MTFCA Forum

can someone tell me how to adjust the toe of my front wheels, how should the front wheels be? T of 1926 what sizes should I keep
Thanks, Bert van Amstel

Bert ; Ik doe het al jaren zoals op foto's met goed resultaat Toon

Bert ; Ik zet ze meest al op 5 tot 6 mm toespoor

Super Toon
Dank, ik ga het zo doen, staan volgens mij nu helemaal verkeerd, heb nieuwe bandjes dus dit even goed zetten
Groetjes Bert

Toon 5-6 mm is dat 5-6 mm na recht of 5-6 mm verschil voor en achterkant dus 3 mm voor meer naar binnen en 3 mm achter naar buiten vanaf recht bekeken

Gr Bert

Bert ; de 5-6 mm dat is het verschil tussen de beide wielen voor en achter gemeten . Dus voor moet de afstand 5 tot 6 mm minder zijn dan achter .

vgr Toon

I cannot speak the language but since the original question was posted in English I am going to answer in the only language I know. What is VERY IMPORTANT but may or may not be mentioned here is that when setting the toe in or toe out you MUST roll the car forward then back at least one full turn of the wheels to relax any tension in the linkages and spindles. If you simply set the width in front and then measure at the back you will start off OK but if you jack up the car in place and set it back down and measure again you will see that the adjustment has moved more than you might believe. Even with all bushings in the tie rod and spindles being brand new you must roll the car forward and back after each adjustment to see where your actual measurement ends up. My step father Sam Giordano (R.I.P.) ran "Sam's Alignment Shop" for 40 years in Springfield IL and I worked for him many summers while in school. In alignment shops during that time the cars front wheels were sitting on ball bearing plates that allowed the front tire to push out or in and relieve all stresses in the front end without having to roll the car forward and back to relax everything. You might think I am being a perfectionist here but someone setup my newly acquired 1915 roadster show car and they didn't heed this warning and it ended up with a huge amount of toe-in and ruined the front tires on the first tour I was on with it while my worried mind was monitoring everything else very closely on that first tour. I din't think to double check that adjustment. Wheel ball bearing plates were pinned to the frame rails on the alignment rack until the car was driven in place and then the pins were pulled out to let the front end relax and there was ALWAYS movement once the pins were pulled out. It takes a bit longer but I have a flat place in my garage and I chalk mark the floor to make sure I move the car about 8 foot back and then 8 foot forward since one complete revolution of the 30" diameter tire is just under 8 foot (2.44 meters?). I do agree with marking a center line in the tire but I use white chalk against the rubber tire while spinning the tire against the chalk and then putting a small finishing nail into a board and holding the head of that nail against the rubber tire and it marks a nice black line clear around the wheel. I have a BEAR tire scribe tool here that I use. My step dad gave me a set of weaver alignment gauges and that tire scribe tool. Alignment is critical to tire wear on the front but setting it wrong can really ruin your tires quickly.