MTFCA Forum

I would like to put a 14 radiator on a 23 frame, has anyone done this or can
it be done? Hose connections upper ,not line up, fan to large what is different
on the frames. Thanks

I imagine you can make the hose connections work as well as the mounting to the chassis. I think the big problem will be in the hood/firewall/hood former area.

I have the hood and former and firewall correct, would a low head be the difference in the space between the two hose connections.

Cylinder head outlet casting is different on a '23, brass radiators are lower, so the earlier casting is at a different angle. That's the only difference I'm aware of.

I have the hood and former and firewall correct, would a low head be the difference in the space between the two hose connections.

Thanks Rich that is what I was looking for. I think I will have to change the fan also, it hits the upper hose connector.

Sam

You will need to replace the fan bracket to the earlier "bent" one and put on a shorter fan belt. This might pull the later fan down to clear the radiator inlet. Note: the correct fan will have a smaller hub than the '23 fan. Not entirely sure what you're ultimately trying to accomplish, but the correct fan will also give you "the look" you're apparently looking for.

Also, going from '23 fan to early fan will require you to change the crank pulley from 3 3/4 dia to 3" dia in order to use the correct 23" fan belt, plus not overspeed the fan.

I had an 18 centerdoor that I put all brass on to make it look like a 15 and everything fit and lined up without any difficulty. I have before and after pictures if interested. When I wanted to sell it I had nothing but grief from the peanut gallery so I took everything back to original. When the buyers saw the pictures in brass dress they told me they wanted it like that but I was not about to go through all the work to put all the brass back on. It’s like our ladies, if they have brown hair they want red, if they have red they want blond and soforth. Go through the expense and the work to make it a brass and enjoy it. I did, but now I have a brass and not happy about polishing it but I do it since the end results make me happy. Frank

With a car that was pre-'20 you were 1/2 way there with earlier crank pulley and fan. Sam will have more issues than you did to back-date it. BTW I'll bet you care less what the peanut gallery says now than then. I know I do.

I really don"t care about the gallery or what they think, this is my car bought and paid for buy me not anyone else. That is what is so cool about a T, you can do what you want and enjoy it. I do have cars that are political correct but this project is a speedster so it does not matter. Thanks to all, it was a big help. Sam

Sam, My 14 speedster with a brass radiator has a 27 engine with a high head. The only things I changed on the engine were the outlet hose casting on the head and changed to the bent fan arm. I have a later fan pulley using an earlier style fan blade and the large crank pulley. After it was all in place I used a piece of string to measure the fan belt and bought the size I needed. It all works well.

There really are no issues with the frame as to mounting the radiator. , other than a few small holes for the hood shelf being in different locations , they are all the same as to function.

have fun and be safe .........

There was a fellow here in the Twin Cities that had a 1923 touring disguised as a 1915.

It was a very sharp looking car:

- brass radiator
- 1915-16 hood and hood former
- 1914 front fenders (no "bills" on the front)
- 1914 rear fenders (the 1914 front and rear fenders along with the 1923 body, slant windshield and one-man top in the down position made the car look racy and sleek)
- brass headlight rims
- brass sidelight and tail light rims (if I owned the car, I would delete the sidelights to make it look sleeker)
- 30 x 3.5 demountables with white tires