MTFCA Forum

I finally was able to get the engine in my 26 chassis today. I had a ear on the right hand side of the oil pan that was pushed in towards the transmission so I straightened it before I put it in the chassis. I had a little trouble getting bolts in the top holes and was going to cut some new wood blocks tommorow for the sides of the chassis. But the handbrake lever is bumping the 2 sections that are threaded for the driveshaft bolts.Actually will "lift" the back of the engine slightly.
There are no cracks in the ears that I can see, they are straight now. Looking back into the cobwebs of my mind it seems there was a spacer between the handbrake lever brackets and the chassis and I don't see them there now.As if I had forgot to put them back?
I don't understand why the engine would be sitting level as in not 1 sided, and and straight in the frame but the hand brake thing be rubbing like that . I found this thread with a google search but it address's a Broken ear.Which I don't have.http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/41 ... 1404600651



I would hate to have to pull all this thing back apart as I just got it together yesterday after YEARS of laying around.

Mack, it may be a blessing in disguise. Rather than space the handbrake cross shaft down, you could run a piece of 1/4" insertion rubber under each pan ear. This will lift the rear of the motor a little and reduce vibration in the car. I did this deliberately when fitting replacement ears on my 1915 speedster and it made a noticeable difference.

Allan from down under.

thanks for the idea!

There should not be any spacers under the mounting brackets for the cross shaft. Maybe the shaft is bent upwards? If the engine is sitting as it should, there should be plenty of clearance.

If you are using a 26 engine and hogs head, the rear of the crankcase should not be bent downward because of the two bolts at the top ears of the hogs head. However, sometimes the frame sags in the area near the crankcase ears which would lower the back of the engine. This same problem will alter the fit of the hood at the cowl. First thing to do is start checking for straightness beginning with the chassis and then the ears on the crankcase. Next would be the cross shaft for the brake. If all these are straight notice whether clearance is correct with the brake handle straight up. Also check the front of the crankcase where it fits into the mount at the top of the front spring hanger. It should be straight and seated with the cap bolted down.
Norm

Is your handbrake cross shaft bolted with the ears on each side to the underside of the frame or topside of the u shape bottom part. Since the holes line up it has been a common mistake. Just a thought. Frank

I have the brackets on the bottom of the chassis.Now that I have had time to think,this thing has been rough handled,maby loaded with a fork lift at some point before i got it. I will compare this hand brake crossover peice to another 1 I have and see if it is bent.Thanks for the hints fellows. I have serious doubts it is the chassis BUT a peice of string and a few minutes will answer that 1.

Are the cross shaft mounts for a TT any different than for a T? Shorter maybe? I know the TT cross shaft itself is different, but the mounts too maybe???

Mounting brackets are the same T or TT.
Re; Is your handbrake cross shaft bolted with the ears on each side to the underside of the frame or topside of the u shape bottom part. Since the holes line up it has been a common mistake.
Can't be done with shaft in place.

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 01, 2020 12:34 pm

mounting brackets are the same T or TT.

Well, it was a good idea, while it lasted. Thanks Mark...

Well, Last night I was pooped,tired and all that other stuff and just could not figure out what was wrong.So I ask about what could be wrong. I had to mow the neighbors yard this morning for my "play money" and then had the old ears ringing headache for a while.
BUT The good news is,when I went to the shop I took the hand brake assemble off and used a large square and determined it was bent both Upward and forward of it's correct alignement. I had noticed it was a bit stiff when moving it but I was not going to apply oil until all was painted up. So with a torch,a heavy vise and alot of grunts and pushes, It is now straight and works as it should without hitting the oil pan. What it amounts to is apparently when I took the chassis to be sandblasted, it had no running board brackets. That was the lowest point on the frame so when dropped,it bent the shaft.

Great news. Glad you found the problem and it was easy to fix.
Norm

Great news. Glad you found the problem and it was easy to fix.
Norm