MTFCA Forum

I’m working on a project and I need to make some sheet metal rust. I’ve seen the generic instructions on the web saying to use a mix of peroxide, vinegar and salt... it doesn’t sound like it gives a real significant rust coating.

I’m sure some of you have gone through this before, I’m new to it.

Many thanks!

Go to www.micromark.com. Select menu in the upper left hand corner (3 horizontal lines), choose “hobby supplies”, scroll to bottom of list to “weathering” for all kinds of weathering patina chemicals. Jim Patrick

Hi Jim

Most of what I find there are paints and pigments, and the sizes are for models. I need to do a few square feet, and need to force the metal to actually rust. Thank you for the idea, but it doesn’t seem to be quite what I need.

Parking steel or iron near an open container of muriatic acid will cause rust right away.
Not sure how it affects brass and other non-ferrous metals.

I 'paint' bare steel with soldering flux. I don't know what acid is in it, but it sure helps things to rust.

Allan from down under.

I'm sure you want something faster than this. I daubed a little paint on and sprinkled my new coupe door with water and added salt. Patina is usually uneven rather than a solid color like paint is. New rust is brighter than old rust so it didn't match but that may not matter that much.

If you don't protect it, it really don't take long to rust. If it is galvanized, you will have to sand through the coating. I did spray some bleach on a few parts to help start the process.

Procedure to patinate plated core plugs for a rebuilt-but-doesn't-look-it engine...

0. As purchased
1. Sanding belt
2. Sandblast
3. Vinegar wash
4. Peroxide wash

Steps 1 and 2 were necessitated by the pre-existing galvanizing. Step 4 took just a few seconds.

Muratic acid will do the job in a very short time, but be careful - this stuff is evil if you get it on your skin. Wear gloves, protective clothing, and eye protection. Avoid breathing the fumes too.

Set it out in the Arizona sun in August for a few days. That will rip the hide (or finish) off anything.

I just tried the process I found on line, it did pretty well. Basically it was spraying it down with vinegar 5 or 6 time to pickle the metal, then using a mix of 16oz Hydrogen Peroxide, 2oz vinegar, 1/2Tbsp salt. Spray that on and let it sit in the sun. I didn't expect it to work well but it's doing the trick (I'm using it on a test panel). It's not a very deep coating, it can be removed easily, but it's enough to make it look rusty. I think I can let it age naturally after this, it's enough for a kick start.

Many thanks!!

Glad you got it done. This is a great DIY video on rusting it. Pretty much the same formula but stresses decreasing the metal first of fingerprints etc, slight roughing with sand paper, spray with straight vinegar to etch the metal then after it dries to start spraying on the formula t.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjAPyFQGYp4

Natural “patination” in progress here. Heavy rains the past couple of days, apparently the hood hinge leaks like a sieve ! No doubt the spark plug wells were full of water when I cranked ‘er up this morning - I never thought about it. I’m a little surprised the plugs weren’t shorted out by all that water. Six miles later everything is nice and dry. New rust is the prettiest shade of orange !

What you might want to do is go to a place that supplies ornamental iron workers. They have DOZENS of products that will give ANY conceivable finish, and do it with one application, RIGHT NOW.
When those guys need a apply a patina, they want to do the whole job, just once, and immediately. Whatever the patina finish, the jobs have to be delivered complete. Most iron-workers, or artist-blacksmiths have got a whole blend of different shades and patinas they can apply to the finished project, to make it all the same. A lot of times, customers will specify the finish they want, out of a book. Most of these finishes are variations on rust on steel, or aging or patinizing of copper to a certain color or shade.
It hardly makes sense to mess around, experimenting with different chemicals, and trying to get the right age effect over a long period, when you can just do it in 2 hours on a Saturday morning, and it's done.
At least look into it. You might also find a finish that you hadn't considered, that you wind up liking better than your first idea.

Can I ask a simple question, and hope it doesn't draw too much ire....

Why would anyone want to PROMOTE rust? It NEVER sleeps, will cause body cancer, and eat through steel. I've worked all my old car and old machinery life to negate the result of iron Oxide...

Yet people WANT to deliberately rust stuff to make it look old... and thereby make it deteriorate all the sooner...

Someone, please explain what this "draw" is to artifically advance the material failure of something which we're fighting to keep from an early grave...

We fight over the same subject when dressing up and re-enacting the 1700’s. I build flintlocks and knives, everything I work on has to have patina. Build a brand new rifle and beat it with various objects to give it a worn look. Others build their stuff new with the thought that items didn’t look 200 years old when they trampled through the woods back then.
Same with autos, a lot of folks like the patina. Me included!!

Susanne wrote: ↑

Mon May 25, 2020 6:52 pm

Can I ask a simple question, and hope it doesn't draw too much ire....

Why would anyone want to PROMOTE rust? It NEVER sleeps, will cause body cancer, and eat through steel. I've worked all my old car and old machinery life to negate the result of iron Oxide...

Yet people WANT to deliberately rust stuff to make it look old... and thereby make it deteriorate all the sooner...

Someone, please explain what this "draw" is to artifically advance the material failure of something which we're fighting to keep from an early grave...

I don't think my girls would would look good with lipstick.