MTFCA Forum

I have a fronty head on my model t with a distributor on it. 12 volt system, I can install a new set of points in it and it will start and run ok. But when I try to restart I find the points are burnt what is wrong with this is there a set of points that are to be used only on 12 volts
Thanks for your help, Ron

More than likely you have a faulty condenser and or coil is out of balance with voltage. Use quality points, condenser, and coil. Check your coil, it might require a ballast resistor to stabilize the voltage. Hope this Helps.

Hank

Like Hank said , probably needs a ballast resistor

I agree with Hank...
Ignition coils either have internal resistance or need an external resistor.
Normally you should have around 6V at the points when running. 12V will cook them quickly.

That's awfully damn quick for points to burn up. I think all 3 things mentioned above might be in play: No resistor + condenser and coil aren't a set and they need to be.

Ron, the points are fine. You can refinish them so you can see yourself. Wait. Buy the best you can there too.
Condenser or ballast.
I sure am not happy with even the Bosch (Turkey-built) condensers lately.
Wishing for an orange-drop capacitor for a T and another piece of machinery here as it all goes to heck too soon.

I have found that always setting by dwell, 40 degrees, works best. Using NOS Mallory condensers on Tbay works Great. New Brazilian made Bosch coils for older air cooled VW's are durable, an older Dodge style ceramic ballast resistor a bonus. I never have a break down. I always take a paper business card and wipe the points clean with a little carb cleaner. Just make sure you have a good equal contact on those points too. Stand up the coil if you can on the firewall away from heat as these oil filled coils will act up any other way.

Hope this Helps,

Hank

Remember that back in the days before electronic ignitions, 12 volt systems had bypass and ballast resistor in their ignition systems. When the car was cranked, the bypass delivered 12 volts to the points. When the key was turned from "start" to "run", the current was routed through a ballast resistor that dropped the voltage down to about 9 volts. That's why points lasted as long as they did. Now what kind of system you want to design and install for yourself to solve the issue is up to you. But that's how they did it in the "Good Old Days". Be creative!

Make sure you have a ground wire running from the distributor to the block. I had the same issue and burned points until I added that wire. I guess it is because the shaft fit from distributor head to the base is so darn loose, especially on the Texas T Part set up.

If you would include the make/model of the distributor, coil too, perhaps others could give you a more specific response to the type of coil needed and condenser.

Glad someone brought up the condenser, that would have been my first thought. Maybe it's bad and the coil is fine. Have you tested it or replaced it?

Ok guys thank you all. I changed the condenser with another one and ran a ground wire to the distributor housing. And I am back on the road just remember that all new parts some time don’t work. Thanks to all Ron