Possible steering shaft replacement

[dhosh]

I got rid of much of the 'slop' in my steering ('24 RPU), but still have quite a bit in the steering column, before the pitman arm even starts to move. It's mounted tight, so the slop is in the upper end with the gears, or in the box. I got the bottom shaft nut off, but so far haven't been able to get the pitman arm off. It's spring check-up time, and thought I would revisit it. I don't know if I can get by by getting a rebuild kit for the top, or if In need to replace the full shaft, or not. Any suggestions? I don't have a torch to heat it with and (at least last year) soaked it multiple times, over a week, to try to get it to loosen up. I do have a pickle fork, but was afraid of damaging the steering box.

[Henry K. Lee]

Dennis,

Loosen the nut and leave about a 1/4" gap between the nut and pitman arm. With a ball pen hammer, strike against the pitman arm around the radius of its mount. Now take a large drift punch from the top and place it at the best angle to force it off, one or two good blows and it should come off or loosen.


Hope this Helps,

Hank

[dhosh]

Sounds like a plan! I'll give it a shot....Thanks!

[Allan]

Dennis, if you can rustle up another pair of hands to hold something heavy, like 4 pound hammer, on one side of the pitman arm while you give it a few good whacks on the other side, it usually helps to break it loose. This may get things started if hammering on a drift does not.

Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.

[Nv Bob]

Slop also can be coming from the case and rivit at the column top

[John Illinois]

How I took mine off.

[RajoRacer]

I've had success with this puller.

[dhosh]

Well, of COURSE there's a tool for that! LOL ...
Interesting puller, RajoRacer!

John ... I will have to see if I can find my puller kit ... I don't remember it having a clamp option like that .. although, it sure would be handy!

[John Illinois]

Dennis the clamp is a bearing splitter not included in puller kit.
Rajo, single purpose tools from the day are neat.
John

[dhosh]

Hank... That did the trick. I gave it a good soaking of PB Blaster over night, and hirlt it again this morning. Bi wasn't so lucky with the throttle and timing rods. Those pins appeared to have never been out. The bottom prawl for the timing rod, appears it might be welded on. Can I get the steering shaft out, with it left on? I drove out the 2 pins from under the quadrant as well. I'll read the service manual on it again... But always sounds so easy, THERE!

I didn't find any combination of pullers or misc clamps to pull it off with.

Here's a link to the upper gear slop, I hope to fix...

https://youtu.be/YDQjFz1cK_0

[Mark Nunn]

Dennis, remove the steering gears and lower the top. I assume you are working on your RPU. The shaft can be pulled out from above if the pitman arm is removed.

[dhosh]

Hi, Mark new paragraph I have one of those large roll-up windows in the back of the rpu, and it appears as though the steering shaft should be able to go through that, without problem. The shaft doesn't want to come out even with some light tapping at the pitman arm end. I did get the pitman arm off, though! I don't have the service manual in front of me, but seems like it said to take off the fuel and timer Rod's as well. The timer rod won't come out, as it appears the arm for the control rod is welded on. Looks like I might need to cut it off, and order new rides? it doesn't seem like they should need to be removed to get the steering shaft out. But, I have been wrong more than once before!

[Mark Nunn]

I replaced my shaft since the gear pin holes were wallowed out. I had the same problem getting the shaft out. I discovered that the portion of shaft that is inside the steering column housing was rusted. I just kept pounding until the rusty portion went past the gearbox. The new shaft dropped right in.

[dhosh]

Very good. And the carburetor and timing rods didn't need to come out, then, just to get the shaft itself out?

[Mark Nunn]

Very good. And the carburetor and timing rods didn't need to come out, then, just to get the shaft itself out?

Correct. I think that procedure is in the service manual.

[DanTreace]

Dennis

IMO, would be easier to lower your top, not sure the angle of the column will let that long steering rod go out your rear window. And, IMO, best to just remove the entire steering column, and work on the disassembly on the workbench.

