MTFCA Forum

I’m a complete novice on the model T. I moved two years ago and parked my 1917 in the garage where it still is today. I decided today to go out and start the car. I checked oil, gas, and coolant levels first and attempted to start. It actually started in about 2 or 3 pulls but wouldn’t stay running. I reattempted to start it with no further luck. I then noticed that fuel was leaking out of the air intake. I shut the valve and drained all of the fuel from the tank and carb. The fuel was nasty and quite frankly smelled more like varnish than gas. There was also a used oil looking residue in the bottom part of the tank. I have a holly nh carb. I suppose a good cleaning is in the works. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

You USED to have a Holley Carb

You now need a REBUILT Holley Carb. You will be most unhappy when you take it off and pull the bowl off of it.

Drain the old gas out of your tank then take a flashlight to look inside of it. Hopefully it’s not gummy on the bottom BUT it probably is to some extent. Hopefully it’s not to gummy but be ready to remove the tank if it is. You might put a gallon or so new gas in it, let it set for a few days and drain it again to get some of it out. Try that first and see if you can most of it out. Good luck.

I would also take that gummed up carb, and soak it completely in a can of lacquer thinner. There's not much to these carbs,
and soaking it for a day in that just might be what the doctor ordered. I'd definitely try it. I've done it with success. And of course, you'll have to repaint it!!

You could clean the carburetor then use a temporary gas tank like a small lawn mower tank to see if it will run with clean fuel. I had a tank that was coated with sealer back in the 70s and the ethanol fuel dissolved that coating and gums everything in the system. Hopefully you just have old fuel but if it is ethanol then the alcohol molecules will bond with any moisture in the tank and form a goo on the bottom of the tank. Some additive such as seafoam my help lubricate the valves.

Gasoline with ethanol added to it, typically starts going bad after 90 days. If you have a source for non-ethanol gas, you should use it in your T, instead of ethanol gas. It lasts much longer, especially if treated with “Stabil”. To find places in your vicinity that sell non-ethanol gas, go to: www.pure-gas.org. Aerosol spray type carb cleaners have a xylene base, so, it stands to reason that xylene would do the best job of melting the sticky varnish in the bottom of the tank so it will flush out. Some members have suggested putting pebbles (small smooth river rock from the garden center) in the tank with the solvent and sloshing it around. The pebbles will help to dislodge any varnish that has solidified. You can get a gallon of xylene from Lowe’s or Home Depot for this purpose. You can also soak the metal parts of the carburetor in xylene. If you have a cork float, you should remove it first before soaking. Jim Patrick

Having it not continue to run was a blessing. Had it ran long enough to get warm most all of your valves would now be stuck. There has been many,many motor homes scraped because this very same thing happening. Next time they went to start them the valves being stuck on an overhead valve engine will usually bend push rods and valves. Yes best to drain and clean it up now. Good luck.

I removed the tank and carburetor today. I poured xylene in the tank and did several rinses that brought about two or three cups of nasty varnish like sludge out. The carb was actually pretty clean. I ordered a new set of gaskets to reinstall the carb. Will continue to work on getting the tank as clean as I can. It’s really not too bad though. Thanks to all that replied.