Rear hub evaluation

[ArthurB]

I just finished rebuilding my rear axle/ differential/ drive shaft. Everything is working great, so now I'd like to rebuild the rear wheels. They are functional but spokes are a bit loose, hubcap threads aren't great, and worse yet-- they are globbed up with metallic copper paint (spokes and all).

I have previously rebuilt my front wheels, so I have a wheel press and plenty of experience removing rust and repainting. In addition to the two wheels on the car I have two spare rear wheels for spare parts. My question: how should I choose which hubs to use in the rebuild? All the hubs and felloes have some obvious minor defects, but I'm wondering how I can decide which hubs will function best. I've heard about hubs getting "worn" but I'm not sure what to measure on a tapered hole and what numbers I should be looking for, or what other ways a hub can go bad. FYI I have just installed two new axles from Fun Projects so those should in good shape.

I'd hate to press new wood spokes into newly repainted parts and then discover I chose the wrong parts, so please help me know what to look out for as I select the components for this rebuild. FYI I will be replacing all spokes and bolts.

[Kevin Pharis]

If there is no excessive rust pitting and the keyways aren’t wallowed out... they are probably just fine. Also make sure the tapers lock onto a good axle taper without the key installed for your last check. And remember NOT to paint the inner taper of the hub, or the axle tapers. The paint will break down and render the hub loose shortly after install

[RGould1910]

I have encountered bent front hubs. George Garrigan who rewoods T wheels in Sonora CA routinely turns the flanges to true them up. Although the rear hubs are sturdier than the fronts, I'd check them for flange run out. A light trying cut wont hurt a thing.

[ArthurB]

Thanks for the advice, guys. Good ideas.

[Allan]

Good keyways are the first point in any inspection I make. If they are OK, I bolt likely candidates to the same axle, and select the ones which go on least. They should be less worn in the taper. Then they need careful scrutiny of the inner flange, looking for cracking around the hub centre. If you still have some left to work with, the hubcap threads need to be half decent. Damage to the outer end is common, often as a result of misplaced hammer blows when trying to remove wheels. A few of the outer threads can be machined off to clean them up, as long as there is ample thread left for the hubcap. A Stevens tool to clean up the threads is very handy.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.