MTFCA Forum

So I am was curious why no one produces rear lowering brackets for a 26-27 T? I've seen the brackets on eBay that Bill sales and they look great but was hoping to find a set for my 26. I understand the rear crossmember is different in the later cars but could a laser cut bracket be made and used for the later crossmember?

If anyone has any information on either the drawings for a bracket (early crossmember bracket will work) and instructions on where to cut the frame that would be very helpful.

Thank you

I believe this is want your looking to know (captured from MTFCA) This is what I wish I could have - I understand the something like these extensions were available as an accessory

Another solution is to make a new rear main leaf with reversed eyes and a lower arch.
I have two cars running with this setup. It gives you about a four inch drop.
The remaining leaves need to be re-arched in a hydraulic press which takes some time but is worth the effort.
We are fortunate to have a spring shop here in Calgary that will make the main leaf for us.
Harry

I have listed them many times with few takers. Two sets remain.

Hank

Other methods http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1242265839

Dang,I wish I had known about that method when I was working on the rear axle of my T. During the assembly that woulda been the time to reverse the houseings.

Hank sent you a PM about the brackets.

Everyone thank you for the information. If anyone has additional info please add.

Thank you.

Was hoping to make a set like below but maybe with more drop

I was told by a speedster guy that the front drop should be slightly lower than the rear. More drop? Good YOUTUBE Video drop front and back https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKtB6mmj6eY

That 3rd pic that Frank just posted is the way I would have done mine had I not been iffy about cutting up a T chassis.The way I did things is reversable at whatever point it may be feaseable

Lots of beat-up frames around that could be used - Z bracket needs frame cut. But is it advisable to weld vanadium steel like that (3 pic)

The sweeping Z is a nice touch on an exposed frame, but can be in the way if you have to push the seats back to clear long legs. And can also be a bit sketchy if your welding skills are a bit... sketchy

I went with a strap iron lowering brackets as I needed extra vertical clearance for my oval fuel tank. The brackets are bent up from 2 laminated strips of 1/4” thick strap iron that sandwich the top and bottom frame rails. The fuel tank brackets double as reinforcements for the lowering brackets. All bolted together...

Kevin
Interesting setup. Looks great.

Sweeping Z variant

I don’t think this example is very safe. I’d never let a loved one use it. I think it could be saved with added fishplate inside, outside or both. jMHO

BillyBobsSpeedShop wrote: ↑

Tue May 12, 2020 10:42 am

Kevin
Interesting setup. Looks great.

I had to figure something out as I didn’t have any 3/4” plate to torch the brackets out of...

A word of caution when you are lowering your T speedster, if you get a bit carried away it is possible to rip out the oil drain plug loading into your trailer. I learned this the hard way!!

Great info everyone! Really enjoy seeing the different options and approaches to lowering the rear!

Two year ago I rebuild a 1920 frame from a speedster.
The change was 5" .
The original frame was rusted so far that it needed a replacement.
The rear is done as the old one . For the front I used parts I found 5 or 6 years ago on Ebay.

Good luck
Andre
Belgium

This may help, this is the drawing for the brackets pictured. It's a 5" drop, anymore than that you're skating on thin ice. Enjoy

Thank you perfect!!

Don't EVER box just a portion of a frame rail!!! A lot of people think that is necessary, but while that indeed creates a very strong joint, it also creates a box tube that will not flex while the rest of the frame will. That will cause cracks in the frame at the end of the boxed section in the frame flanges and it will be worse than if it wasn't boxed at all. Welding frames isn't rocket science, as a lot of people think. Most frames aren't much more than mild steel, until you get into semi truck stuff, which are high tensile steel. That isn't a problem either if you use the correct welding rod. Just a SMALL reinforcement on the inside of the joint on the bottom flange or the inside of the rail (so called "fishplate", which shouldn't be any thicker than the frame itself, if that thick) is all that is needed, and that is only if you don't get a 100% weld joint. In the last 40+ years I have seen all kinds of "NECESSARY" reinforced weld joints that either failed or were about to. JMHO Dave

Hanks brackets