The steering rod is free to slide out the column without removing the control rods. It just has to make it clear of the lower column bracket on the frame.

Removing the the whole column isn't hard to do, remove bolts from the steering bracket on the frame, remove bolts holding the column to the firewall, and slip the unit up into the car, resting the upper end on the seat backrest. Then the bracket is now in up in your face to approach that little rivet holding the small spark lever arm, you have to remove that arm to pull the steering rod and control rods out of the bracket. The bracket has to come off before you can remove the column thru the firewall hole.

Sometimes with effort, you can do that with the bracket on the frame, but access is limited, besides, the bronze bushing in the bracket is worn normally, and slop is there, so best to do the whole job on the workbench.

[dhosh]

Cool! I was probably reading the section for the removal of the steering column, not just the shaft.!

Thanks!

[DanTreace]

I drove out the 2 pins from under the quadrant as well.

Those rivets didn't need to be removed to only pull the steering rod.

To replace, those need a good bucking to secure, all the more reasons to pull the whole column and do the job on the bench. Now you can pull the steering case too and inspect the upper metal column as sometimes cracks are there that cause wiggle in the case.

[dhosh]

OK ... got the whole shebang out. As the communicator lever was welded on, and the carburetor link lever wouldn't come off even after I got the pin out, I cut both rods, and will have to replace. The steering rod was still a devil to get out, but now that it is, it's a good time to clean everything up. Although this isn't a show car, I would like things to be as proper as possible. As it's a '24, during the 'black' period ... should the rods be painted black, once in? So far, the only ones I've seen for this year are stainless.

I assume, after I replace the bushing in the steering bracket, that it will need to be reamed. I'm surprised there isn't a bushing at the top, under the steering gears.

[DanTreace]

For a '24 the control rods were nickel plated, down about 7" or so. The new repro stainless will work fine, and look like nickel, but no polishing ever

Yes, you will need to ream the new bushing in the steering bracket. Getting old one out has to push out only one way, easy to cut first a notch or two and then it will collapse to push out.

There is a washer at the top of pinion of the steering cluster, the pinion which holds the steering wheel, you can shim or replace or make a new one if there is lots of wear there, most times the washer is OK. Have found if you get the cluster case top re-nickeled, that adds a tad of surface too to the inside of the case shaft opening, helping subdue lateral slop.

Note the large washer, that is what helps with keeping things tight and keeps grease from running up the shaft out of the cluster case.
The other pinion has its washer removed.

[dhosh]

Looks like it's going back home to look at the shop manual again. My steering bracket is a Ford script T932B. after knocking the old bushing out it is obviously a way different bushing than the t 3545 c steering bracket bushings I got. The one pulled out is about 7/8 diameter OD, and the requisite 3/4 ID. The bushings I have are 1 in diameter OD, with 3/4 ID. So, looks like I need the t 3545 b2 bushings for a 26-27??
The bracket I have has one bushing at the lower end next to the pitman arm, and inside there is a bump in, like the thickness of another thin bushing, but it certainly doesn't want to come out. And hitting it with a hacksaw blade a couple times, returns steel shavings, not brass. well I can't say steel shavings but possibly the same material that the bracket itself is made out of.

So, maybe I have a 26 27 bracket? With only 1 bushing?

[DanTreace]

Dennis

Your bracket with casting # 932B is correct for your '24 , that bracket only uses one bushing at the bottom, earlier styles used a bushing at the top.

That bracket only has one bushing at the lower end. That is why my previous post noted the bushing only goes out one end. The center of the bracket has a step in the casting, you can't remove or drive bushing in from the top where the grease cup goes.

The bushing for that #932B should be 1" o.d x 3/4" i.d.

[dhosh]

Ok... That makes sense to me now... Except the hole for the bushing is only 7/8"... Not 1". The bushings I have (ordered to do last year, but couldn't get the pitman arm off, that go-'round). And the 7/8" bushing seems to have only been used for 26-27. ... Unless I have some strange transition version bracket.

