Just Got My First T, Need Some Advice

[Its_Always_T_Time]

So I’m going to look for the leak in a few minutes. I’ll run the engine and see where it’s coming from.

Someone pointed out my driveshaft was flipped and I was missing my u-joint grease cup. I took some pictures of the u-joint and I’ll post them here to see what you guys think about it. Maybe I just remove a bolt and replace it with the proper grease cup?

[Its_Always_T_Time]

Posted two of the same pictures, sorry about that. Going to post another one after I resize it.

[John Codman]

Model Ts don't leak - they mark their territory.

[SurfCityGene]

Brenden, If you get some Ultra Black by Permatex at your local parts house and apply it to clean grease free surfaces you find a million uses for it.... One use it stopping oil and coolant leaks on a Model T!

[Its_Always_T_Time]

There was oil pouring out of the car. I found the leak, a screw fell out of the Bendix gear housing (I think that’s what it’s called?). I tightened all screws and it doesn’t leak oil anymore.

Anyways, I’m guessing I should order a U-joint grease cup and install that. I’m just not sure where to put it, looks like a bolt is where it’s supposed to be.

[Its_Always_T_Time]

Bought some Permatex Ultra Black!

[SurfCityGene]

Brendan, Get yourself some Ultra Black by Permatex at the local parts store. You'll find a million uses for it on a Model T and just one is stopping oil and water leaks. It's also the best gasket sealer. Clean the surface really good with a solvent first.

[John kuehn]

Could be talking about the corners of the transmission cover where it meets the engine block. The corners are notorious for leaking in that area after a few years. A good dab of sealant in those corners usually cures it.

[J1MGOLDEN]

One question I have never found an answer to in my 40 years of recent Model T ownership is, "why did Henry Ford change from a Negative Model T Ground to an Positive Model A Ground?"

Then too, what difference does it or could it possibly make?

[Its_Always_T_Time]

Looks like there’s just a bolt where my U-joint grease cup is supposed to be...why would the previous owner do that? Oh well, I ordered a grease cup for it. Hope it threads in and the threads aren’t stripped from the bolt.

Don’t know why Ford switched to positive ground with the A.

[Oldav8tor]

I was the one who mentioned your driveshaft was flipped. The angle might result in a clearance issue on the driveshaft coupler that prevents a big grease cup from being installed. You can't just flip the coupler 180° because it has to align with a hole in the ball around the universal. Until you get it flipped back, you do need to find a way to fill the ball with grease, even if it means removing the bolt temporarily and squirting grease in the hole. You might be able to thread a zerk into the hole if the cup won't clear. Good luck!

[2nighthawks]

James Golden - I believe the Ford engineers had some somewhat scientific reason for the belief that there would be less battery terminal corrosion, but I can't remember what the "theory" was behind that thinking.

[Its_Always_T_Time]

I’ll pack the bolt hole with grease then screw the bolt in a bit, rinse repeat in the meantime. I’ll screw in ~10 bolts worth of grease or so.

[Its_Always_T_Time]

So those darned screws loosened themselves from the bendix gear cover (?). Found them on the street and replaced them. Had to give her a few cranks and she fired right up. Who needs a starter motor?

[D Stroud]

Brendan, those screws have an odd thread. If you lose another one, don't just try to screw in another screw that is "close". They are available, but not from the big box stores, only from the T parts vendors. Be sure to use lock washers on them so you don't have the same problem down the road. Dave

[Oldav8tor]

Dave is correct - often the only recourse is to buy fasteners from a vendor. If you plan to stick with bolts securing the wishbone ball to the pan you might want to drill the heads (if there is enough meat) and safety wire. Alternatively, Aircraft AN bolts are fine thread and may be ordered plain, drilled shank or drilled head. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... key=114583

When you grease the universal thru the bolt in the drive shaft coupler you want to pack it in there....ideally until you see some grease squeezing out around the edge. A few squirts won't do it. Not the smartest design but that's what we have to work with.

[Norman Kling]

When you tighten, be VERY sure not to put too much force on the last bolt on the block or the bolt on the crankcase nearest the front of the hogs head! It is very easy to crack the cast iron parts at those locations. In fact I would say if the bolt is snug just do as was posted above and clean out that "crack" good with lacquer thinner and then smear on some black RTV in that area trying to force some into the crack. That will usually seal most leaks in that area.
Norm

[Norman Kling]

I'm sorry! Your thread got so long that it is now on two pages! My last comment was in regard to the last post on the first page.
Norm

[Its_Always_T_Time]

It’s ok Norm, I didn’t tighten the bolts securing the hogshead to the car as I found the leak. It was the screws securing the Bendix gear cover that fell out that were the source of my leak.

