MTFCA Forum

Has anyone had experience towing a T on a U Haul open trailer? Comments welcome!
Thanks
John Monticciolo
Oscoda Michigan

I haven't had any experience with an open U-Haul, but I have had with a private open trailer.
No problems, just load it so you have a good tongue weight, usually 10% of your load.
Of course, strap it down good! I'm assuming you're talking
about a U-haul that all "fours" are on the trailer?
Because of course they do have those dinky things where only one axle is off the ground, and that would
be a total no-no in my estimation.
You should at least fold down the windshield if it's an open car. Some guys even cover the windshield completely with
cardboard, taped securely of course, to protect from potential stone chip breakage. And by all means, pull out the floor boards, otherwise nature will do it for you. Disconnect the battery is another good idea. Shut off fuel valve(s). PULL THE COIL BOX KEY!
You may even want to remove the seat bottoms and put them in your tow vehicle.

Can't think of anything else in particular. Other than usual safety checks of the trailer.
Good luck.

I have not because I have a trailer for the T.
What I understand is that the wheel tie down does not work for T wheels and comes off.
Use straps on front and rear axles. Also have one strap from the rear axle to the front of the trailer.

Contact Steve Jelf, he's done it.

I towed my speedster on a U haul open trailer for 300 miles, it did very well, the trailer pulled nicely.

Tim

I have had no problems with leaving the floorboards in place. I just put something heavy on the front floor. Like a gallon of water, or a suitcase or other item. I have not lost a seat cushion either.
always fold down the top on an open car and use a boot on it. I have even towed in the rain with the top down and when I got home, I just turned the seat cushions up so they could dry in the garage. I took off the boot planning to put the top up to dry and was surprised that the top was still dry. This was after towing about 200 miles in the rain!
I agree with all the other instructions above.

I have hauled my 23 Roadster using a UHAUL flat trailer. Towed like a dream. I like the built in tire takedown baskets and self contained ramps. I used one to bring home a "modern" car once. They have drop down fenders for ease of entry and exit out of the doors on a modern vehicle.

We towed a 1920 Center door sedan on a YouHaul trailer. Pulled very nicely with no problems. You most likely will have to work on the "tie-downs" as the ones on the trailer are for standard modern tires and not T tires. We have since purchased a trailer to haul our Ts. We are planning on finding a longer one so the Ts do not have over the back end so much. Ours is a 12' bed, which works well but the TT is just short of the maximum legal rear overhang. We're looking for a 16' for less overhang and more flexibility in positioning the T on the trailer for the best tongue weight.

Good Luck,
Terry

I also use the flat bungie cords Like Kim does in the above post. I get them at Menards. The orange is the perfect length to make an X on your hood.
They have the plastic hooks and being flat they are less likely to make a mark on your hood. You do not want to lose your hood on the highway.

My tool boxes hold down the floor boards. Straps/cords hold down hood. Never had a seat vision come loose. I retired from a nuclear generating facility where I learned about redundancy of safety systems. Defense in depth! There is one thing that man cannot take away from you, your education.

In 2001, using my 1/2 ton Ford F-150 truck, I towed my 1926 coupe on an open U-Haul trailer 1,200 miles from York, Maine to Central Florida with no problems. It pulled so smoothly and effortlessly, I almost forgot that the trailer was even back there. The trailer is very sturdy and I was able to drive full speed (70 to 75 mph) on the expressway, safely keeping up with the traffic. Since the coupe has a trunk, I was able to store the floorboards and hood in the trunk. Don’t leave the key in the ignition. I winched the car onto the trailer facing frontwards and set the emergency brake and, using the wheel webbing straps that came with the trailer, secured the wheels to the trailer floor. I also secured the axles to the floor as well, for good measure. Not too tight. You can bend the axles, if you pull down too tight. To protect from stones, road debris and rain, I bought a roll of 6 mil 20’x 100’ visqueen (sheet plastic) and three rolls of duct tape and wrapped the car in visqueen and taped the visqueen in place with two of the rolls of duct tape. I kept the third roll for making repairs to the visqueen, but it wasn’t needed. Jim Patrick

I hauled my 14 570 miles. Removed seat cushions, floorboards, hood and anything that might shake off. Original owner insisted on driving.

