MTFCA Forum

I am not getting increased speed when shifting from low to high gear. Seems the clutch is slipping.
Assuming the 3 clutch finger screws are identical in length, I believe the protrusion of each screw from the finger is to be the same. A sketch is attached of what I discovered before I prepared to adjust the clutch disc pressure. The sketch shows the situation inherited from the previous owner. I thought to check with you guys before I start turning the screws.

Sketch

Simplest procedure is to make a go/no-go gauge from sheet metal that is 13/16" across and begin with that measurement near all three finger positions between the back of the throw-out collar to the driven plate - adjust each adjustment screw to provide equal distance & the clutch spring is compressed to 2" +/- a smidge. Test drive and if the clutch is still slipping, re-adjust each finger 1/2 turn at a time, re-insert cotter pin & try again.

P.I.B. but that's the initial clutch setting THEN you have to do the other two adjustments as outlined in the "Bible".

I would set it to 13/16 and if that does not work give the screws a little more, could of been weak spring or the modern clutch has lost some facing.

If you can not figure it out would be glad to help you out, I am only a couple hours away. Joe

I agree with the above. When you are in high gear the fingers should not be pressing on the spring. The spring should be tight against the disks. A few things could be giving you a problem. One is the adjustment for free neutral. and the adjustment of the cam screw on the clutch lever. Another thing which is very likely to be causing the problem would be the position of the parking brake lever when all the way forward. If something is keeping it from going all the way forward you will have a problem with high gear. The slot in the floor board should allow it to go all the way forward. Another thing would be if the brake rods are adjusted too long. They should be adjusted so that when you push the brake handle all the way forward and the rod is pushed all the way back, you can put the clevis pin right in without bending the rod. After you make this adljustment drive the car at a slow speed and pull on the parking brake. If it pulls to one side, tighten the opposite side by one half turn and try again. Do this by half turn adjustments till the car stops straight with the parking brake.
Now when you shift from low to high using the pedal, push up on the gas to slow the engine as it goes into high and when it starts to pull in high advance the throttle to pick up speed. If you leave the throttle advanced while you make the shift, your clutch is much more likely to slip and wear out the disks.
Norm

As Norm said and also a way to to see what kind of clutch adjustment you have is to place the car on a level floor and place the hand brake in a straight up position.
You should be able move the car fairly easy by either pushing it or pulling it by the spare tire carrier from behind. Or see if you pull up on the hand crank ( key off! ) and the car won’t move.
If the car doesn’t move you have a good free neutral. If not something in the linkage is out of the adjustment or somewhere else.

Thanks Joe - you're a lot closer than I am !

An easy way to make a tool for setting the 13/16" gap is to weld a handle made of thin rod to the side of a standard 13/16" wheel nut from any modern car. Here in Australia, most Fords run that size on 1/2" studs.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Just something to check. Quick story- a couple of years ago I had a prospective buyer come to my shop to drive one of my T's. He drove the car and followed me to a country lunch stop 15 miles away. No problems. When we left the lunch stop, I looked in my rear view mirror about a half mile into the trip and he wasn't there, so I turned around. He was driving in low gear. Simple fix- He leaned forward, pushed the hand brake lever for 2 more clicks. That's not much but enough to have a slight disengagement clutch plates. We made it home and he bought the car.

When I adjusted my clutch fingers I just turned them out until there was just some slack and pinned them there, what could be simpler?

Seeing all the differences in how far the screws are, you really need to start with a good base line and go from there. Sure it may take a few tries to get a good clutch, but you will end up with an evenly adjust set of fingers and even pressure on the clutch ring. Because of the single slot, they will not be exactly 13/16 to start but close.