1911 steering column
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Topic author - Posts: 49
- Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:55 am
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Barlow
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1921 touring, 1911 under construction
- Location: Murrieta California
1911 steering column
i bought a 1911 steering column but the steering shaft is completley rusted inside of the steering bracket and it will not come out. i have soaked it and tried pressing it out with a 20 ton press but all it did was pushe nut up the threads,
my question is, is anybody repoping just the shaft for the 1911 steering column? i see the later years but not 1911
my question is, is anybody repoping just the shaft for the 1911 steering column? i see the later years but not 1911
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- Posts: 1459
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:35 pm
- First Name: Darel
- Last Name: Leipold
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 touring
- Location: Excelsior MN
- MTFCA Number: 823
- MTFCI Number: 953
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: 1911 steering column
I have appliedheat with good results.
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- Posts: 364
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:29 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Rosenthal
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 12 Towncar, 12 Touring, 09 Touring
- Location: Cincinnati OH
Re: 1911 steering column
Hello Mark:
As noted, torch heating the bracket is a solution that I have used. Ice down the shaft and heat the bracket for maximum effect, then drive the shaft out with the pitman arm initially in place to protect the threads. Good news is that the shaft diameter that was protected by the bronze bushings, will remain a good clean diameter. Space between the bushings can have corrosion, and this can require that the upper bushing to be driven out with the shaft.
Early 4:1 shafts are 3 1/2" shorter than the latter, so any 4:1 shaft can be easily retrofitted if need be, by cutting and re-welding. This cut wants to happen 12 inches from the top, where it will remain concealed by the steering column. After cutting the shaft halves to size, install a 5/16 all thread stud between the parts to maintain concentricity during your weld, and to act as a safety in the unlikely event that the weld should fail. Grind the welded diameter to the shaft size, and you're good to go.
Regards,
Scott
As noted, torch heating the bracket is a solution that I have used. Ice down the shaft and heat the bracket for maximum effect, then drive the shaft out with the pitman arm initially in place to protect the threads. Good news is that the shaft diameter that was protected by the bronze bushings, will remain a good clean diameter. Space between the bushings can have corrosion, and this can require that the upper bushing to be driven out with the shaft.
Early 4:1 shafts are 3 1/2" shorter than the latter, so any 4:1 shaft can be easily retrofitted if need be, by cutting and re-welding. This cut wants to happen 12 inches from the top, where it will remain concealed by the steering column. After cutting the shaft halves to size, install a 5/16 all thread stud between the parts to maintain concentricity during your weld, and to act as a safety in the unlikely event that the weld should fail. Grind the welded diameter to the shaft size, and you're good to go.
Regards,
Scott
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Topic author - Posts: 49
- Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:55 am
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Barlow
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1921 touring, 1911 under construction
- Location: Murrieta California
Re: 1911 steering column
the existing shaft is not in very good shape as its very rusty, i will most likely buy a replacement and shorten it. thanks for the input
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- Posts: 5201
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: 1911 steering column
I would have more confidence in having a new shaft shortened by cutting off the end and having a new taper, thread and keyway cut. Cutting, shutting, and welding steering components is largely verboten by the authorities certifying street machines in this state. I know a model T will not be asked to do the same work as a rod, but it does need to be safe.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:16 pm
- First Name: Kim
- Last Name: Dobbins
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 touring, 1910 touring, 1913 touring, 1916 couplet, 1924 truck.
- Location: Southern California
- MTFCA Number: 8243
Re: 1911 steering column
Mark, I also would recommend getting a good later shaft, cutting a new taper and key way. I've done it with good results.
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- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 11:15 am
- First Name: Tony
- Last Name: Bowker
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 touring
- Location: La Mesa, CA
- MTFCA Number: 32
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: 1911 steering column
When I made the shorter steering shaft for the 09, I used a later column and recut the taper, thread and keyway. I would not recommend welding. JMHO
Tony Bowker
La Mesa, California
1914 Touring, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Coupe.
La Mesa, California
1914 Touring, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Coupe.
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- Posts: 1198
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:58 am
- First Name: Mario
- Last Name: Brossard
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Touring and 1914 speedster
- Location: Quebec City Canada
- MTFCA Number: 30981
- MTFCI Number: 30981
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: 1911 steering column
I did the same than Tony with my 1911 , I would be scared using a welding one... Arton Senna one of the best formula 1 driver in the history lost is live with a welding column... Sometimes is good learning with other experiences.
Super Mario Bross
1911 Touring
1914 Speedster
1911 Touring
1914 Speedster
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Topic author - Posts: 49
- Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:55 am
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Barlow
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1921 touring, 1911 under construction
- Location: Murrieta California
Re: 1911 steering column
Dont the early steering column shafts have a different steering ratio so the pins are in a different location or are the gears just a differnt size for the later columns?
how did you go about cutting in the key way?
how did you go about cutting in the key way?