MTFCA Forum

From our past old school methods from those way before us. Since a Model T is a steam release vented cooling system, way back in the day an old boy showed me this trick. With the head on and the water inlet plug off, use denatured alcohol filling past the head gasket region. Take a lighter where areas are suspected and all other areas watching for blue flames! Will be doing a light grinding on the bad areas with the engine in the vehicle and performing a cold solder method on those fractures. Similar to that of a dentist with lead fillings. If you have cracks in the valve regions, they will be wet too.


More to follow in days ahead.

Very interesting. Would you worry about the possibility of the flame traveling into the eingine?

No because they are only minute cracks and they act as a wick.

Hank

Well now we are ready for the repair techniques to begin. Please remember these are very old methods in the beginning from industrial tinsmith's and the likes there of. I have put a few added methods towards the end that have over the years works excellent.

After determining where the end of the crack ends from the alcohol wetness, I go an extra 1/8" pass that and drill an 1/8" hole but not all the way thru if at all possible. Following the crack with a die grinder which will reflect thru the fresh ground metal.

Now after a little flux and a propane touch to burn out impurity's and preheat just a bit, with a very hot iron do a pre tint with at least a 70/30 solder. You will get a tint to happen but it does take a very hot iron and it is going to cool quickly against that cast iron.., be patient. Multiple passes are required.

After all the pre tint has been accomplished, a semi cold soldering is now ready to happen. Remember.., semi cold soldering.
After this is done it is going to look like crap, but here is the good news. Small impacts to form the solder into place by means of punch and hammer in forcing the solder into shape. Multiple times are needed so be patient.

Multiple passes might be required in the cold soldering and then you make a very fast smoothing one, but remember to punch and hammer every time.

Remove any flux residue with an acetone about three times before high speed sanding.

Need one more pass, not good enough.

After all is done and sanded, I apply regular strength JB Weld and let set for 24 hours before shaping.

Thank you Hank for your tricks of the trade!

Hank, is the punch sharp or blunt? Very interesting method.

It is a blunt one Duey.

I can not stress this enough..., "Proper Prep"!!!!!! Acetone and acetone only in cleaning to get good adhesion. Three times before doing anything to the metal and three times cleaning after metal and soldering is done with a stainless steel tooth brush.

Now I come back with 60 grit and a small block of wood for support, shape as required, then go over with 120 grit. After masking off, blow more off and apply two very light coats of etching primer. when cured, in about an hour, from a distance with very light coats use the spray on bed liner. This may take three very light coats to achieve the desired texture. Let dry fully between coats! I have found out trial and error that only Dupli-Color works the best! Be patient!

As a bonus since this had oil around the solder in the front of the pan, I took an acorn grinding bit to the soldered area and applied JB Weld. Works well.

Also since it is using conventional fine thread nuts on the main bearings, Re-torque and a light grind with a bit, and apply JB Weld at least 190 degrees around the threads.

Nice repair Hank - you might check out "Belzona" epoxy - I've been using it for years on water jacket cracks & pitted exhaust ports.

NC Machinery/Caterpillar sells it.

Thanks Steve! Next one will give it a try!


Well.., Not even your Mother will know unless you tell her.

My mother knows everything. I dont have to tell her.

Some more simple tricks! Since time to time we need to remove the oil pan inspection plate and the transmission top cover, I normally use 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive or Permatex Ultra Black and glue one gasket to the pan/hoghead and another gasket to the metal cover plate. Give a light coat of Vaseline to marry the gaskets in the center and they do not leak and are reusable many times.


Using studs as a temporary alignment and assist for keeping the horse shoes in place.
Self sealing washers!

No leaks on the static check!




Caught someone working!

Thanks for sharing the ideas Henry,

Looks like a sleeper Hank. Better put the hood on for buggy racing. Dont want to scare em off.