MTFCA Forum

I was hoping someone would start one of these because I've done some things. Didn't see one so I'll begin.

I finnaly finished the front bumper on my Delivery/ Hack. The mounts are the rear mounts from a 1930s A with a tiny bit of modification and the bumper is from a 30s A also.


I also finished the Chalkboard side panels for the car. These slip in and lock and easily come out depending if you want to drive a delivery or open it up for passengers as a Hack. The Chalkboard will make it easy to change the logo or sign depending on the mood of the day.

While the motor is out, took apart the front end for rebuild.
The front spring was a put together of some straight cut leafs, and was worn. So replaced it with a fresh rebuild, leafs sanded down, primed, coated with graphite paint, and then covered with nice black. The axle was in rather poor shape too, one perch fell out, both yokes were well worn at the upper hole, and one side had stripped threads. The wishbone sported a very 'egg' look at the ball, never saw one that worn, like a tear drop egg! In fact, two shims fell out from the crankcase socket! Was too worn to shim, should never have been used to begin with. That piece is being replaced too.

Now all the parts are inspected, fixed, painted and ready to go back in place. . Another axle that was ready to go, another tie rod, and new tie rod bolts, drag link was salvaged and ok, and another wishbone with solid very round ball of right diameter.

Replaced the dashboard wiring harness in my '27. A couple of the wires were deteriorating and although I am insured, I would hate to lose my T to a fire.

John, if you haven't already, you can install a fuse in the location shown in the diagram to protect everything downstream from the starting switch (except for the starter and starting wire itself):

I never posted any T work in May because I didn't do much. Busy with other stuff. Now I'm back in the game, fixing Lizzie's broken windshield. I replaced the broken upright with a piece cut from a junk frame. Did a couple of manifolds while I was at it.

Blasting in the cool of the morning.

Uh-oh... That's not good.

Digging out the crack for filling.

Crack filled.

Earlier I repaired these rounded-out carriage bolt holes, and today's job was to fill the little craters around them.

Slathering on the flux.

Melting on the body solder.

Spreading it around, trying not to burn up my stick.

Nobody will ever accuse me of being a skilled body man. I'm calling this good enough for gummint work.

These 3 photos are looking up at my rain-rails at the front of my Coupe top. When I made these rails I made them straight and bent them on the car. I knew the pine would cause problems and here the nails have pulled out as the wood gets old (7 years). Today I mixed up some West System Epoxy that is a dozen or more years old. The 2 fluids still pour out even at 10% left each. I dobbed the epoxy in and pulled both sides in using a furniture clamp. I will let it sit overnight and see how well it worked. I had enough epoxy left to re-glue two moldings back in place. The one shown and one above the quarter window. These had been glued with Elmer's and no nails. Not bad for 7 years I suppose. As with the rest of this car I am experimenting with different things that may not be the best choices but I'm learning a lot from it.

Some clean bench time, rare thing in the garage, usually doing some greasy, gritty stuff.

So received the plastic rebuild kit for the '25 coil box, and new brass screws, nuts, and porcelains, along with new bronze contacts.

The old box had been restored in the past reusing contact and porcelains, and with heavily varnished plywood that was about splitting apart.

Now the box is good for at least another 50 years.

Every contact and brass screw got soldered together for best electrical connections.

Well after 2 1/2 days without power after the storm, it was time to clean up some damage. Who says work cant have fun mixed in.

Dallas Landers wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 13, 2020 7:03 pm

Well after 2 1/2 days without power after the storm, it was time to clean up some damage.

20200613_150813.jpg

Who says work cant have fun mixed in.

You back on the grid now buddy ?

Yup. Just livin the Amish life for a couple days. Country boy can survive !

Dan, I like your coil box rebuild. I recently bought the parts from Lang’s to do the same rebuild.

Darin

Wrapped up over a month of concentrated effort to get the 13T running, again. Over the last week-ish I made a new gas line, cleaned the carb, set the timing on a new anderson anco flapper style timer, and got the old girl running for the first time in years. (Well for a few moments before I had to stop it so the engine didn’t overheat due to no radiator. Have one on order with Brassworks)

Darin

Took the coupe apart enough that I'm going to sandblast the frame tomorrow...

the fun part will be getting the car all back together and driving while it's still June 2020. I think I can make it.

