Transmission end play
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Topic author - Posts: 167
- Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2019 1:49 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Burgett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Touring
- Location: Camargo Illinois
- MTFCA Number: 29590
Transmission end play
When I first got my 24,I removed the transmission inspection plate to check it out.
I found the hogshead was was completely worn out and purchased a good replacement.
I also found the drive plate had .070” end play.
The picture is with the drive plate pulled back and reverse drum pushed forward. Other picture is drive plate pushed forward.
Any idea what To look for as I pull it apart?
John
I found the hogshead was was completely worn out and purchased a good replacement.
I also found the drive plate had .070” end play.
The picture is with the drive plate pulled back and reverse drum pushed forward. Other picture is drive plate pushed forward.
Any idea what To look for as I pull it apart?
John
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- Posts: 498
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 6:37 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Meixner
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911,13,14,19,23,25,26,27
- Location: Moorhead MN
- MTFCA Number: 28023
- MTFCI Number: 20471
Re: Transmission end play
Be sure to install at least 2 bolts into the flywheel holding the main shaft tight to it. You may just be sliding the main shaft on the dowels, which would be the specified end play for the trans, but, .070 is alot.
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- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Transmission end play
Take the spring, then pressure plate off. Remove clutch plates, remove square-head bolt (side of clutch drum) and pull clutch disc drum off (it should be very tight and require a special puller) and you'll find 3 thrust washers. The thickness (wear) of those washers, PLUS the clearance between them and the clutch disc drum is pretty much the slop you're feeling. Usually a new set of 3 washers (or one new, 2 old, etc.) along with usual careful setting/pressing the clutch disc drum onto the shaft will solve the problem. There is a hole in the side of the shaft which the square-headed bolt goes into and it is fairly generous in size and allows for some up/down location of the clutch disc such that proper end float can be established. You're looking for something like .015" - .022" (or .015-.027 depending on source of info) end float when you're done. I shoot for 19-20 thou. and am done with it.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- Posts: 1302
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 2:42 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: van Ekeren
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 touring, 1916 pick-up, 1924 coupe, 1926 touring, 1927 touring
- Location: Rosedale Vic Australia
Re: Transmission end play
Taking the spring off the pressure plate is work that is not needed, 2 other ways to remove the plate are, back off the 3 finger screws then remove the plate or just evenly back off the bolts that hold the plate to remove.
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- Posts: 6435
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Transmission end play
Well, now that makes me feel a little silly...you're right. I never even thought about it that way quite frankly. Thanks for the tip!
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:12 pm
- First Name: Herman
- Last Name: Kohnke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Roadster, 1922 Coupe
- Location: Clare, Iowa
Re: Transmission end play
We have always used .015, .010 is to tight, .020 is over kill, and you can start to here it clunk.
.070 thousandths, just make sure somebody hasn't mixed older, and newer parts. See how many washers it has first.
Herm.
.070 thousandths, just make sure somebody hasn't mixed older, and newer parts. See how many washers it has first.
Herm.
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- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:12 pm
- First Name: Herman
- Last Name: Kohnke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Roadster, 1922 Coupe
- Location: Clare, Iowa
Re: Transmission end play
Always pull the clutch spring it's easy. We use a small O. T. C. press, and push the spring support down, and knock the spring support pin out, takes about 30 seconds, with a nap, in between.
Only use 1 bushing in the flywheel end, of the brake drum. The tail shaft should be line reamed, with the brake drum.
Only use 1 bushing in the flywheel end, of the brake drum. The tail shaft should be line reamed, with the brake drum.
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- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:12 pm
- First Name: Herman
- Last Name: Kohnke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Roadster, 1922 Coupe
- Location: Clare, Iowa
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Topic author - Posts: 167
- Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2019 1:49 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Burgett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Touring
- Location: Camargo Illinois
- MTFCA Number: 29590
Re: Transmission end play
Thanks for the ideas. I will check the 3 spacers. All the bushings need replaced and I will have to check the drums. The triple gears look good at first glance. I already took the spring off and will proceed with the rest. Mike Bender's videos are a great help also.
John
John