Floor sealer help
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Topic author - Posts: 18
- Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2019 12:17 pm
- First Name: Brian
- Last Name: Sheller
- Location: Oregon
Floor sealer help
I've rebuilt a floor for Dorothy and would like to find a good sealer from the weather that is also somewhat heat resistant to the exhaust!
Looking to see what you smart folks have had luck with.
Here is a picture almost finished.
Thanks!
Looking to see what you smart folks have had luck with.
Here is a picture almost finished.
Thanks!
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Re: Floor sealer help
I use linseed oil Mike
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Re: Floor sealer help
50:50 mix of mineral turpentine and black enamel will soak right in and leave a matt black finish which roughly duplicates the original black finish. Two coats may get a little shiny.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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Topic author - Posts: 18
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Re: Floor sealer help
That's very helpful! I assume Linseed will leave a wood finish and black is black.
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Re: Floor sealer help
If you're going to use linseed oil, you'll want to use BOILED linseed oil unless you're 5 and plan to live to 90+ because it might be dry by then.
Know two things:
1. linseed oil, boiled or otherwise is a wonderful nutrient for mildew. I discovered this when restoring antique wood frame windows in Florida. Mildew on those sections of those windows was the gift linseed oil gave me and the only cure for it was to sell the house
2. linseed oil, boiled or otherwise is highly prone to spontaneous combustion when on rags and the rags are piled together. Anything contaminated with it should be put outside and disposed of in a metal container with a lid
Know two things:
1. linseed oil, boiled or otherwise is a wonderful nutrient for mildew. I discovered this when restoring antique wood frame windows in Florida. Mildew on those sections of those windows was the gift linseed oil gave me and the only cure for it was to sell the house
2. linseed oil, boiled or otherwise is highly prone to spontaneous combustion when on rags and the rags are piled together. Anything contaminated with it should be put outside and disposed of in a metal container with a lid
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Floor sealer help
I like Alan's suggestion of thinned enamel, especially black. But, I have a couple of suggestions to add.
First, Alan said "Mineral Turpentine." As a Painting Contractor for many years, I have to say I never heard of that particular product. There's Turpentine, and there's Mineral Spirits. Actually, I'd not use either - I'd use Paint Thinner. The Mineral Spirits you can buy today is a mildew magnet. Turpentine may not agree with today's Enamel paints.
I'd also suggest you use the very best quality Enamel (oil-based, of course) that you can get. You'll only need a quart, so the cost difference is not significant. Chances are, a Marine quality Exterior paint would be best.
Second, your biggest exposure to the possibility of your nice-looking floorboards going bad on you, is the de-lamination of the plywood due to water getting in to it. You should pay extra care to sealing all edges, and don't forget the edges of the cutouts. Here, I'd use the Enamel straight, and apply 2 or 3 coats. That would be a good idea on the undersides, as well.
As for the Enamel acquiring a glossy look, simply buy "Flat" enamel. It has chemicals in it that form microscopic bubbles as it dries, giving you a flat look. But the paint film is as good and hearty as Glossy Enamel.
Don't forget to lightly sand between coats. That produces a "Tooth" that helps the next coat to adhere.
First, Alan said "Mineral Turpentine." As a Painting Contractor for many years, I have to say I never heard of that particular product. There's Turpentine, and there's Mineral Spirits. Actually, I'd not use either - I'd use Paint Thinner. The Mineral Spirits you can buy today is a mildew magnet. Turpentine may not agree with today's Enamel paints.
I'd also suggest you use the very best quality Enamel (oil-based, of course) that you can get. You'll only need a quart, so the cost difference is not significant. Chances are, a Marine quality Exterior paint would be best.
Second, your biggest exposure to the possibility of your nice-looking floorboards going bad on you, is the de-lamination of the plywood due to water getting in to it. You should pay extra care to sealing all edges, and don't forget the edges of the cutouts. Here, I'd use the Enamel straight, and apply 2 or 3 coats. That would be a good idea on the undersides, as well.
As for the Enamel acquiring a glossy look, simply buy "Flat" enamel. It has chemicals in it that form microscopic bubbles as it dries, giving you a flat look. But the paint film is as good and hearty as Glossy Enamel.
Don't forget to lightly sand between coats. That produces a "Tooth" that helps the next coat to adhere.
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Re: Floor sealer help
Peter, natural turpentine is a product of distillation from turpentine pine. The only time I have ever used it was when I was oiling the stock on my .22 Brno rifle. It gave a beautiful matt finish, the smell of which even my wife liked.
I suspect mineral turps here is what you call mineral spirits. It is used to thin oil based enamels. I use the 50:50 mix as a stain coat on T timberwork, rather than painting same. The thin stain coat does not hide the grain in the timber, leaving it looking black as it should without making a full coat which can be scratched/marked in use. Penetrol, a paint thinner/brushing improver, does the same, but at greater cost.
Allan from down under.
I suspect mineral turps here is what you call mineral spirits. It is used to thin oil based enamels. I use the 50:50 mix as a stain coat on T timberwork, rather than painting same. The thin stain coat does not hide the grain in the timber, leaving it looking black as it should without making a full coat which can be scratched/marked in use. Penetrol, a paint thinner/brushing improver, does the same, but at greater cost.
Allan from down under.
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Re: Floor sealer help
Brian, Looks like you custom made your floorboards, and I notice your pedal openings are non standard. All Ford floor boards had the reverse cut out the same as the other pedal cut outs. Also, the pedals move sideways as they move forward, make sure there is adequate side clearance so the pedals do not bind at full throw. The wood between the pedals is thin and weak, the Ford solution was to add a metal plate that provided some additional strength, they were offset slightly to provide an interlocking function to keep the two floorboards from shifting, and also provided a decorative trim. Shifting and binding floorboards are a safety item, those trim plates are not optional in my opinion.
