MTFCA Forum

I would like to know what members are using for assembly lube in their engines?
In particular, for engines that are built and then stored for some time before being used.
Thank you, Harry Lillo

Same oil the engine runs with. The white grease that is sold for assembly lube might in my OP be good if the engine is going to be run right away, but I have seen it in engines that have sat awhile and has turned solid. Think about an engine that sits all winter, do you take it apart and lube everything, or start and run? With some thicker lubes, you don't have oil pressure so it's not going to get washed out as fast and could clog the grooves in the bearings not allowing full lubrication. Others may differ but that is my take on assembly lubes.

I have been using Perma-tex Engine Assembly lube for years with excellent results.

Just Sayin'

Hank

Used to use Kendall, but after it became difficult to find (local distributor closed down), I switched to Permatex Ultra Slick. No issues even with engines that sit for ages.

I use a mixture of STP and oil to put engines together with. I coat all the bearing surfaces with it. Then coat the cylinders with it. Been doing it since my high school days. People have different ideas about doing it and what to use to use for engine assembly.

Red Perma-Tex engine assembly lube. Stays in place and doesn’t harden.

I've been using this for 30 years and have found nothing better. Sealed Power Assy Lube

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-55-400

My son and I rebuilt a Porsche engine a number of years ago. We used white Lithium assembly lube.
The engine sat for a couple of years as the body was modified and completed. When we went to start the engine it was seized solid.
The tear-down showed the lube had hardened and kept the engine from turning.
With that material removed and new assembly lube it started in a couple of turns.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experiences.
Harry

The white lithium grease is not the stuff to use as testified by several members here, any oil, preferably somewhat thicker then standard is good. Gearbox 80W90 will do fine and is readily available from any gasstation or local carparts store.

A bit of trivia.
I overhauled a Continental GO-300 aircraft engine oh so many years ago and the overhaul manual
said to use castor oil to lube the wrist pin's.
A friend (Ray Cocking) on the airport, Flabob Riverside California, Had a replica of a WW1 Thomas Morse scout that used castor oil in its Le Rhone rotary engine. He donated a wine bottle full for my project. I still have it somewhere if someone needs a little.
Another bit of trivia
The rotary engines had a primitive carburetor that feed a mix of fuel and oil to the crankcase which lubricated the bearings ended up in the cylinders.
The castor oil wasn't dissolved by the fuel and lubricated the bearings and went on out the exhaust which I would think would cause the pilots to be Depends dependent.

John now you know why early aircraft had such small fuel tanks! Just Sayin'

Hank

John, Interesting comment on the castor oil.
I have an original Faultless board track racer with a 16 valve Type C ROOF overhead.
When I asked what the previous owner had used for lubricating the valve system I was told the
Ford oil can on the firewall had always been filled with castor oil for this purpose.
There is a thin (and in places a not so thin) layer of congealed castor on top of the head.
As a board track racer this engine never had a valve cover.
Interestingly, there is little castor oil on the fire wall or body.
It really stays in place.
Harry