cotter pin installation?

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pdgriesse
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:59 am
First Name: Paul
Last Name: Griesse
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 touring 1924 touring
Location: Granville Ohio
MTFCI Number: 19738

cotter pin installation?

Post by pdgriesse » Sat Aug 08, 2020 11:08 am

I shimmed-up the hand- crank bracket located on top of the Ft. spring/frame on my `29 model A. The two 1/2 " X 20 hold down U-bolts are now too short for the cotter pin holes to secure the nuts, when tight. Guess i could grind down each of the 4 nuts but I`m concerned about losing the integrity for a secure "fit". Also thought of drilling new holes about a quarter inch lower but that would seriously weaken the hold down bolts. --The nuts are on tight but no cotter pins to keep them that way....I`d appreciate any suggestions for a better "fix"----Thanks, Paul

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GrandpaFord
Posts: 146
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:46 pm
First Name: Neil
Last Name: Kaminar
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Touring
Location: Mebane, North Carolina
MTFCI Number: 22425

Re: cotter pin installation?

Post by GrandpaFord » Sat Aug 08, 2020 11:18 am

It is perfectly acceptable to use lock washers. The lock washers are allowed in Model T touring safety inspections. I don't know about Model A's but suspect they would be allowed there too. Use the split type lock washers not the star type.


John Codman
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* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Youring
Location: Naples, FL 34120

Re: cotter pin installation?

Post by John Codman » Sat Aug 08, 2020 11:27 am

Drilling new holes will not weaken the bolts to any significant degree. The nut below the castellations does the holding, the castellations are there solely to give the cotter pin something to lock against.

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Mark Gregush
Posts: 4957
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
First Name: Mark
Last Name: Gregush
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
Location: Portland Or
MTFCA Number: 52564
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: cotter pin installation?

Post by Mark Gregush » Sat Aug 08, 2020 11:30 am

Why did you shim up the bracket? Does the hand crank line up? Or are you moving it up because the hand crank does not line up? Moving it up, you may run into interference with the bottom of the radiator. If you raise the radiator up, then you put the hood out of alignment etc. Could it be that the frame is sagging and you are trying to compensate because the engine is sitting at a higher angle at the front?
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas! :shock:

1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup

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Topic author
pdgriesse
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:59 am
First Name: Paul
Last Name: Griesse
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 touring 1924 touring
Location: Granville Ohio
MTFCI Number: 19738

Re: cotter pin installation?

Post by pdgriesse » Sat Aug 08, 2020 8:52 pm

Thanks for the input, guys----I think I`ll go with the lockwashers and no cotter pins.. Good observation, Mark--Longstanding problem with the hand crank alignment---the 1/4 inch shim brings it into alignment. The rad " shell" seems to have enough "wiggle room" to keep the crank aligned. This car suffered a LF wheel collision years ago so there probably is a "sag" in the crank holder location. We realigned the FT axle and parts and its been perfect for thousands of miles. Easiest "fix" was to shim up the crankholder and keep the rad and shell in existing location. Thanks to all for your comments! paul


kmatt2
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* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 26 T Coupe, 16 T Open Express, 21 TT Flatbed. 15 T Roadster, 13 & 25 T Speedster , 51 Mercury 4 door sport sedan, 67 Mercury Cougar
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Re: cotter pin installation?

Post by kmatt2 » Sat Aug 08, 2020 9:50 pm

Have you tried to hand crank your Model A now, and does the hand crank engage the special crank pulley nut OK plus fit in the shell ? The split lock washers will not show so much unlike on a pre 1924 T and be fine.
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