.

Putting in a complete exhaust system.

The repairs to the rain-rails reported Friday seemed to work. I installed some long screws to help hold them tight against the roof structure. Some thin paint followed by rusty waster hides the shine. As it turns out some of the new aluminum moldings are working away from the body. My solution was to force them back in place using a 2x4 against the wall and then against a heavier chassis. Then drill and countersink for a wood screw and grind the head flush. I though some might enjoy the improvised board where a C-clamp won't work.

Lots of thumbs up from family members with this one. After sitting on bare springs, boards, foam, bare gas tank etc, we ride with some comfort.

My starter quit working so I pulled it and found the lug solder connection had broken. So I repaired it and decided to check my three shelf starters. Two of the three had the same problem. It turned out to be a starter fest with help from Shop Cat #3.

Nearly finished the rebuild of a 1912 magneto coilring.
I will post a few photos of the job in the next 3 posts.
Her are the first.

Andre
Belgium

second
Andre
Belgium

Last post.

I need to build a new contact point and coat the coilring.
Andre
Belgium

Drove in 2020 NORTH PLATTE HIGH SCHOOL GRADUATES PARADE . Grandson Paul

I took a quick bath in LA’s Totally Awesome Cleaner. That’s the end of this story. It started when I removed the inspection cover to adjust connecting rods. It was the first time I’ve done that and wasn’t prepared for the ensuing mess. I made a jig for my floor jack like the one many of you have seen Steve Jelf use to remove a rear end assembly. I raised my front axle until the tires were about a foot off the ground to drain the oil out of the dips. I let it drain for a day. While maneuvering the cover around the various rods underneath, it tipped and poured a substantial amount of oil onto my face, hair, shoulder, etc. My creeper had an oil slick on it.

After said LA bath, the connecting rods looked decent and number 2 rod and cap were recent replacements. Number 3 needed to be taken up, which was the source of audible rod knock. Strangely, the shims were solid brass and mic’d at .033”. They were not laminated. I sanded them on a surface plate to .029” to get a proper fit. I’m waiting for a replacement rod nut since one on number 3 stripped. I also ordered a new set of proper shims to replace the solid ones I have now.

How about finishing up a 25 year restoration? Mark and Phil Eyre's '11 Torpedo is done. Looks like a decent job to me...
Seriously folks, the car is absolutely stunning.

Mark, I have seen many posts where the front of the car was raised a foot or so to drain the oil. That doesn't work, think about it. In order to drain the dips in the pan inspection cover, it would have to be near vertical to get much of the oil out. Raising the front a foot would only drain a very small amount of oil out of the dips. Take a pan inspection cover and fill it with water and tip it up a foot on a board or something that is the same length as the wheelbase of a T. It ain't going to drain much more. JMHO Dave

For the first time I pulled out my Delivery/ Hack out of the garage. I needed to spin it around and put in the shop the other way in preparation to lift the body to remove the fenders and splash shields. It took 7 months to build the body and the whole time I kept worrying that it would be to tall. It clears the door by 1 inch. No problem. I wanted to finish all the body movement before putting in the Windows.

Remember, you can always let the air out of the tires,or at least some of it, so it fits a little better under the door. Then air them up and go for a ride.

Jim, with only 1" clearance I would suggest wedging a board between the ground and the open garage door to make sure that it is open as far as it can be and stays that way. You put too much into your truck to risk damage.

Most garage door openers have up and down stop adjustments on the control unit. Adjust the up stop so that the bottom of the door rises up enough so that you have use of the entire height of the garage opening.

Hmmm, what have I done in June 2020?

Well, I chased down a miss in cylinder 3. Having ruled out fuel and spark I decided that a valve job was in order. When removing the head the center bolt under the firewall became rounded off for some reason and would not budge at all.

After a week of fooling around, it became apparent that the bolt is seized in the head, not the block, and will have to be turned out by spinning the entire head.

Therefore I have to pull the engine. While I'm in there I'm going to inspect the clutch spring, and clutch disks and replace as needed.

Also thinking of switching to kevlar or wood bands and now would be a convenient time to do that.

And maybe a couple of internal accessory oil lines.