[DanTreace]

Dennis

Odd indeed, can't explain, all the castings #932B I've had use the 1".

The Improved Car casting #932C uses the 7/8", but that casting is very different, main visual is the dope cup is at an upward angle.

[dhosh]

Strange indeed. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow.... I'll try and spice a bushing locally, bit already have a couple ordered from Snyder's

Thanks!!

[dhosh]

Here are the pics...

About 4 3/8" long

With the bushing end having just under 7/8" diameter for the bushing.

With the felt 'grease keeper' at the other end. (The grease cap has been removed)

[dhosh]

I'll take the burrs off the upper bush-less section. What should that measure? Just minimally ream it? So, the grease can pass? Should the lower bushing be cut or 'x'ed, to allow grease, or just team to fit the new column, and call it good?

[DanTreace]

Dennis

Odd that 7/8" o.d. lower bushing, oh well, that is what you have if keeping that steering bracket.

There isn't a bushing at the upper grease cup end, and the steering post rod should clear the opening fine, the felt seal at the upper keeps grease from riding up the rod, and kinda forcing the grease down toward the bushing. Gravity and rotation does the rest.

Ream the bushing to provide a nice fit of the steering post rod, sometimes the rod if not worn out there undersize just needs a polishing. An adjustable reamer is used to get a nice fit of the post rod to the bushing. You're after less slop there. No need to cut or make grease grooves in the bushing.

[dhosh]

0 very good, Dan!

Yeah, I got a new steering shaft as mine was a bit pitted and rusted where are the grease fitting would be. It wasn't all that bad where the bushing was but what's all that consistent in diameter, is it really took a little bit of force to get it out. So, the new stuff should go in pretty well. I do have a set of adjustable reamers, so, should be ready to go! Thanks!

[DanTreace]

That's great Dennis

Just a note, FYI, had a fellow call me on trouble fitting new 5:1 gears to that new 5:1 repro post shaft. After several advise attempts, like lapping the gears, etc. , he found that the welded on upper plate of the repro shaft had just a slight tilt to that platform that holds the 3 pinion posts.

That tilt threw off the dimentions between the new gears enough to cause them to not mesh. Trip to a machine shop fixed it. Don't know of other with the same, but at least one case of repro part paralysis

[dhosh]

Well, the 7/8 bushing fit after some slight Clea up of the empty bore, then reamed the bushing to fit the new steering rod . I cleaned up the other end where the felt washer goes, got rid of some burrs there, then primed the bracket. Then I dismantled the steering head (took the control rods off), cleaned that up, and primed. Also primed the column. So, I thi k I'll be ready to reassymble it tomorrow, after I paint and let it dry. It will be interesting to see how far off the whole combination is .. if at all.

[dhosh]

Thanks for all your help, Dan... And others! Everything is back together again, and after a little work on one of the new steering gears (it wouldn't fit in any of the pins, nor certainly turn on any)... Everything works like a champ. I can now better tighten up the linkages up front, but there is very little slop there

Biggest issue... Which pre-existed the steering refurb... Is the spark control attachment on the timer, rubs against the fan belt when the spark lever is all the way down. Now that I have a tight control rod, I should be able to get it adjusted properly.

It sure will make a difference in the steering!

[fordt]

While this is fresh in folk’s minds, just pulled my steering shaft and noticed that there is NO pin protruding below the shaft that would go into the gear case detent. Going to put 5:1 gears in anyway, but do the replacement items from vendors have one pin that goes all the way thru? And it’s the one in line with the pitman arm key way on the other end, right?

[Mark Gregush]

Yes in both cases. The pin kit I got had 4 pins, 3 short 1 long.
https://www.modeltford.com/item/3518SB.aspx

[dhosh]

Yes, FordT.... Mine had both pins as well... A short and long. I got a new shaft kit as well. The long pin went in fine... Just make sure it's in to the brass recess virtually all the way to the bottom... But not to where it drags or catches I had one of the new geard that I had to burnish the inside as well as the rough edges, but when done, it's smooth as budda.......