Regarding a sealer and heat protection, neither is needed, any black paint will do the job.
Regarding a sealer and heat protection, neither is needed, any black paint will do the job.
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Re: Floor sealer help
Anyone use dyes?
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Re: Floor sealer help
Here is a post from a couple years ago that I started on the topic of floorboard paint.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/82 ... 1526399602
I ended up using oil based Rustoleum semi-gloss black thinned with acetone. I was really happy with the results and it has been very durable.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/82 ... 1526399602
I ended up using oil based Rustoleum semi-gloss black thinned with acetone. I was really happy with the results and it has been very durable.
1923 Touring
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Re: Floor sealer help
I don’t know what Ford actually did when putting some kind of paint, sealer or whatever but I bet it wasn’t much.
I sometimes think it just could have been some sort of overspray and done quickly at best.
I sometimes think it just could have been some sort of overspray and done quickly at best.
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Re: Floor sealer help
The purpose of mixing turpentine with enamel is to thin it down enough to allow it to be absorbed deep into the wood to form a 1/4” deep barrier to moisture which becomes a part of the wood. The same thing can be accomplished by thinning clear satin Polyurehane or satin Varnish with mineral spirits, if you would like a clear finish for your floor. I have never found that mineral spirits was a magnet for mildew, as it evaporates after a short time and does not stay on or in the wood. Boiled Linseed oil, on the other hand, does not evaporate and stays in and on the wood. Jim Patrick
Last edited by jiminbartow on Wed May 06, 2020 10:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Floor sealer help
I am a fan of what Jim just prescribed...wiping varnish
Varnish...not polyurethane, thinned significantly with turpentine and applied with brush or rag. Multiple coats, which will soak in. After that, you may overcoat or not as no additional protection is needed. If you like natural, then you're done. If you want paint, then paint.
Varnish...not polyurethane, thinned significantly with turpentine and applied with brush or rag. Multiple coats, which will soak in. After that, you may overcoat or not as no additional protection is needed. If you like natural, then you're done. If you want paint, then paint.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Floor sealer help
Brian, I like the grain on your floor. It would be unfortunate to cover it. The original floor was still in my ‘26 coupe, when I bought it in 1970. The only finish it had on it was 44 years worth of dirt. Jim Patrick
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Re: Floor sealer help
I had good luck years ago with Olympic oil based wood seal. If you ever want to paint it, don’t use the silicone type as silicone will not hold paint. Jim Patrick
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Re: Floor sealer help
I am perennially amazed at the number of ways to “skin a cat” that arise on the forum whenever a problem is posed for solution. Usually a few recommendations are diametrically opposed, and some reflect misunderstanding of materials or methods, although they seem to have satisfied the person who offered it. Our collective wisdom in these cases reminds me of the Hindu parable of the five blind men and the elephant.
It’s hard to go really wrong with paint. Perhaps the best advice is what my dear old dad would tell me back when I was in my ‘teens ; “Use your own judgement son, as poor as it is.”
It’s hard to go really wrong with paint. Perhaps the best advice is what my dear old dad would tell me back when I was in my ‘teens ; “Use your own judgement son, as poor as it is.”
"Get a horse !"
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Topic author - Posts: 18
- Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2019 12:17 pm
- First Name: Brian
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Re: Floor sealer help
Humble, thanks for the input. Pedal openings are not standard. I did have my daughter test the pedals once the boards were installed and I seem to have clearance where I need it. I suppose a quick trip around the block will reveal if any other trimming in necessary. I've seen the kits that reinforce the area between the pedals and think I may fabricate a reinforcement.Humblej wrote: ↑Wed May 06, 2020 7:21 amBrian, Looks like you custom made your floorboards, and I notice your pedal openings are non standard. All Ford floor boards had the reverse cut out the same as the other pedal cut outs. Also, the pedals move sideways as they move forward, make sure there is adequate side clearance so the pedals do not bind at full throw. The wood between the pedals is thin and weak, the Ford solution was to add a metal plate that provided some additional strength, they were offset slightly to provide an interlocking function to keep the two floorboards from shifting, and also provided a decorative trim. Shifting and binding floorboards are a safety item, those trim plates are not optional in my opinion.
Regarding a sealer and heat protection, neither is needed, any black paint will do the job.
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Topic author - Posts: 18
- Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2019 12:17 pm
- First Name: Brian
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Re: Floor sealer help
Thanks Jim. I like the looks of the natural wood also, but I'm concerned about water penetrating the laminate. This car is driven is all sorts of weather and, especially with an open top, will likely see ALOT of water here in the PNW.jiminbartow wrote: ↑Wed May 06, 2020 10:37 amBrian, I like the grain on your floor. It would be unfortunate to cover it. The original floor was still in my ‘26 coupe, when I bought it in 1970. The only finish it had on it was 44 years worth of dirt. Jim Patrick
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Re: Floor sealer help
I'm a fan of Minwax wood hardener. Its acetone based, penetrates into the wood with a resin that waterproofs too, and can be stained. Read about it and the reviews https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/ma ... d-hardener
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
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Topic author - Posts: 18
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Re: Floor sealer help
That looks great the the link gave a ton on information! Seems weird our friend Google couldn't find that when I searched...Dan B wrote: ↑Wed May 06, 2020 9:16 amHere is a post from a couple years ago that I started on the topic of floorboard paint.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/82 ... 1526399602
I ended up using oil based Rustoleum semi-gloss black thinned with acetone. I was really happy with the results and it has been very durable.