And maybe powerwash and paint the hogshead. And the crankcase. And the head.

I'm sure I'll think of something else . . .

The head ain't gonna spin unless the valves are sunk hopelessly into the block, and I doubt that

Soak it with penetrating oil and then weld a nut onto it or otherwise hit it with some super heat, fast. If that doesn't do it, pull the firewall and drill it

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 17, 2020 10:06 pm

The head ain't gonna spin unless the valves are sunk hopelessly into the block, and I doubt that

Soak it with penetrating oil and then weld a nut onto it or otherwise hit it with some super heat, fast. If that doesn't do it, pull the firewall and drill it

It spins.

I can turn it enough to expose all of cylinders 1 & 2 and about half of cylinder 3. The only thing that stops it is that the head hits the firewall.

It seems pretty clear that the bolt seized in the head and was never tightened snug into the block, but I'll find out for sure when I get the engine out.

Off topic! LOL I spent the day getting the 1920 Dodge running. After doing some moving around and taking down a fence I moved the 25 into the back yard. Between bring over the extra Dodge parts and very soon the car, I have a T rear end to build. Can you spot the Ford parts, no not the Hasslers.

Mark:
you will really like the Dodge Brothers touring … I have had 7 DB cars over the past 35 years , currently have a 1925 touring … powerful and reliable cars … also , the Dodge brothers club offers much technical support as does the MTFCA … if I can help with questions please do feel free to ask ...always an optimist...Gene French

Thanks for the fuse tip, Cudaman.

I took my bride to the new house Im finishing up about 5 miles from home.Then we took the the 25 or 30 mile long way home. Weather is 75 and sunny. Around a couple lakes and miles of country road at 20 mph and the old pickup got us home just as the sun was setting. What a great way to end the day.

Gene_French wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 18, 2020 9:14 am

Mark:
you will really like the Dodge Brothers touring … I have had 7 DB cars over the past 35 years , currently have a 1925 touring … powerful and reliable cars … also , the Dodge brothers club offers much technical support as does the MTFCA … if I can help with questions please do feel free to ask ...always an optimist...Gene French

Thanks Gene.

I Installed the wiring harnesses on my '26 Roadster. Engine runs but no generator or magneto. After I scrub up I will polarize the generator and inspect the magneto post.

I also made a mental note to give this car to my grandson when the battery needs to be replaced. While contorting and hooking up the battery cables on the maintenance free battery I realized some high school kid at the gas station was probably stuck with the cruddy job of removing three caps and adding water.

Changed the oil and adjusted the low and brake bands, lubed everything, and checked the tire pressure.
Adjusted my OF once more and I really think I found the sweet spot.
Went to get some gas yesterday, as soon as I back out of the garage and turn around, it started pouring !!
Maybe today....

Rebuilt the rear spring on the '25 Coupe, 8 leaf.

Used 6" grinding pad, cleaned off rust, and rounded the contact edges of the leaf ends for good sliding.

Now a coat of primer, that keeps rust stopped.

Let that fast dry, then coated the contact surfaces with graphite paint.

All-threaded rod and pulled the stack together, then held it fast with large C-clamps.


Lastly, pulled the all-rod, and placed the proper spring bolt and nut.

I spent most of yesterday under my 20 roadster taking up the rods. I haven't adjusted them since 2008. They all needed .003 from each side of each rod cap. (1 shim of the stack). She's noticeably quieter! While under there, I remembered a tip that Mark might use. Chevy 350 rod bolts work well but you need to remove the knurling by the bolt head for them to seat. this is easily done by chucking the bolt in a drill and use a flat file to file them smooth. Self locking rod nuts are then torqued on. I had done this years ago and saw the mixture of old cotter pinned nuts and the locking ones. I torqued them all to 35 ft/lbs but the modern bolts can take 40 ft/lbs easily. Took her for a spin to WallyWorld to get a motorcycle battery.

Drove the TT to beakfast

Dallas, The TT is a beaut and looks like you're putting 'er to good use! Nate

Thanks Nate. Its pretty dirty from living in the barn but I think its at home there. Its a real joy to drive.

I just wish Dallas would paint those rear fenders! Just looks tacky man! Are you from Tin-A-See?

