MTFCA Forum

First off, thanks to folks who kelp this forum running. I just picked up my first Model T , a 1924
Coupe in fair condition with locked engine. Getting a model T has Been a dream of mine since I was a kid. After a few hours of penetrating oil and heat gun, finally got engine freed up. Pulled all four pistons out , making sure to mark all caps and pistons and found rod #4 backward and #1 rod cap with the triangle casting in rod cap turned opposite from the other rod caps. I’ve built several engines over the years, but never a T engine. Thought I would turn the #4 rod around correct, and
Plastigage all rod bearings. Should I turn around #1 cap. Thanks for any info and help with this.
I’d like to rebuild engine at a later date, but really just wanted to get it running and try it out first.
Also almost no wear(ridge) in cylinders and all bearings “look” good with only a little wear off original bearing finish.

Welcome aboard, Mark. Where is Wadley?

Where is Wadley?

Could be Alabama, could be Georgia.

Welcome to the Forum

Good you marked the cap and rod positions, just keep them in the same relation, don't be tempted to flip them over. They have been running in pairs in the same location for years, keep em there Doing a bit of fitting if any shims are there is good use of the Plastigage or you can use a file to remove some iron from the cap edges to get a satisfactory fit.

You want to test the cap and rod to just move a bit with a tap of a soft hammer, not finger and thumb wiggle loose or too tight to turn over the motor. Do one cap and rod at a time, pull over the crank, then loosen, do another until all are done, then tighten them all back up, the crankshaft should still turn over, not locked up.

The cylinder won't have ridges as T piston upper ring goes to the top of the cylinder.

Wadley is In Alabama. Thanks for all the quick reply’s.
I noticed rod caps have had the numbers changed in a couple, one evening had 5 slashes. I do t know why the rod was turned around
In #4. I’ve ordered new rings and will probably just hone each hole out to get a fresh wear surface. I’ve not dealt with babbet
Bearing engines, but seems a lot of learning for me in
these early cars. I’ve had caterpillar transmissions apart that didn’t seem as complicated as the transmission is in these. Refreshing to work in something that doesn’t have dang electronics everywhere. Clutch seems to be stuck too. Thanks

Could be just older caps found that were already marked, some re-babbitt those and leave old scratch marks there anyway.

Refresh rings might be good idea, and check the valves, if original they have two holes on the top for the old time valve grinding tools, those original Ford valves are iron head and steel shaft, known to come apart. Best to fit new one-piece stainless steel valves if you are doing a whole short block refresh.

Stiff clutch plates is rather normal in a T, as no true neutral, the disc stack runs in engine oil and that old oil can set up the discs to be stuck some what.

Just be sure the clutch/emergency brake lever is up near vertical, to pull the clutch lever adj. screw up, that will release the 100 lbs. clutch spring pressure off the discs so the clutch can be mostly free. When that brake lever is forward, the clutch is engaged for high speed.

Ok. Thanks for the information . I tried the park brake lever what I thought was straight up, but it still wants to pull forward when I turn engine over. It’s been setting awhile with no oil in engine. Maybe once I get pan back on maybe fresh oil will free it up. The valves in block do not have any holes on the face of them. Maybe they aren’t the old style. I thought I would lap them by hand, I’m hoping they have the adjustable lifters installed. Thanks again for the help.

Mark

That should do it, just add oil The T really likes oil, everywhere, and will cast it off regularly.

Those metal discs sitting tight together dry won't want to spin on each other's faces

The valves are likely newer, so that is good news for you too!

Hello and welcome!
Sounds like you have a mechanical mind and have a good sense on what to do.
That’s a plus.
It’s a good idea to buy the Ford Service manual that’s available through the parts suppliers that can be found on the home page of the MTFCA website.
It’s a excellent guide about working on T’s and can save you time about how to adjust this and that on a T.
It’s really a must have. You may already have one.
Hope the radiator is good. Just be aware that original round tube radiators do eventually wear out and can fool you by there outward appearance, You may one that’s been recorded and be OK. You will find out soon after you get it running.
I also have a 24 Coupe which has the earlier wooden doors. The late year 24’s and 25’s have metal frame doors. The 24 and 25 Coupes are almost identical and the late 24 thru early 25 years usually will have a mixture of parts during the transition. Not much but some because they look so much alike.
Anyway good luck with yours!

Welcome to the affliction Mark! We really like pics. Hint hint.
Is the engine out of the car and off of the big pan or is just the inspection pan off? I ask only as there may be a cheat code or 6 to loosen that stuck clutch. One running engine I have here had been sitting in a granary for 50 and that clutch was stuck hard. I beat him up badly to loosen the clutch up and don't want you to do the same.
Perhaps when putting oil in the engine, a good idea from the guys here is to take off the transmission cover door (the 6 screws) and pour a quart or so over the bands and brake band at the rear and hope a bit of oil gets in the clutch...
How about pulling the brake lever back snug and try to crank it over again?
If ya don't have a Service Manual yet; while you wait for a real paper copy, you could go to Tony's site and grab a digital version.
http://cimorelli.com/mtdl/servicemanual/default.htm
Keep us up to date.

Thanks for the idea of pouring oil over the clutch. I read
Somewhere to add one quart of transmission fluid to crankcase
And try to circulate it while depressing clutch. I’ll try to post
Pictures, I’m not the best on computers or phones. Just got
My rings in and will try to start cleaning up pistons. Thanks
Again.

As far as cleaning up or unsticking old engines a tried and proven way of doing it was using about a gallon of kerosene and circulate through the engine. This usually would work with a T if the transmission clutch was really stuck. Nowadays kerosene is kind of expensive but when it was cheap it was the thing to use with mechanics for degreasing and cleaning up old engines.

Mark: I know where Wadley is too well. Meadowcraft was one of my customers.
Email me, I know someone in Roanoke that may be able to help you. Thanks Dan.

I would definitely turn #4 around. Blue it in and check with plastigage.

Thanks, I might just try that kerosene if oil doesn’t break it loose.
Thanks Dan, email sent.

Just found this plate while trying to dig a rod bolt from
Under the flywheel. Could someone identify this before
I go any further. The oil pan was already taken off this car
When I purchased it. I tried to add the picture- maybe it will show up. Thanks

Not for sure thats off of a T. Could be a piece from the garage floor that was picked up by the magnets if the pan was already off the engine.

Here’s a couple pictures of the Coupe. Not too bad shape
For sitting over 20 years.

That’s a nice 24 and better than fair condition! It’s great that the car wasn’t left outside behind a barn. They wind up that way sometimes and the weather just ruins them after many years. Not this one though. I’ll bet the wood is still in overall good shape.

Yea, the wood seems to be in good shape, I saw some
Powder post Beetle dust on the running boards when I bought it, but no rot anywhere. Interior is good, but is starting to
Rot in a few places.

That piece of steel is a 188 outside chain link that I had made millions of when working at my old job before retiring at Wesbter Mfg, except for the hole drilled in the center of it, would know them any where!

Thanks Joe, no telling how it wound up in there. I’ll put it back
For a time when I can get around to going through the transmission- just in case. Now if I can just get that #%!% rod bolt out of There. May try removing the starter and trying to access it
Through that hole. Thanks for everyone’s reply.