MTFCA Forum

I'm in the process of removing my front axle assembly to install a correct 1913 tapered front spring and also to repair a nasty spring perch that had damage and was welded partially to the axle.
What I need help with before I proceed is this:

I've never dealt with the Hassler shocks. It seems to me looking inside the Hassler spring is that a threaded tool/rod (with a pin drilled and installed cross way in it) might be needed, along with a big washer & nut, to compress the bee hive shaped spring(?) That stuff I can make.

Is there anything I need to know ahead of time to take these apart safely? I'm familiar with the rest of the front axle, and it's issues.

Thanks in advance!

Here's what a NOS Hassler spring compressor looks like.

Just be REAL careful - I've had success utilizing heavy zip ties once the spring is compressed to capture it - one on each side - leave them on for installation unless you need to paint !

Word of warning! Be very careful. I know of a fellow who got both of his front teeth traumatically removed by a Hassler spring. He said it was very abrupt and quite painful.

Be sure to refer to the Hassler Instructions, print copy avail from vendors if you haven't already. The key install is the transfer from right to left of the spring perches, needed to have the proper tilt of the axle due to the Hassler brackets. Safety first!

Thanks guys for your input. Everything came apart easily with no issues or problems!

I'm probably going to be tarred and feathered for saying this, but I see no advantage to Hasslers, especially now that you've found a nice tapered leaf front spring. I would turn the perches around the way they are supposed to be, and put the Hasslers on a shelf!

I have always seen a big difference when crossing Railroad Tracks, with just the front ones on. The rear ones to me, I don't see much difference, except that the car leans more on corners. I would have rear brakes, rather then rear Hasslers.

Herm.

I have always seen a big difference when crossing Railroad Tracks, with just the front ones on. The rear ones to me, I don't see much difference, except that the car leans more on corners. I would have rear brakes, rather then rear Hasslers.

Herm.

Well, I haven't decided whether the Hasslers are going back on or not. I'm leaning towards a yes, but I'm not 100% certain yet. They've been on the car for most of it's existence. The figure eight shackles are very worn and need to be either built up and turned in the lathe, or I look for a new pair. The Hassler bolts are REALLY worn out.

I did discover why the spring perch was welded to the axle. The threaded shank on the perch was sheared clean off! The only thing holding the shank in in was the rust. What really made me shiver was the fact that a few light taps with the hammer, and the shank came out! So virtually NOTHING was holding the home made wishbone helper in! Something told me to deal with this front axle issue sooner than later. Boy am I glad I did! The welds are "rough" ground off and thankfully the original axle will be easily saved, thanks to crappy welds that didn't stick to it too bad.
Since the perch was toast anyways, I cut it about 1/8" above the axle with my reciprocating saw, and slowly ground the rest away. Made for an easy job. The other spring perch lifted out of the axle with no tools after the nut was removed! Lucky me

I will be able to do the final visual repairs to where the axle was welded in my milling machine, and it will look like it was never messed with

The wishbone radius rod is in really great shape, but all the ball joints are worn in the steering. I guess that is to be expected....

More to come!

More pics

more pics

Good save on the axle - Lang's carries new Hassler bolts - I used to get mine from Jack Darren R.I.P. !

Darren, when finishing off the grinding marks from your weld removal, I have found that a rat tail file is very handy. It will allow you to make/repair the radius around the boss, but equally importantly, it leaves a somewhat rough finish to your work making it look very much like the original. You can use the file to give flat surfaces the same rough appearance.

Hope this helps. Allan from down under.

Thanks Allan!

Finally finished making the '13's front axle assembly correct & safe. Replaced welded spring perch, repaired axle where the welds hit it and carefully hid the repair as to only alter the original axle enough to make it right. Replaced front spring to correct tapered leaf spring assembly. Tightened up play in drag link, tie rod, & pitman arm. Repaired worn shackles. New king pins, and new tie rod pins, all new bushings! DONE! I'm glad I got this done sooner than later. The broken spring perch welded in to place could have been a death sentence! Glad I spotted it! It was very unnoticeable under the Hassler shocks.

I decided not to put the accessory Hassler shocks back on the car.

No, it won't win any Concours best of shows, but it's safe, and it still looks just the way Gramps would remember it, and that's all that matters to me

Larry, your comment above was key to my decision