scat crank shaft and rods
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Rich Huggins
Topic author - Posts: 107
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scat crank shaft and rods
hi need to know about oil dippers for scat rods
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Henry K. Lee
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
Rich,
Stock or stroker?
Hank
Stock or stroker?
Hank
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Kerry
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
If you need insert bearing dipper rods, Snyders sell them, maker, don't know but I have fitted a few sets and look a very nice rod but now no longer have STD bearings for them. As for Scat, I believe they recommend only to use oil pump with their rods and crank.
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Rich Huggins
Topic author - Posts: 107
- Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2019 7:56 am
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
I do believe a stroker ss scat rods
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Henry K. Lee
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
Rich,
A Stroker works best with a pressurized cross drilled crank. But if you have one that is not and using conventional Model A rods (with Babbitt), then fabricating your own is the best option. We did a couple years back and found that using an 11 gauge mild steel strap, drilling a 5/16' hole in the center of the strap. Then attaching by means of brazing, 3/8" steel fuel tubing at approx. 35 degrees scoops and holds well. On the inside of the rod you can either do a method such as "X-ing" like ones offered for Model T's or go similar as a Chevy design with full groove. Either one works well. Counter sinking the inlet and outlet of the rod cap slightly after drilling a 5/32" hole. Another point to address when using these stroker's large mass rods in a non oil pressure system is you need to trap more oil in the trough as an original Model T sump/inspection plate will be get dry real quick. You can fabricate a damming system with wings or find an old 1928 Chevy oil pan. They had a very nice oil trough in them that are removable.
Hope this Helps,
Hank
A Stroker works best with a pressurized cross drilled crank. But if you have one that is not and using conventional Model A rods (with Babbitt), then fabricating your own is the best option. We did a couple years back and found that using an 11 gauge mild steel strap, drilling a 5/16' hole in the center of the strap. Then attaching by means of brazing, 3/8" steel fuel tubing at approx. 35 degrees scoops and holds well. On the inside of the rod you can either do a method such as "X-ing" like ones offered for Model T's or go similar as a Chevy design with full groove. Either one works well. Counter sinking the inlet and outlet of the rod cap slightly after drilling a 5/32" hole. Another point to address when using these stroker's large mass rods in a non oil pressure system is you need to trap more oil in the trough as an original Model T sump/inspection plate will be get dry real quick. You can fabricate a damming system with wings or find an old 1928 Chevy oil pan. They had a very nice oil trough in them that are removable.
Hope this Helps,
Hank
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Rich Huggins
Topic author - Posts: 107
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
Have plain no oiling system dippers #1 damage due to hitting oil line that came loose and wound aroung flywheel breaking off a 3/4 in peace banging around till it got stuck in clutch been removing flywheel for 3 days now stainless allen cap bolts lock tighted in
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Rich Huggins
Topic author - Posts: 107
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
Finely got the flywheel off the crank hit internal oil line not enough clearance! damage mag spools and 2 magnets and the oil dippers it ended up in clutch plate photo 1 oil dipper broken off and internal oil tube broken off photo 2 rod cap missing dipper tube photo 3 rod cap with dipper these are tubes cut and thread into rod cap need like model t but deeper scoop may have to make need a oil scoop any one have one heard model a is bigger
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Allan
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
Rich, the oriblem may go right back to the internal oil line, if it was a repro from the vendors. The large scoop end on the repros is poorly fixed to the tube. Before I fit a new tube I re-bronze the fitting at the junction.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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26modeltt
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
Experienced clearance issues with the factory internal oil line between the block and counter balanced stroker rod cap on Model TT. Purchased stainless steel tubing and bent the tubing (see attached photo) to rise higher in the block to clear the rotating arc of the connecting rod cap. Also, I extended the length of the tubing where it exits the block towards the camshaft gear. With a tapered punch I mushroomed/expanded the I.D. of the tubing to further secure the oil line in the block.
- Attachments
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John bevardos
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
Rich ,
are you running splash with insert rods? Besides this issue, how are they working out ?
John
are you running splash with insert rods? Besides this issue, how are they working out ?
John
Who's still makes these gaskets, I might be in the market for a solid copper one myself.
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26modeltt
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
John,
For what it's worth and Rich you can chime in as well --- running forged aluminum rods with one piece integral dippers rod caps and insert bearings (non pressurized). Accumulated over 8500 miles.
Jack
For what it's worth and Rich you can chime in as well --- running forged aluminum rods with one piece integral dippers rod caps and insert bearings (non pressurized). Accumulated over 8500 miles.
Jack
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Rich Huggins
Topic author - Posts: 107
- Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2019 7:56 am
- First Name: Rich
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- Location: Maricopa AZ
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
John that oil tube is nice might do that .Hank the oil dam in the pan is good what height! I ordered a oil tube from Langs nice people great to work with the dippers worked fine, if the chev dippers don't work out i will fix them not much were on bearings and main concerning the the fine aluminum chips from the mag thimbles and a few large peaces from the oil tube will plaste gauge rods and mains will have to used the copper head gasket again third time is the charm its good next time will change bearings spent to much money other things engine sounded fine i think it will be fine
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Rich Huggins
Topic author - Posts: 107
- Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2019 7:56 am
- First Name: Rich
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- Location: Maricopa AZ
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- Contact:
Re: scat crank shaft and rods
Hank posted installing a dam in the oil pan that sounds good how high would it need to be and what are wings
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Henry K. Lee
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Re: scat crank shaft and rods
Sorry been busy with young men in the shop!
The dams should be to a height on each side of the rod throw per cylinder to the bottom of crankshaft rod surface area plus 3/16". Ensure they continue at the proper radius but not to obstruct the return flow pattern in the horseshoes. You can make them removable from the inspection plate,( ie, attaches to the sides of the oil pan) for easier removal and access. Takes a bit of work but worth it. I am trying to find the photos, please be patience as I have a lot of irons hot.
Hank
The dams should be to a height on each side of the rod throw per cylinder to the bottom of crankshaft rod surface area plus 3/16". Ensure they continue at the proper radius but not to obstruct the return flow pattern in the horseshoes. You can make them removable from the inspection plate,( ie, attaches to the sides of the oil pan) for easier removal and access. Takes a bit of work but worth it. I am trying to find the photos, please be patience as I have a lot of irons hot.
Hank