MTFCA Forum

And worrying about the universe. I’ve been putting this off for a while because it’s been cold and I don’t like changing tires. If I get somewhere without getting mad I will post the results. Wish me luck

Good decision. The Universe isn't worrying about you.

2 down

I believe "drop center's" are easier to mount with the wire rim still on the car - I've done them both ways but if you're concerned about nicking up the finish on the front side, mount from the back side.

LOL ... better learn to hunker down; we’re in the infancy of the virus here in the US. It’s a good time to sit down with a good novel or history book if you are retired. I still have to work on the weekdays even though I am not actually going into the Museum. I have a lab and studio in our home which is the good and the bad news. It means I’m
always at work.

Those drop center rims are the easiest to mount tires on. If you do it right, the first one might take maybe 45 minutes to figure out. The following 4 might take 5-10 minutes each.

Awesome studio Mark
We just went into lockdown at midnight tomorrow in Ohio, don’t know what is different between that and now though. I am not retired, have my own electrical machine control business and need to work. Customers are canceling spending money till this blows over except for breakdowns. Which there are a lot of.
I am mounting from the rear and going ok. My frame isn’t rolling enough to mount while on hub.

Biggest pain is getting the valve stem started in the hole. Cannot find my cable tool to fish it through . The rest are going good now once I got my groove. Gone now cause I sat down

All finished but got in a hurry on the last one and pinched the tube

What’s the consensus on bending the hub cap tabs? Punch and hammer? Dab of silicone to keep from rattling or will they be tight enough just bending?

Bead of silicone may work, haven't tried that. But use a wrap or two of good ole friction tape, that fills the gap and prevents rattles as the repro caps are a bit undersize.

A long screw driver or wood dowel used to bend over the tabs, typically do just every other one. Cap held firm by wheel weight, pushed tight against the wheel center when folding over the tabs.

Don’t forget to lightly stone or counter sink your lug nut mounting surfaces to prevent cracking and chipping out the paint on those pretty rims.

Hank

Henry K. Lee wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 22, 2020 7:25 pm

Don’t forget to lightly stone or counter sink your lug nut mounting surfaces to prevent cracking and chipping out the paint on those pretty rims.

Hank

thanks Hank, I do get in a hurry at times and need reminded.

Another perfect spot for a dab of the famous Ultra Black!!! You don't want those caps rattling around and messing up the paint.

Looks like filtered North Light Mark!
Best kind for gorgeous portraits! Nice posing studio there.

Mark: I should have gotten you to take the pictures of the radiator caps I posted. You would have done much better!

Good advice, Henry. I like using the stainless steel beveled washers, too. Well worth the trouble and expense Danny

Please pardon my ignorance.
What did you mean "lightly stone or counter sink your lug nut"
I am about to send my wheels off to the power coaters.

The paint or powder coat is thick and will do all kinds of funny things when you first tighten the lugs. Trim the paint off the countersink and all is good. Off the wheel, not the lug nuts.