POR-15

[Marty Bufalini]

Who has used this on a chassis, what prep did you do, did you use a brush, did it leave brush marks and did you like the results?

[Rich Bingham]

On a ground up restoration I sandblasted a bare frame and brushed it on. It levels well. I then top coated it with enamel, because POR (at the time) decays fairly rapidly if exposed to UV. This was over 20 years ago, maybe they have changed the formulation to obviate that ? POR is a very hard coating and durable. I liked the results.

Subsequently I have used it variously over rust, doing nothing more than removing grease/oil and loose scale, again brushing. The results have been good “imho”.

[mtntee20]

Marty,

Follow the recommendations on their web site. You do not have to use their products but you do have to follow the steps.

POR-15 and Chassis Saver are urethane paints. They need moisture (from the atmosphere) in order to cure. They continue to cure over the years. Being a urethane paint, they are not Ultra Violet Light resistant. Thus, you have a choice: topcoat or do not topcoat. The original paint retains ALL of its benefits even if it does turn grayish.

I prefer Chassis Saver as it is a thicker paint. If you read the procedures, you will find a requirement for paint thickness for full protection benefit. To obtain that thickness with POR-15 you will need to put on two or more coats. I have found, even with one coat, POR-15 does a good job at rust control.

Good Luck,
Terry

[Henry K. Lee]

You are purchasing a bandaid in a since of thinking it is best. Sand blasting, scratch wheel prep, etching primer, 2K priming, sanding with prep, then 2 coats of acrylic enamel. Nothing comes close to tried and tested results. Have seen POR (Paint Over Rust) 15 act just like powder coat (Not Paint) static charged acrylic plastic of various sorts, causing long term damage by allowing moisture to hold under the surface. Corrosion is corrosion, cancer to metal, it must be removed. Just snake oil in my personal opinion.

Hank

[SteveTN]

i don't know anything about much of anything except maybe bird dogs. BUT...

I did use it about 10 years ago on my rims. I wanted them silver and I used the POR-15 silver paint. I don't remember all the details but I used their recommended products for prep through paint and have been very very pleased. The stuff has held up well even where the lugs mount (I have loose lug rims). No discoloration that I can see.

[D Stroud]

I have NO experience with POR paints, but I have sandblasted rims, to bare metal, inside and out, primed with spray can Rustoleum primer, let dry a couple of days, and then painted with Rustoleum spray can silver paint. That has lasted for MANY years, if something happens, a quick touch up with a brush is all that it takes. Works for me. JMHO Dave.

[A Whiteman]

Digressing a little, but I have had my new rims zinc plated (galvanised) "just like the originals" but maybe a thicker plating layer than Henry would have put on.
This is much more durable than silver paint and less likely to scratch. It also is rust resistant. Make sure your rims are sand blasted first if they are already 'used'.

[D Stroud]

Yep Adrian, yes, I'm very sure that Galvanizing (plating rims) is much more durable than painting them, but for me, painting them is much cheaper, and easy to touch up. They don't have to be touched up very often, if at all. As I said, they have been sandblasted to bare metal before they were painted. JMHO Dave

[Nunsio1]

I used POR 15 with very good results, but you need to follow the directions. Sand blasted frame,then prep with their cleaner and used their prep to etch the metal, brushed gray base coat,then brushed on their chassis black, both products flow out well. Did the same on engine and trans, the engine paint has more pigment & flows out well also. Don’t forget to put plastic between can lid & can, hold together with a C clamp.
John Monticciolo
Oscoda Michigan

[Marty Bufalini]

Thanks Anyone else care to share their experience?n