allowed for a small range of actual sizes; measurements like those you cite were reserved for planed dimension stock.

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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by Duey_C » Mon Feb 24, 2020 9:46 pm

Thanks R. V.!
Since I lost my mind mind, I feel more liberated


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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by Allan » Tue Feb 25, 2020 6:56 am

Thanks RV. On our scale the 9 x 2" example I used, the 9 is the width of the plank at sawing. The actual measurement is 9" less the thickness of the sawblade. Likewise on the 2". A 1" thick board is roughly 7/8"+ off the saw. By the time it is planed all round it comes down to 7/8"- or 22mm in today's measure. These days the equivalent board is just 19mm thick, PAR, as they try to squeeze as much footage as they can out of the log. Trying to match old stock dimensions with new timbers means buying oversize, and wasting some to get it back down to the old measure.

Allan from down under.


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R.V.Anderson
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Re: Model N, not T...

Post by R.V.Anderson » Tue Feb 25, 2020 10:36 am

"...they try to squeeze as much footage as they can out of the log."

Yep; they do the same thing here. Nothing wrong with that, but that's the reason why, on my new boxes, the lid grain doesn't usually match the box grain: in order to maximize the salable number of board feet, the logs are usually sawn in a combination of straight and quarter. For my use, straight sawn is vastly better but is a lot less common, especially in the thicker cuts. Quarter sawn means, for me, a lot of (expensive!) waste.

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