MTFCA Forum

I "borrowed" this photo that was posted by Duane from another thread . It shows the exhaust pipe with a dent to clear the hogshead.


My pipe does not have a dent but it is really close to the hogshead. It is about 1/4" away and I'm concerned about what the heat would do to the hogshead and oil inside. I don't have much experience with my Runabout yet, having driven it all of 7 miles. Is my concern unwarranted?

worry not.

What Scott said. The photo appears to show a non-original exhaust pipe setup, what with the flange thingy on the manifold end of it, so possibly the heavy dent was necessary because of it. As long as you're not touching the hogshead with the pipe you're good. 1/4" of space is fine.

The one on my '15 was the same way (down to the "dent"), I straightened out the dent issue and while it's alost touching, it hasn't caused an issue... The bigger issue is heat damage to the floorboards... the asbestos "paper" is starting to come apart, and I don't know what to use as a replacement (or a patch) for it...

For peace of mind, and if you're not worried about authenticity, you could buy and wrap about 12 inches of the exhaust pipe closest to the hogshead with exhaust header insulation tape, like Speedway Motors and most speed shops, sell.

Susanne. You can find what you need at McMaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com. Insert “heat resistant blanket” in the search box and heat resistant materials will come up in various sizes that will withstand temperatures of up to 1800 degrees F. Jim Patrick

There were many repro exhaust pipes bent up incorrectly years ago - there might even be some still around !

jiminbartow wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 24, 2020 5:51 pm

Susanne. You can find what you need at McMaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com. Insert “heat resistant blanket” in the search box and heat resistant materials will come up in various sizes that will withstand temperatures of up to 1800 degrees F. Jim Patrick

Thank you, Jim!!

All T's are made that way. Not a problem.

Most hogsheads have a small spot where the exhaust pipe rubbed its own clearance already... and never seen signs of burnt oil on the inside of a hogshead either.

Not all T's were made that way. On RHD cars, the pipe is well away from the hogshead, as it has to get around the reverse pedal. There is a unique set of bends required to get the pipe past the pedals and clear of the foot starter switch. When doing up the packnut I jam a flat tyre lever between the reverse pedal and the pipe, as the nut tightening tends to screw the pipe towards the pedals.

Allan from down under.

Glad to help Susanne. Do you apply it under the floorboard between the exhaust pipe and floorboard wood? Let us know how it turns out. Sounds like a good fire prevention safety precaution that others might be interested in using. We hung this material vertically, around various jobs in the welding shop of the Railcar Repair Facility where I retired from, to protect other workers, passersby and/or, exposed painted surfaces from grinding and welding sparks and molten slag. Very effective. Jim Patrick

Simple, inexpensive way to go with exhaust wrap. I have this on the header of my daily driver and after, even after an hour of driving I can touch it, something you would never do to a hot exhaust. This company has several alternative methods to a wrap - Sold in many automotive stores and on-line. I recommend these
https://www.thermotec.com/products/exhaust-insulating

The stuff on there is like a heavy card stock made of asbestos... attached to the floorboard where it gets close to the pipe. I used a heavy duty stapler to re-atttach one corner where it came loose, but being original floorboards I don't want to mess with them too much... although they're really starting to show their age (cracks, etc.), so eventually I'll have to figure out the best way to preserve them, or replace them...

Frank. What holds the wrap in place so that it does not unwrap? Do you use a special heat resistant tape? Jim Patrick

jiminbartow wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 25, 2020 12:33 pm

Frank. What holds the wrap in place so that it does not unwrap? Do you use a special heat resistant tape? Jim Patrick

stainless steel "zip ties" or bands

jiminbartow wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 25, 2020 12:33 pm

Frank. What holds the wrap in place so that it does not unwrap? Do you use a special heat resistant tape? Jim Patrick

They use stainless steal zip ties. came with the wrap that I purchased but available separately.
Here are some instructions - wear gloves wrap gets a bit sticky - messy - Suggest spray water was you go instead
https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/thermotecwrap.pdf
Frank

Susanne. When old asbestos starts breaking down it can release dangerous fibers in the air that, when breathed in, can damage the lungs and the body has no way of processing those fibers out of the lungs, so, there they remain. With all the vibration of the Model T, combined with the air generated by the car and wind from the forward motion of the car blowing up into the cab, you may have a dangerous situation on your hands. If you can replace that old asbestos with something safer, I would highly recommend it and if or when you do it, make sure you wear a mask and gloves. There is a reason cleanup crews use full hazmat suits and full face respirators when cleaning asbestos out of old buildings. I wouldn’t worry about doing damage to the original floorboards. That asbestos was, no doubt, added by an owner after he bought the T .and had the same concerns expressed here, regarding the effect the exhaust pipe was having on the wooden floorboards, but back then, the hazards of asbestos were not known. Jim Patrick