MTFCA Forum

This is a low firewall, steel cowl runabout with a separate hood clasp. This was a carry-over from wood firewalls, where the hood rod clasp was NOT permanently attached to the steel firewall. The later low cowl steel firewalls had the clasp riveted to the firewall. This is the very first version...

1. I am seeking to find what HEAD was on the screws (2) used to secure the the clasp. I have the crusty remains of a clasp and a screw but the screw is too far gone to figure out the head. I suspect that it was a flat-head machine screw so as to not interfere with the hood laying down

2. Is the lacing split and on each side of the clasp, or is the clasp screwed down OVER the lacing?

Thank you

Scott:

I have a very late wood firewall on my 1923 Touring. It is a late February car. It is in my barn about half hour away so can't look at it but wondered if it would help. It is a restored car but I confess I never looked very close at the detail you are talking about. Might that car have the detail you seek?

John

Thank you for your reply, John

My car is a Feb car, too, but it is the steel version, so your wood firewall detail would not be much help. The only info I have is that the very first ones had the clasp affixed via machine screws and shortly therafter went to directly riveted on. Mine were screwed on but so rusty that the one screw that remains has no indication as to the type of head. I'm close to simply fastening it with flat-head screws and be done with it, though there is no chamfer and I suspect it was probably a pan-head...I'll just have to see what will clear the hood

Thanks again and nice hearing from you. Hope all is well.

Does this help, mine has a round head screw but it was redone.

Joe Reid

You have provided me with what I was looking for in words and pictures. Many many thanks to you! Since you have no clearance issues with it, I believe that I will do the same. My clasp did not have countersinks, but I was afraid that round head screws would not fit and was considering oval head screws. Lack of countersink pretty much rules out flat head or oval in that location as being correct, though. I am very appreciative of your taking the time to make your posts.
Let's wrap this thread up.

Scott, Glad I could help, also have a car titled as a 24 but with a low radiator so it is an early 23. It also has roundhead screws. Thank you for your help in the past. Joe Reid

Joe's photo raises questions for me. On wooden firewalls with the rain gutter fitted, the hood clip is riveted in place. This means the welting terminates either side of the clip, being held in place by the closest rivet. In Joe's photo the welting appears to continue on under the clip. This has the effect of raising the screw above the welting, by the thickness of the clip mounting and the height of the round head screw. I doubt this was intended. More likely the welting was terminated either side.

Others may have evidence to debunk this observation.
Allan from down under,

Scott - Glad you got this question resolved to your satisfaction. Frankly, I have four Model T's,....two '23's a '26 and a '27, and I considered looking at mine to respond to your question, however,....the two '23's and the '27 are about 7 miles away, and the and the '26 is up in the San Juan Islands about 100 miles away, and after giving this careful thought, I decided that because all four of my "T's are "driver grade" amateur restorations, I'd just be happy if one or more of my cars had two hood rod clasp mounting screws the same! Kinda wish I had a Model T that was original enough, or, professionally restored enough to be able to worry about such details!

Allan might be right about the welting, my other car looks like this but both hoods seem to fit ok, everything sags with age.

Interesting topic. I would use a slotted screw with a low profile so as not to interfere with the underside of the hood.

All of a sudden this thread has become less entertaining...