MTFCA Forum

I finally got my cab painted and decided to take my 1st trip to town, 5 miles each way. I had a fully charged phone, bucket of tools and half a jug of 50/50 antifreeze. When I stopped at a friends, I noticed that engine was gurgling when I turned it off, is this normal or a problem? I tightened up the leather fan belt and it is almost maxed out, how tight should it be? I had the timing pretty much fully advanced and I had the carb adjusted for clean running.

Here is the link to the video. https://imgur.com/Q3KpTxT

On a side note, I had a couple follow me down the road until I stopped to get gas and they asked a ton of questions and took pictures of the truck.

IMO, a little gurgling after running on a hot day is not a cause for concern. A lot of folks new to T's tend to overfill the radiator, resulting in some spillage out the overflow tube. Check the coolant level occasionally when cold, it should cover the tops of the tubes but not be up to the bottom of the filler neck. It will eventually find its own level and settle down.

The fan belt should not be as tight as folks are used to with "modern" ('60s-'70s) car V-belts. Back in the day, Murray Fahnestock said to rest one finger on the end of a fan blade (with the engine off, of course!). The resistance from the fan belt tension should be just enough for the fan blade to support the weight of your one finger, no tighter.

I set my fan belt just tight enough to spin the fan, even with a water pump. The tighter the fan belt the faster the bushing in the fan pulley wear out.

A moto meter would go a long way to giving you an idea of your coolant temp.

They're not prohibitively expensive new, and I'm sure a used one could be found for cheap.

Pretty snazzy too, if you ask me.

I'm no expert, but excessive gurgling (like coffee percolating) after a 5 mile open road run seems hot, but not necessarily too hot. If there's steam escaping it's definitely too hot. On the other hand, if you're gurgling like that after an open road run it seems like you might overheat in slower stop and go traffic.

I recently had my (round tube) radiator thoroughly gone through at a radiator shop, and REALLY blew out the crap from the block. First by pulling the head and really giving that a thorough flush in the utility sink (I could not believe how much crap was in there!) Then using compressed air in the water passages on the block. Then reinstalling the head and flushing the block with a hose until the crap stopped coming out and the water is clear. Finally, reinstalling the radiator.

The difference in temperature is truly remarkable. Previously, gurgling like you described (and occasional overheating) was routine for me. Now it never happens, not even in slow stop and go traffic on a 90 degree day.

Get a moto meter and keep an eye on it and you'll figure it out.

The fan really isn't doing anything when the vehicle is moving. I agree with those who suggest a Moto Meter; you are just guessing about the cooling system's operation without one. Assuming that the ignition timing and fuel mixture are correct, the most likely cause of overheating in a T is a worn-out radiator. The fins age and become thermally disconnected from the tubes. If that is the case. a new flat-tube radiator is the only real solution. My knowledge of the TT is limited, but I believe that the TT has a lower rear axle ratio then the passenger car, so the condition of the cooling system is critical due to the higher engine RPM at any speed.

Is the radiator an original or a flatbed replacement or? If it’s an original that’s probably part or all of your problem. But as others have said it could also be overfilled, timing etc.

In my experience I’ve found that if you deal with heating problems it usually turns out to be an old radiator. I was amazed how a new radiator can change the way you think of your T. I finally replaced the old repaired original on my 24 Coupe and it made a big noticeable difference.

John, reference the picture. He doesn’t have a flatbed. He has a “nobed”

Corvette Guy, I have a brand new repop Moto Meter that I purchased to install on my 24’ C cab. Decided not to use it...Smooth Chrome Jr Meter w/ Ford logo & small wings. $ 80.00 includes postage in 48 states of USA
John Monticciolo
Oscoda, Michigan

A bit of gurgling on a hot day is normal. Before you start out again, check the coolant level in the radiator. It should be about level with the Ford emblem when the radiator is cool. If it is hot, it could be higher, but you should be able to see coolant in the top tank. Be sure it is coolant you are seeing and not just a hot baffle in the radiator. If you jiggle the vehicle while you look in the radiator, you should see the coolant move. If there is steam pouring out the overflow tube when you turn off the engine, it is definately too hot.
Norm

There's a bed there, you just can't see it in the first pict.

On the moto meter and such, I'm going to drive it a few more times and see how it does. I'll take along my non contact thermometer, how much of a drop should I see from the top to bottom or the radiator?

I stopped in the local radiator shop and found that they could recore what I had for $500-$600. He said a recore was way better than a cheap new China unit.

Corvette Guy - What your "local" radiator guy doesn't realize is that two companies manufacture excellent replacement Model T radiators, and they're BOTH in the good ol' U.S.A.!

What are the two American brands?

One is Brassworks and the other is Berg. According to what I've read on the forum, it's kind of a "toss-up" which to go with, but for what it's worth, I think Brassworks is the older company, but I think both build an excellent product,.....harold

Check it top and bottom on radiator with your touchless thermometer. Should be quite a difference if your radiator is working. Make sure your timing is not retarded too much and that you are not too lean on carb adjustment. I dont remember the temp of my radiator when I checked it but I can check it and let you know the numbers. Your engine is clean so "if" its running hot its timing, lean, or the radiator.

Hey George!
I meant to say flat tube when I was referring to my comment about radiators. And yes he has a flat bed! And the flat tube radiator I bought was a Bergs. Great radiator and works just fine. No boil over. If there is a good older radiator shop in your area they can put in a flat tube core if your tanks are still good on your radiator for 5-600.00. But that’s if they work on the older stuff. Some don’t and won’t if it’s an old one. The China radiators you might see and probably the local radiator guy is thinking about are for bucket T hot rods. You see those advertised on EBay.
And yes the 2 American brands are Bergs and Rootlieb. Definitely not China made.

Scott,

I believe you pretty well have your answer but I thought I would mention a rather easy
way to check radiator and carb setting in your driveway with a kitchen thermometer.
I use that same thermometer to check my 160 degree thermostats for my '35 Ford cabriolet.
The V8 stats open at 160 so the gauge is close.

I just set up the car in the driveway with the carb side hood of the Model T open and let it run.
Radiator cap off and just leave the gauge in place.

Here is a chart of the T temperatures I ran in 2015 with ambient @ 70 degrees, 0-1 mph breeze, 50/50 antifreeze.

This car doesn't boil on tour.

It will blow a little using Low Pedal on the "Twisted Sisters" grades near Bandera, Texas.
A couple of those grades are 1/2-mile of LP
The '14 has a Kingston 4-ball, stock transmission and rear end.