MTFCA Forum

So, I'm tardy getting my 1922 Touring started after the winter. Got it started today, but the exhaust is puffing very loudly - almost too loud for me to hear how well (or not) the engine is running.

I'm a novice here.... Is this common after sitting idle for some months? How might I diagnose the problem? I let it run and accelerated it for a little while, but still puffing loudly.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Steve

Couple of maybes here Steve.
If it seems to be rough running also, maybe a valve is sticking ?
Possibly something nested in the muffler over the winter ?

Shouldn't be that loud. Have a look at the muffler and the exhaust pipe connection to the manifold. The big brass nut sometimes likes to come loose.

Maybe there is a sticking valve, but the engine doesn't seem to running very rough to me - sorry, that points to another question. How do I go about diagnosing if there is a sticking valve?

Regarding the muffler, how might I go about looking for a mouse nest and get it out? The muffler doesn't come apart, right?

Sorry to open a pandora's box. Appreciate any further advice.

Steve

For a sticking valve. Start by shorting each plug wire one at a time...if one has no change=that cylinder is not firing. They generally run pretty poorly on 3 cylinders though.
Then I would check compression if you found a problem.

Actually if it’s a authentic T muffler, they do come apart.
Where does the sound seem to be coming from ?
Up front or near the muffler ?

Is there a chance that the motor backfired during this resurrection from hibernation?? Would not be the first T to “puff” the muffler shells loose

A dead miss can sound like it’s chugging or ‘puffing’ if it hasn’t run for a while. It depends how you interpret the sound. Short out each plug one at a time. If it still is missing could be a dirty timer. Don’t know what you have but clean it also. Check for any loose wires. Check the coils. Are they all buzzing as you turn the engine slowly over with the crank?
Then if you think it’s a valve remove the manifolds and see if the intake manifold has a mud wasp or critter nest in it. Could be one or a combination of those things or a stuck valve.
A way to check for a stuck valve is to remove the valve cover and slowly turn the crank and check if all the valves are moving up and down.
Old inline engines are similar in that you unstick a valve by using a pair of pliers and slowly turn the stem back and forth with a pair of pliers. You won’t hurt the stem to get it move. If it won’t move it’s really stuck!
Bet it’s something simple though! Good luck!

Sometimes the carburetor adjustment too rich or too lean can cause a puffing noise, but usually not real loud. Most noticeable at idle. However a stuck valve could also make a loud puffing if the fuel is being ignited in the exhaust system.
Check all of the above.
Norm

Take a compression check is the easiest way to check for a stuck valve

I ran into something like this once.

A friend bought a '16 T from ebay..."runs great" they said...

it made the most god-awful sound you ever heard. Soon realized that the #2 cylinder's exhaust valve would not open and the exhaust was blasting out the intake every other cycle... The adjustable lifter was broken off and the piece that broke off was never found. The previous owner was a bald-faced liar. "Runs great" indeed. After solving this, it was found that the center main was beaten out, despite being a new bearing in a rusty shell in an otherwise pristine interior. Someone obviously tried to make that car a driver, despite it's knocking, farting and snuffing. Following a replaced lifter and center main cap, the car finally ran great.

I doubt that this is necessarily what you have, but it matches your description.

I don't own a compression gauge set. Any suggestions on a decent one that reasonably priced?

harbor freight compression tester is cheap and functional,

however...
1) I recommend the adapter from the model T parts suppliers over the rubber tip of the tester jammed in the spark plug hole
2) a lower 'resolution" gauge - 0 to 100 rather than 0 to 300

for the same cost, a leakdown tester gives more info (you'll still need the spark plug thread adapter)

Perhaps I missed someone's response, but what about a blown exhaust gasket between the manifold and block? Not what I would call a puffing sound, but, maybe? Where exactly is the noise coming from?

Thanks for the advice. I’ll short it out and I’ve ordered a compression/leak tester. May be back to the forum once I have results to report.

To check for a stuck valve all you have to do is pull it over center and feel it, you will feel some resistance at each TDC and nothing at the bad order, a gage is not needed for this. If a stuck valve is discovered remove the offending spark plug and tap it down with a wood dowel. If the situation is severe you may have to repeat the process several times.

So, if the car ils running smoothly it's not likely to be an exhaust valve stuck or burned. As mentioned though, a compression check will help narrow things down. Where is the puffing sound coming from? Out of the tailpipe? Do you hear it most when sitting behind the steering wheel? Tighten up the big brass exhaust pipe nut, then check to ensure all your spark plugs are tightened down. You may have also blown a gasket in one of the plugs allowing for some blow-by right through the plug itself. If you are running newer motorcraft plugs on the one piece design (non-removable porcelain center core) they have been known to blow by due to poor insulator seating during manufacture.
Terry

I see you are running two threads on the same topic.
Terry