MTFCA Forum

Been noticing in the pass few years the new copper head gaskets with non asbestos filler have been failing at a very large rate. Blow out of heat resistant material happens normally right at the fire ring support. This is happening to even non Ford cars, ie, Chevy, Dodge, etc. I use a spray copper shellac but it is not really helping that much. Have noticed going back multiple times after the engine has cooled and re-torquing the head bolts does. Can not believe how much torque it takes to re-torque sometimes. The filler heat resistant material appears to deteriorate after heat cycles. Just thought you all should be made aware of this.

All the Best,

Hank

Never had a problem with them myself, but then I re-torque the cast iron heads when hot and aluminium when cold like one is supposed too.

" Can not believe how much torque it takes to re-torque sometimes" Pls elaborate-- assuming less torque needed than what was applied previously? How much less, a few % lower, half as much, etc?

And should this be done hot or cold? Thanks, jb

Adam Doleshal uses this gasket and says it's superior, so I'm going to give it a try. It also costs a little less than copper.

When I was regularly building engines (until a couple years ago) or doing engine servicing, I would use copper coat on the copper head gaskets and go through a minimum of 3 to 4 heat & cooling cycles - re-torquing usually the next morning COLD - 30 + years and yet to have a reported failure.

What I’ve always heard and done is to install the head torque it run it to operating temperature then let it cool overnight and retorque. Period. Retorquing when hot will allow the metal to shrink when cold leading to guess what.

I have not had a failure, however, I check the flatness of both head and block before I install a new gasket, and I also check the bolt lengths so they do not bottom out before the head is completely tightened. I warm up the engine for a few minutes without driving the car. Then re-torque the bolts hot with cast iron or cold with aluminum. Then I drive a short distance and re-torque again. For the first few times I run the engine I check torque again until it holds torque of 50 ft lbs. Then I do not re-torque anymore and seems to be fine.
Norm

Just had that happen to my 24 . I had the engine completely gone thru around three months ago.
This past weekend, at the upper front corner, it blew out

Did you re-torque after several heat & cooling cycles & were you informed to do that by your builder ???

New style gaskets like a Felpro have not failed just the new non asbestos copper ones.

Hank

Well Steve,

Are you going to enlighten us as to wear to purchase them?

Thanks

I stock them. Email me thru the forum contact.

Hi Adam, I just sent you an email, thanks.

Its not just the headgaskets! The copper clad manifold gaskets and the copper washers use what appear to be the same filler material. I had an intake leak I was unable to cure after six tries using one or the other. Finally resolved with period asbestos copper clad gaskets.

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 11, 2020 11:09 am

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Adam Doleshal uses this gasket and says it's superior, so I'm going to give it a try. It also costs a little less than copper.

Steve, where can you get these? I look at a couple vendor sites and it isn't listed. Also searched on the name and part number and came up empty.

I have not had the gasket "blow out" but have had head gasket leaks. Mine were do to using the old head bolts after a rebuild or head shaving. I found that the old head bolts will bottom out and one thinks they are torquing the head but the are just over tightening the bolt. I know most of you are smarter than me and have not had that experience to learn by.

Dick no one is immune from simple mistakes, we are all human!

Hank