Rivet or Bolt
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Topic author - Posts: 128
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 9:47 pm
- First Name: Richard
- Last Name: Davis
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 coupe
- Location: Lexington, Va
Rivet or Bolt
I had to remove the RT front fender bracket as it was bent. After straightening I was wondering if I could reattach with bolts instead of rivets. It would make the job a lot simpler. Thanks
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- First Name: James
- Last Name: Patrick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
- Location: Bartow, FL
- MTFCA Number: 50126
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: Rivet or Bolt
I would, using the proper size grade 5 or 8 bolts, flat washers and steel locknuts. The only one you have to please is yourself and it’s not as if you couldn’t replace with rivets at a later date, if you choose. This will allow you to get your T back on the road and no one will know about it, but you and the weirdo purist that crawls under your T to check . Jim Patrick
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- First Name: Val
- Last Name: Soupios
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Re: Rivet or Bolt
They make threaded rivets that you can use. From the outside they look like just like rivets. I have used them in a number of places where I had to remove a rivet and could not install a replacement without causing damage to paint etc.
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- First Name: John
- Last Name: Cox
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Runabout, 1925 Pickup
- Location: Tucson, Arizona
Re: Rivet or Bolt
My 15 came with undrilled front fenders.
I used carriage bolts. They have a similar to the rivet head shape.
I drilled the hole and then used a small file to square the hole for the bolt.
I still need to file off the markings on the head.
Deciding where the holes go is the hard part
Lots of other stuff on the to do list.
Lots of fun.
I used carriage bolts. They have a similar to the rivet head shape.
I drilled the hole and then used a small file to square the hole for the bolt.
I still need to file off the markings on the head.
Deciding where the holes go is the hard part
Lots of other stuff on the to do list.
Lots of fun.
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- First Name: Corey
- Last Name: Walker
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- Location: Brownsboro, TX
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- Board Member Since: 2007
Re: Rivet or Bolt
I made some of those threaded rivets for a headlight door, also reduced the size of carriage bolt heads on 4 bolts that hold the coil box on my 21. Easy to do with a drill and a bench grinder or a lathe if you have one.
Corey Walker, Brownsboro, Texas
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- First Name: Steve
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Re: Rivet or Bolt
Cory,
I like your idea. How to you get the nut tight?
I like your idea. How to you get the nut tight?
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- First Name: Mack
- Last Name: Cole
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Re: Rivet or Bolt
I think I used a metric bolt in some of the rivot holes like on the running board brackets.The metric bolt was a snugger fit than the statdard bolt which means stronger
If you can't help em, don't hinder em'
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- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: Seress
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Re: Rivet or Bolt
Wow, that huge nail instead of the hinge pin looks factory to me. Lol. Actually a great idea On the threaded rivet and I learned something again today. Thank you. Frank
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Re: Rivet or Bolt
If you decide to use a bolt, be sure to turn the head down to the same diameter as the rivet.
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- Posts: 2203
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
- First Name: James
- Last Name: Patrick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
- Location: Bartow, FL
- MTFCA Number: 50126
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: Rivet or Bolt
To tighten a grade 2 bolt after the slot has been ground down and the head smoothed to the size of the rivet, use a bolt that is 1” longer than necessary. Holding the threaded side above the nut with needle nose vice grips, thread on an all steel lock nut and run it up to the vice grips until you can grab the threaded end below the nut with needle nose vice grips and tighten the nut as tight as possible, then cut the threaded end off close to the nut, leaving enough threaded end to heat and brad. Jim Patrick