Hank

Hank, T's are never really finished are they.

Finishing up another one. Clean, but not gussied up yet for it's photo

I have my engine and trans sorted out and even drove down the lane and back. Currently I am working on the top bows. The bent wood bows need shaped to fit inside the metal bows and be cut to the length needed for the correct overall shape. Here is a picture of the bows wired together at the correct hieght and shape with the exception of the front bow that needs to be shorter to be closer to the windshield. Art

I've spent most of June on other chores, but just did this bit of Model T work. The patient for this treatment was the pan from my 1923 touring.

Before doing the actual job I had to adjust a frame to the correct 211/2".

There were two problems with the pan arms. 1 The holes didn't line up with the frame holes.

2 The ends angled up off the frame rails so much that I had to raise the front of the body to get the engine out of the car.

It would be pretty tough getting a bolt through that.

Apply pressure with clamps and heat to orange.

Heat to orange, line up holes, let it cool.

Sitting much flatter, hole lined up.

Ditto on this one.

June has been a good month to get allot done. I have jacked up the body, removed and painted the fenders then reinstalled. Painting betwen storms was a bit tricky but i managed it. I have also come to think I will paint a chalkboard on all my vehicles, it makes it easy to keep track of what need to be done so I don't forget.

I gave the TT a bath to get rid of the bird bombs and barn dust. Also adjusted reverse and brake bands in the pickup, opened up the holes in screen to 7/16. Complete lube job.
They are ready for the open road.

When I finished restoring our 15 runabout in April, the one thing that I wasn't happy with was the anemic chirp that came the reproduction reed. Well yesterday the local Flatland T's club had a workday at Gary Paulsen's place to work on an upcoming T display at the local museum. I mentioned my horn reed situation to Gary, who shortly afterward brought me a box of vintage reeds for me to find a better one.

After I got home I swapped out the reed and wow, what a difference. It now sounds like I have a large Canada goose trapped under the hood! I didn't know how nice and loud that horn should really sound. It is great that we have people in the T community who are willing to share their knowledge or parts on occasion with a fellow T owner.

For those that don't have a bulb horn on their T's, the reed goes in the straight tube just below the bulb. Also shown in the picture is an aftermarket steering column brace that I added. Our 21 touring has one, and before I added this to the 15, you could tell a difference in how solid the column feels. Like a transmission screen and outside oil line, I think that this is one of those aftermarket items that's worth having.

Reinstalled front and rear axles along with wheels and tires. All rebuilt. A huge thank you to Andy Loso! He did all of the rebuilding.
Wheels are from Stutzman's. I'm only the reinstallerr![attachment=1]IMG_20200628_155527.jpg

Michael

Remember for a long time that the Ford Motor Company was just an assembler. Dodge Bros and others made their parts for them. Consider yourself and early Ford guy.

Good eye Mr Jelf! You are correct. I just haven't got around to fixing that. I'm hoping I can trade my '16 plate for a '15.

Being a new owner I look forward to driving my Manchester built 1921 TT with some trepidation! Today was no exception. I have owned the truck since October 2019 and have only driven it 3 times.
Covid19 "lockdown " has been spent changing the colour from a garish red and white to a more sombre green but, the wheels remain red. There have been many other jobs to do as old vehicles often have. Today however was a special day. I have found out that it was registered to use on the highway for the first time 99 years ago 29th of June 1921.The old girl didn't let me down!

It wont let you down if you dont let it down. Very nice and I like the green.

Thanks Dallas, I look forward to the pleasure of a "different way of driving "!

Paul, I drive mine all the time. A chance to slow down and really enjoy the drive. I drive once or twice a week in my TT. You will become comfortable with the fact that it will get you anywhere and back. You just need more time than other vehicles.

Like tonight. I drove to the firehouse for our work night.

I replaced the worn-beyond-use front shackles on my Runabout. I was hoping that properly aligned perches and springs would bring the caster back to nominal. That did not work. I still have way too much caster and I need to study why before making a 4-ft bending iron.

Paul, don't worry about driving. I expect you'll get used to it pretty quickly. Millions of people have. With a TT you won't have to worry about going too fast.

Ended the month blasting an oil pan and a pair of engine pans.