I'm lost on this one, Help.

[Jim Sims]

Got a engine giving me nightmares. Will not run on all 4. Good compression, good spark but not getting fuel to number 2 cylinder. Any ideas?

[RajoRacer]

Intake leak or cracked intake manifold for starters.

[Rich Eagle]

Stuck Valve?

[mtntee20]

Check your intake manifold for obstructions such as a wasp nest. This was the cause of another engine's problem here recently.

Good Luck,

[Norman Kling]

I don't think it is a wasp nest or other clog in the intake manifold because 1 and 2 share the same intake port. If the intake valve were stuck, I think it would also affect #1 because instead of drawing fuel through the manifold #1 would be taking drawing compression from #2. So if it really is not getting fuel, I think you have a stuck exhaust valve on 2 so that it is drawing exhaust from the manifold instead of fuel. So check the exhaust valve on #2.
Norm

[RajoRacer]

He stated that it had "good compression" - if that's the case, it couldn't be a stuck valve ?

[Kerry]

Had a 3 cylinder T once, good compression, turned out that the adjustable tappet had backed off, if it still has solid lifters then check that the cam still has a lobe.

[jiminbartow]

When did it start doing this? What did you do to the engine between the last time you remember it running good and now? Jim Patrick

[Wayne Sheldon]

A truly stuck valve will remain open and give no compression. However, a "sticky" valve may "float". It takes a nearly a second to close, which is fast enough to pass a standard compression test, but even at an idle (say about 300 rpm, four cycle motor, 600 cycles per minute), the valve must close in a fraction of a half cycle. Or roughly less than a twentieth of a second in order to have proper compression.And of course much faster at any higher speeds. So you can see how a sticky valve can in fact pass a standard compression test, yet fail in a running engine. Often, the offending valve can be heard by a trained ear at either the carburetor of the exhaust pipe depending upon whether the offending valve is an intake or an exhaust. There is also a test using a stiff piece of paper or a light cardboard held over the end of the exhaust pipe for if it is an exhaust valve. The exhaust gasses should flow out continuously, pushing the paper/cardboard out somewhat steadily. A slightly burned or sticky exhaust valve will cause a momentary "suck-back" causing the paper/cardboard to slap the end of the exhaust pipe. Intake valves are a bit tougher to test, but usually, will cause more running issues with interference with fuel flow to the neighboring cylinder, or even coughing back clear through the carburetor.

[bobt]

Check your firing order 1-2-4-3

[Jim Sims]

Well Kerry hit it right on the nose. Intake adjustable lifter loosened and turned in to the point it was not opening the valve.

[Dallas Landers]

Glad you found it Jim. I was going to sugest turning the car around and see if it made number 3 cylinder not work.

[Kerry]

Glad to be of some help Jim, I'll charge you the same as all my T work and advice, a freebe
As a rule when I do re-builds I set the push rods with just a 3/4 turn from bottoming out and set the valve lash/clearance the old way of stem grinding to avoid this from happening.
Happy T'ing

[Oldav8tor]

What an outstanding example of online engine diagnosis. It was fun and informative to read.