What size lock washers would I need for those screws? Would a T parts supplier have them?

Those aircraft bolts are the same as the ones securing the wishbone? I just buy a pair of ones with a drilled head and safety wire the heads to keep them from backing out while driving? Is there anything in the Ford bible about safety wiring the wishbone bolts? I just make a figure 8 between the two bolts with the safety wire?

[Oldav8tor]

The wishbone cap is usually held on by studs that are threaded on both ends and castle nuts. The exposed end of the stud is drilled. Safety wire is used because just sticking a cotter pin in won't prevent the stud from backing out. The alternative for you would be to drill the heads of the bolts you've got and safety wire them. If the bolts are fine thread then an AN bolt might work as a replacement as they are also fine thread. AN bolts are available in a lot more lengths than typical hardware bolts.

Safety wiring is best done with a tool designed for the purpose. Lacking that, you could use a pair of flat jaw pliers to put in the twist. You want to pull in the direction that would tighten the bolt. In your situation I would safety wire one bolt head (or stud and nut) to the other. I've attached a drawing. You want the wire snug enough between the bolts that if they start to back off the wire will tighten and prevent it. Unless you've done a lot of safety wiring don't expect the results to be pretty like the drawing. Your concern should be whether your wiring job will keep the bolt / stud from backing off.

If you don't want to go out an buy a roll of safety wire, email me your address and I'll send you a few feet of aircraft 0.041 stainless steel safety wire.

safety.jpeg (7.49 KiB) Viewed 4549 times

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

It’s ok Norm, I didn’t tighten the bolts securing the hogshead to the car as I found the leak. It was the screws securing the Bendix gear cover that fell out that were the source of my leak.

What size lock washers would I need for those screws? Would a T parts supplier have them?

Those aircraft bolts are the same as the ones securing the wishbone? I just buy a pair of ones with a drilled head and safety wire the heads to keep them from backing out while driving? Is there anything in the Ford bible about safety wiring the wishbone bolts? I just make a figure 8 between the two bolts with the safety wire?

While you're wiring the wishbone cap bolts you can also put a cotter pin in the wishbone cap itself. The cap you have is an accessory one. The center piece, with the slot in the end, threads into the cap and compresses a spring that keeps constant pressure on the ball joint to prevent play. Once the adjustment is made, that center piece slot is aligned with the holes in the cap housing & locked in place by putting a cotter pin through the side of the cap housing and through the slot.

[Its_Always_T_Time]

I installed a gas shut off at the carburetor with a felt seal in the pack nut, the gas no longer leaks out on the floor drip by drip! I installed some lock washers on the bendix cover (I think that's what it is, it's magnetized which is weird) and now they don't back out anymore. I also packed some grease into the U-joint with my pinky in the meantime until the cup gets here. I'll put the cup on then pack a few cups worth of grease into the u-joint then take it off and replace it with the bolt that's there so it doesn't interfere with the handbrake lever while driving. I'll have to do that until I pull the driveshaft to replace the thrust washers then reinstall it the correct way, seems like with the cups facing down they are vulnerable to being damaged by debris on the road, and it's honestly a pretty silly way of "making less work for yourself", instead of removing the floorboards which takes literally 60 seconds, you have to climb under the car and get yourself all dirty just to turn the cups. Just seems kind of silly, I definitely prefer the way Ford did it.

She's running pretty good, though when in low it feels like it grabs inconsistently the more I push down on the pedal, probably need to tighten it up a bit more, or maybe the clutch is out of adjustment, not really sure. Also when in high gear it seems like she likes to leap and jump forward a bit while driving around.

Waiting on some ultra black gasket sealer so I can install the oil screen and change the oil. Took her for a nice little put today to a local restaurant with my dad, had a great time, talked to some people who stopped to admire her before I cranked her up and went back home.

I appreciate your offer Oldav8tor, but I already ordered some stainless safety wire and it’s too late to cancel the order as it’s already been shipped. Thank you anyways though!

[Norman Kling]

The grease cup should be at the top of the u joint! Someone has turned the cover upside down to make the grease cup more accessable, but if it interferes with the brake shaft, it is in the wrong place. Usually a person with a good wrist can reach the cup from underneath, but it is very easy to reach if you take out the floorboards.
Norm