MTFCA Forum

I have the speedometer book but I don't see this one listed. I see the type that has the drive out pin held in place with the coller and the one with the nut but not this one. How do I take the two half's apart? I don't see the Stewart name on it, that is why I wonder if it's a clone?

You have an early Model 1913 Stewart swivel. This swivel was introduced in 1913 after the forged steel swivel and had no name cast into the swivel body halves. The cup on the bottom of the swivel is pressed tightly onto the intermediate shaft which holds the swivel halves together, and it is difficult to get off. Be very careful or you will damage the pot metal housings when splitting the halves apart. I hope this helps. Russ Furstnow

Upon looking closer at you photos, you have the final series of a Stewart Model 1800 swivel. I see the knurled nut and washer in the photo. This is a very rare 1911 swivel, so be VERY careful taking the swivel apart. Russ Furstnow

Need to put some penetrating oil on the grease cup and let it soak so I can get it off at least to start. The machined part sticking out in the 2ed from last photo is smooth no knurls or flats to turn with so it just a pressed on cap unlike the later ones that were a ring type retainer? Ouch, that maybe outside what I can do, not real good at delicate stuff, kind of clumsy when it comes to small things like this so I guess I will just soak it and wash out as much crud as I can and relube. The only way I could see me getting the cap off would be to drill a hole in it so I could use a drift to tap the pin out, or is that the only way it could be done?
Right now this one has a good amount of slop but would work for the amount of miles the car will have put on it, early 1912 touring. I may not be able to get the slop out, but do need to clean and lube at the very least. Yes to the funky nut and retainer that holds the gear on the pin.

Mark, Either drill a hole in the cap or grind the end off the cap to expose the shaft. Then punch the shaft out of the pot metal body. Also, you will need to tap the cross pin out of the input gear shaft to remove the input gear from the lower housing. I hope this helps. Russ Furstnow

Mark, the pin which holds the input shaft in place is tapered. It will only come out one way. Look closely to be sure you are driving it in the right direction.
Allan from down under.

Mark

from your description, this may be a part that should be sent to Russ or someone with the tooling and experience to get apart with the highest probability of success. From my experience with potmetal parts in speedometers and phonographs, there a million ways to do this sort of job wrong and only one way to do it right and sometimes even that takes a fair amount of good luck. Not all jobs are do-it-yourself jobs, which is why we have speedometer repairmen and dentists.

Scott, not too far off as to what I was already thinking. I am going to talk to the owner and see what he would like to do. This may even be a case of finding the correct one for year. ? I didn't know the pin that holds the drive in was tapered, but I did note the one end had a smaller hole so would have driven from that end anyway. Thanks for that info.