I used a u-hual trailer when I bought my T.

It worked great.

Thanks everyone for all information . Will be renting a U Haul open car hauler.
John

I have done it and it worked well. Like everyone says the though, the front wheel "net" straps do not hold well and need to be re tightened periodically. Instead of relying on them I recommend strapping the front and rear axles with come along tie downs.

Yes, I have done it. I agree, don't depend on the wheel straps. They wouldn't stay on. I had no other problems.





I have since learned that straps should not pull forward on the front axle. Fortunately I didn't learn that the hard way.



They simply would not stay on.

Steve

you're not only replying on a computer, but you're replying TO a computer (that dredged up a 3 year old post)

I would agree with Jelf.
Noticed the yellow straps.
Strap it down like it is on a utility trailer. Cross strap it at the wheels and axle strap back to front.

This is a regurgitated 3 year old post restarted by a BOT

why keep giving advice????

How about hook to front axle each side and bring straps back and hook them a foot in front of rear wheel. Do the same for the rear bringing straps a foot back from the front tire. You just created an x pattern...car cant move front nor back. You should tow with 5 points. Put straps center front and secure. Done.

When tow with flatbed as I go long distant..
1 wench
4 tire straps
2 chains in rear x'ed
The truck team won't bother you. State police.

For shits and grins.. you can attach chains either side of head board on the bed and attach to vehicle. It's over kill. However if you get in an accident the car ain't going anywhere.

Straps should not pull forward on the front axle? Are you concerned about pulling the wishbone ball out?

I tow in a closed trailer. I attach two straps to the front axle, two to the rear. I put axle straps around the axles as close to the wheels as I can get them, pulling straight back or forward. I do not overtighten the straps - snug is good enough. I choose to attach to the axles because anything above the springs moves around too much. I also have a wood frame that slides onto the right front wheel so it is chocked front and back. I have hauled my T many thousands of miles in this manner without trouble.

In my opinion, the greatest stressor to your tiedown system comes during a panic stop, when the force is applied to the rear axle. If you drive conservatively, very little additional force is applied to the front axle. All I can say is that it has worked for me.

Steve

like a disruptive child in a classroom, I think it is for attention and the mayhem that ensues...it invariably brings out folks who don't read responses and simply provide help for a 3 year old already solved problem

someone is affirmatively working to register these things and then set them loose. One of the last ones had taken the name of a famous weirdo-kook well known in degenerate and Hollywood circles so it was obvious without reading the post that it was a phony.

It's pretty much mandatory these days to first look at the date of the request, before tearing into some sort of reply lest it be like this thread, where the respondent is helping out a 3 year old problem for a person who went their way long ago

There will almost certainly be a post following this one, obliviously offering more towing advice, never having read or glanced at any preceding posts...it's easy to do

And now we understand how easy it is to scam the elderly out of their life savings.

...I think it is for attention...

If "Adam Firechild" will come and help me remove enemy vegetation, fix roofs, lay in firewood for the winter, and rebuild bedrooms, I promise I will give him my full attention.

I find this topic very interesting. I am thinking about towing my car on an open trailer,. Safely securing the car to the trailer is one of my concerns. I didn't think about the hood and the cushions.

Art Mirtes

Towed a touring and a roadster pickup on a single trailer from Western Idaho to Roseburg Oregon with no problem. Remove any loose parts such as hoods , seat cushions and floorboards or weight them down as they may be blown off the vehicles. I also towed my roadster pickup on my single axle trailer from Roseburg Oregon to Spring Hill Florida. 3250 miles and no problems.
Straps are OK but on my things I prefer chains and binders but on a nice paint job you would want to use good padding under the chains.

Hey guys, why are you all responding to my message that’s “ 2 YEARS OLD “ !!! I’m sure there is a lot of important info out there that you can share. By the way the U-Haul works well, but I purchased a flat bed trailer after that.
Thanks for your advice on all other topics.

John
Oscoda Michigan

Apparently a "bot" or whatever that dredged up your old post. Wiser folks than I spotted it. The rest of us just rattled on as usual